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Mobula 7 ELRS 1s - batteries
#1
I have a Mobula6 as well as an old 2S Mobula7 and have quite a few batteries.  About 20 300mah and 8 600/650mah.

I know the latest Mobula7 ELRS is 1s only and seems to be flown on 450mah mostly which appear to give 4-5 minute flight times.

Any reason why I can't use the ones I've got?  300mah should give around 2 1/2 minutes, maybe a tad more and the 600's may be a tight fit and touch heavier giving a trade off for the added mah.

I read somewhere that the lighter battery can lead to burnt motors, something to do with the PID tune, but I am not experienced enough to know if this is true, or a good enough pilot to notice the difference.
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#2
I have the Moblite 7 ELRS HDZero.

I am using GNB 650mAh HV 1S, which (oddly) are smaller than their 520mAh, same cross section, just shorter, in fact pretty much their 650 is the size of most 450's and not much difference in weight either.

I'm assuming you are pairing 1S 600/650's for the old 2S Mob7.  As long as they are not swollen, I'd expect they'd' fit OK, BUT be aware that I'm running the fly lead connector batteries to get the battery positioned centrally to balance more easily.

Not tried the Mob6 sized 300's but would have thought the smaller cross sectional area would limit the current able to flow too much.  

I'm running GNB 380mAh on my two Mob6's and my new Mob6 ELRS HDZero.

They do just about work on the Moblite7, but get hotter quicker than ideal, and they are a sloppy fit in the wider holder. Not a good idea.

With regard the Betaflight set up, Happymodel seem to have thrown out the recent 7's without a care in the world or even any kind of attempt at a decent tune.  The Moblite7 arrived with THREE profiles, all of them total  Poop .
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#3
Shouldn't make any difference which battery you use. I use 300's on my Meteor 75, 380's on my 2S quads. All you will get on a light battery is less flight time and less weight, so it will accelerate quicker, but be more floaty. You will lose the so called huckability, ie, you won't be able to blip the throttle and throw it into the air as much and you won't get the hangtime you might with a heavier battery. but then whoops aren't really meant to be thrown in the air like bigger quads, anyway.
Try Not, Do or Do Not
- Yoda

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#4
Ciottifpv (Micro king) does the whoop section of Bardwell’s (fpvknowitall list) and uses “folded cell” lipos with the BT 2.0 connector …
He is pretty much one of the authorizes on whoop components
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#5
quality of the cell is most important, there isnt spare performance in that size. its way better than in the past, battery performance has highest priority.
no 30c marked battery will ever touch my whoops xD


i fly a 17g 75mm whoop, with about 8g heavy nanotech/rline/gnb batteries, all 300mah. i only use the best batteries i kbow, i craft 1s lipos out of brand new nanotech packs, to get the power. i would like smaller batteries, but there arent any which has a close performance. i like performance flights, my batteries last at least for 2min on my kind of flight, i could do more than 5 minutes on slow cruising.

i would suggest 300mah 1s or max 450mah.

what kind of flight will you do?

as faster you go, bigger packs will give increase downsides. 450mah does match cruising well.
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#6
Finally got myself an ELRS Mobula7 and been setting it up tonight, flashing BF 4.4 to bind with my Boxer so I've had fun and games. BF 4.4 didn't like the 4.3 DIFF ALL so I started from scratch and block by block. Mostly configured and so now it's time to try the batteries and update the thread in case anyone is looking in...

The Gaoneng GNB 650mah fit just - very snug. They measure just under 17mm across, around 16.75 - 16.9mm

The Gaoneng GNB 600mah despite being a lower capacity do not fit - they are 17.45mm wide on average and just too snug to get into the frame. Specs call these out at 18mm wide.

I've got 4 of each. Odd and a bit frustrating.

My old Mobula 7 takes either so I could do a frame swap, or sell the 600's with the old Mobula7.

Has anyone heard of Dogcom batteries?
RM Boxer ELRS | Skyzone O30 | Mobula 6 ELRS | Mobula 7 ELRS | GepRC 3"
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#7
Yes. They get good reviews. A few YT ppl especially recommend the Dogcom BT2.0 Lipos. Personally they seem a bit expensive for me. I prefer CNHL and GNB. I picked up an 8 pack of PH2.0 1S 300mAh CNHL Lipos a couple of weeks back in one of their flash sales for about £14 UKP / $17 USD. I have a pack of BT2.0 connectors on order and will be converting them all over to that. At roughly $2 a Lipo I can live with it, even taking into account the hassle of changing them to a different connector.

You know how you have some 1S batteries that won't bit, why not build a 1S toothpick or twiglet on a 2" frame. The limitation of the build is you. if you want it to take wide batteries, then it will.

As for migrating BF across major versions, yeah it never works. I tried to go from 4.2 to 4.3 a while back on my Flea build and the number of variables that had changed between the two, specifically related to PID, made it nigh on impossible to migrate, not to mention the rx would not work no matter what I did. I went back to 4.2 and never looked back. I'm getting too old to care about building stuff from scratch, it's definitely a young persons game.
Try Not, Do or Do Not
- Yoda

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#8
My original Mobula 7, I'd run 450-650s both 1 & 2S with no problems. My 75 with the unibell 1S 802/19kvs can run all of those and gets great air time. My M6 with the same 802/19s gets close to 4 minutes on GnB 350 HVs, and the 450s & bigger don't fit the bay in the 65 BWhoop or Cockroach frame.. The 1S 75 gets pushing 7 minutes on the GnB 550s, and those are fairly thin and not overly wide. 

I know some people like them, but . . . I feel those BT Beta connectors are just another Beta scam at another proprietary something they try to push to force you to keep buying their products. If their batteries weren't low grade trash, they wouldn't need to try something to make them better . . . 

When they first came out, Nate did a comparison review of the BT connector vs solid pin PH2, which I've been using on my 1S f/cs for about four years, but for longevity originally. He had two 65s set up the same, except for the batts. He said the difference was like a "regular" batt most of us use, GnB, Crazypony vs one of the premium batts like Newbees Nitro Nectar. There's one helluve a price difference between the two for very little in return between those batteries, and no reason to spend a fortune changing all my PH2 quads and batteries . . . and chargers, or spend even more for PH2 adapters for them. 

Even MildlyUpset Don with his factory racing said he was sticking with the solid pin PH2s. I don't race competitively, and even playing around racing, would never be able to tell that small of a difference . . . and sure wouldn't pay that much more for the batts. The only point where those Beta plugs actually do marginally better by the numbers is at almost & full throttle, so unless you live with the throttle pegged . . . and I can't even say that, because Don gets paid to race, and doesn't think it gives him any advantage, and he's also very into and very knowledgeable about the electronics involved too.

I know there's people flying these things that can feel those little differences, and on a 65 Whoop, even a gram can start to change how the thing flies, but I would think for most flyers for most all of their flying, would be better off and get more enjoyment out of getting another ½ dozen PH2s than spending the $$ on the premium batteries . . . not even thinking about the BTs which cost more . . .  

It's good to have more choices, just for that fact alone, and also because there's so many different preferences in how we all fly, I sure hope everyone can find the right combo that works for them. I'm also not real fond of proprietary anything that limits my choices to just buying from one source, and that's getting a little greedy too . . . 

this hobby is already addicting . . . what more do they want from us ??
8^}

(11-Feb-2023, 01:15 AM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: quality of the cell is most important, there isnt spare performance in that size. its way better than in the past, battery performance has highest priority.
no 30c marked battery will ever touch my whoops xD


i fly a 17g 75mm whoop, with about 8g heavy nanotech/rline/gnb batteries, all 300mah. i only use the best batteries i kbow, i craft 1s lipos out of brand new nanotech packs, to get the power. i would like smaller batteries, but there arent any which has a close performance. i like performance flights, my batteries last at least for 2min on my kind of flight, i could do more than 5 minutes on slow cruising.

 

No you don't, you stick the whoop in the transporter, press the button & your there . . . 

That's crazy light for a 75 . . . a 65 . . . that thing has to scream . . . I don't think I could afford the collision insurance on it though . . . 8^}
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#9
I have the Mobula 7 1S ELRS and have made quite a few flights using a GNB 1S 850mAh battery and have had no problems. The extra weight makes it a little sluggish, but works ok for just cruising. 

I have a video in this thread flying on the 850mAh battery.
https://intofpv.com/t-mobula-7-1s-elrs-first-flight
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#10
(21-Apr-2023, 05:58 AM)brettbrandon Wrote: I have the Mobula 7 1S ELRS and have made quite a few flights using a GNB 1S 850mAh battery and have had no problems. The extra weight makes it a little sluggish, but works ok for just cruising. 

I have a video in this thread flying on the 850mAh battery.
https://intofpv.com/t-mobula-7-1s-elrs-first-flight

I did end up ordering a set of those 802/20s . . . those flight times were just way too tempting after seeing your vid, but I should've ordered two, I want to see how those do on a 65 . . . 5+ on that would be great!
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#11
(21-Apr-2023, 05:29 AM)Brian_OH Wrote: I know some people like them, but . . . I feel those BT Beta connectors are just another Beta scam at another proprietary something they try to push to force you to keep buying their products. If their batteries weren't low grade trash, they wouldn't need to try something to make them better . . . 

When they first came out, Nate did a comparison review of the BT connector vs solid pin PH2, which I've been using on my 1S f/cs for about four years, but for longevity originally. He had two 65s set up the same, except for the batts. He said the difference was like a "regular" batt most of us use, GnB, Crazypony vs one of the premium batts like Newbees Nitro Nectar. There's one helluve a price difference between the two for very little in return between those batteries, and no reason to spend a fortune changing all my PH2 quads and batteries . . . and chargers, or spend even more for PH2 adapters for them. 

Even MildlyUpset Don with his factory racing said he was sticking with the solid pin PH2s. I don't race competitively, and even playing around racing, would never be able to tell that small of a difference . . . and sure wouldn't pay that much more for the batts. The only point where those Beta plugs actually do marginally better by the numbers is at almost & full throttle, so unless you live with the throttle pegged . . . and I can't even say that, because Don gets paid to race, and doesn't think it gives him any advantage, and he's also very into and very knowledgeable about the electronics involved too.

I know there's people flying these things that can feel those little differences, and on a 65 Whoop, even a gram can start to change how the thing flies, but I would think for most flyers for most all of their flying, would be better off and get more enjoyment out of getting another ½ dozen PH2s than spending the $$ on the premium batteries . . . not even thinking about the BTs which cost more . . .  

It's good to have more choices, just for that fact alone, and also because there's so many different preferences in how we all fly, I sure hope everyone can find the right combo that works for them. I'm also not real fond of proprietary anything that limits my choices to just buying from one source, and that's getting a little greedy too . . . 
I'm with you there, I have retained PH2 solid pin and generally on a 65 use stick 380mAh GNB HV and on a 75 use flat 650mAh GNB HV single or paired for 2S on my personal quads.  NO WAY will I lock into a one source high cost lots of work "solution". Ease of availability, fair price, reliable life, decent construction......... GNB and PH2.  The alternative as tried offered at maximum 30 seconds more but with a considerable price hike, etc, not for me.
Incidentally the 100 plus racing micro hovercraft and 30 plus 65's I and my schoolboy members have had in service for six years in some cases and the 200 plus batteries (flat short rectangle 150 mAh to 220 mAh 1S) ALL have PH2. These batteries are totally abused, consistently run to under 3v, and some of them date back to the start.  The PH2 connectors extremely rarely fail, more a case of the boys rough treatment pulling the leads off or the pins out of the connector housing. The hovercraft run 3 minute long heats, and are based on Eachine E010/JJRC H36 65's.
So, that's a 35g model inc its maybe four/five year old 150mAh 1S cell racing for 3 mins with no undue sagging off or stopping on LVC, and with many times used PH2.  It does make one wonder about the fanaticism of some to remove what with us has been a reliable connector with a very long life and reliability.
YMMV folks!!    Big Grin
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#12
I've got cheap 1S batts before, "brand" names, even the HMs & URUAVs, that aren't worth their super cheap sale price I've bought them at. For my 1S, I usually stick with GnBs too, unless I can find the Crazypony batts, usually in the little bigger sizes, which are every bit as good, and usually noticeable lighter. I can pretty consistently get the GnB 350 HVs in a 6 pack for under, to well under $20 shipped on US EBay. The 380s are noticeably more expensive, and as much as I love my air time, the 30mAh isn't worth the price difference to me.

I do treat my 1S batts like krap, but also just consider them part of the cost to play. If I'm not already, when they seem to start losing time, I'll charge them up to HV, even if they're not . . . on a .1 charge . . . not too many that aren't HV anyway . . . when they start losing more, I start to look to see who's on sale, and have found the best batteries overall between the two . . . are the ones on sale when I want them.

Not premium batteries, but consistent and decent life . . . for the life they lead. I've spent more on a case of paintballs for an afternoon then I'd spend in 3-4 years on 1S batteries . . . toss 'em out, safely and responsibly of course, and get some new ones . . . 

I remember a few years back, couple guys from the UK, and other parts close by, all were saying they have a pretty limited choice in batteries locally/regionally, and the import ?? taxes/tariffs ?? you get charged also makes them really spensive to get from China/??

Old pic, little cluster of some Boldclash "pillow" batteries for the B03 batt bay, kinda middle left, and most of the 615 & 716 65 brushed Whoops at the time.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
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#13
Yes, battery choice in the UK seems pretty limited. A lot of local suppliers are out of stock of GNB and overseas won't ship to UK.
That narrows it down quite a lot.

Pathfinder,
Thanks for the feedback on the comments, good to know they are OK as DogCom are the cheapest I can find in stock right now, at £3.39 each for a 450mah 100C so not too bad as I'm looking at 4.
Nice logic to build an entire new quad around a few cheap batteries! I fly 90% indoors so it's whoop style for me, I don't need anything smaller (or any more quads right now)
Unfortunately I don't have the option to roll back BF since I want to be on 4.4 for ELRS but learning about setting it all up is half the fun!

I might give the DogComs a pop once I get up and flying with my existing 650s. Just frustrating the smaller capacity batteries are physically larger!
RM Boxer ELRS | Skyzone O30 | Mobula 6 ELRS | Mobula 7 ELRS | GepRC 3"
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#14
A while back someone somewhere mentioned that he'd been offered 100x Dogcom 1S 450 Lipos for some crazy price, like $150. Apparently they were looking for an in-country retailer. Obviously he got them. Think he ended up buying about 300 450mAh 1S whoop batteries in the end, all BT2.0 and spent about $300. But at the current prices, I find them too expensive in comparison to what you can get from CNHL. Also those cheapo Ministar CNHL Lipos are just very good. Don't let the 70C discharge rate fool you, they perform just as good as the GNB 90C Lipos that i also run. The limitation isn't the discharge rate, it's the size of the power wires. Bigger wires can address more amps.
Try Not, Do or Do Not
- Yoda

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