(03-Aug-2022, 03:18 AM)Janz99 Wrote: Ok, thanks Snow, I'll have to get an antenna ordered.  Is there any problem firing up the vista without one just to get everything setup and confirmed working?

The full size DJI Air Unit and Vista (aka Air Unit Lite) are some of the few VTX's on the market that actually have built in protection for being powered up without an antenna attached. The same goes for the DJI FPV Goggles. Added to that, the Vista only powers up at 0.5mW in low power mode (which is switched on by default) when it hasn't received an armed signal from an FC.

I've actually powered up one of my full size Air Units for a period of time by mistake when I was building a quad with one installed without realising I'd forgotten to connect any antennas to it  Then I was wondered why I was getting crappy video signal when I took the quad to another room in the house to test out the video link. But there doesn't seem to have been any adverse or detrimental effects from having done that and it works great.

So it's your call if you decide to power up your Vista without any antennas. If you want to err on the side of caution, any attached antenna is still better than no antenna as it will add resistance to the power circuit. So you could connect the ELRS antenna to the Vista just for setting it up the Vista. Obviously just be careful because the U.FL connector on the Vista can easily be ripped off if you try and pull the IPEX connect of the ELRS antenna off again at a funny angle afterwards so you want to be attaching and removing that as few times as possible.

Thanks guys! I'm not in a huge rush so I'll just wait until i have a chance to order an antenna before I power up the vista. Is there any particular one guys seem to like for tiny whoop builds?

I had an hour this morning to tinker so I got the motors wired up..... what a PITA that was lol. The first two I struggled with. By the third and forth I had a decent system down and they went pretty smooth. Hopefully power up the FC later tonight and start updating everything. I also need to update the ELRS on my other quad as I only have one transmitter, might as well update now so they are both on the latest firmware.

Nice Looking Whoop.    GOOD JOB  

(03-Aug-2022, 05:20 PM)iFly4rotors Wrote: Nice Looking Whoop.    GOOD JOB  

Thank you, hopefully it fly's as well as it looks lol.  

Surprise surprise, hurdle #1.....  connected the FC to my computer and everything looks good in BF.  I am trying to flash new ELRS firmware to the onboard receiver (UART based) but I can't seem to see it in my WIFI networks.  

I have tried on both my laptop and my phone, neither see the receiver.  The indicator light for the receiver does the usual fast blinking after 60 seconds showing it is in WIFI mode.

Any suggestions on where to start trouble shooting this one lol? There are no instructions or information on JHEMCU's website. 

You can try flashing via betaflight pass through:
https://oscarliang.com/setup-expresslrs-...assthrough

(04-Aug-2022, 05:31 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: You can try flashing via betaflight pass through:
https://oscarliang.com/setup-expresslrs-...assthrough

I was discussing this earlier with V-22 over on the ELRS discord.  He mentioned that he has the same board and that the WIFI signal on them is pour at best.  I ended up flashing via BF passthrough and everything is now working.  

I also got BF updated to 4.3.1, everything is now up to date and looks to be working well.  I just have to go through and make sure all the motors are turning the correct way now.

I just realized it was you on the ELRS Discord I was helping with this! For the benefit of anyone else with a JHEMCU GSF405A, here are a few things I've learned about this interesting but wacky in the way only JHEMCU can make FC:

1. The on-board WiFi for ELRS is horrible. I don't know how they messed up the design so badly, but most people will never get the WiFi to work and those that do will need to keep the FC within inches of their WiFi AP to get a connection. It's not worth it to try IMO. You're much better off flashing via Passthrough.

2. To flash ELRS via Passthrough, you may need to put the receiver into bootloader mode. For some reason, this requires holding down *both* buttons on the FC when you plug in USB. A pair of alligator clips comes in handy. After you do that, the correct target to flash is DIY_2400_RX_ESP8285_SX1280_via_BetaflightPassthrough.

3. Look carefully near the crystal between the SX1281 chip and the printed WiFi antenna to see if your FC has loading capacitors. If it does, it's highly recommended to remove them using small tweezers (they should just pop off) to avoid the XO offset issue described here: https://github.com/ExpressLRS/ExpressLRS...ency-Error
I have a few early FCs without the loading caps, but it looks like at least one revision included them.

In my case, the WIFI was not usable at all.  Non of my devices in the house would pickup the wifi network, even with it sitting on top of my phone lol.  I didn't need to push the bootloader buttons, however, I did need to shut down BF completely.  After that it updated via passthrough first try.

I attached a picture of my board, from the pictures you posted it looks like mine has the loading caps you mentioned.

V-22, after reading the article you had linked, is the main issue with the frequency error only during binding? Or is there other issues while flying/transmitting as well?

I'm wondering if I should try and fly the drone first before I start tearing at this FC. These parts are tiny and might be testing my dexterity to say the least trying to pull them off.

When offset between TX and RX is greater than 200kHz it won't bind, but the bigger issue is that the offset changes with temperature. So if you have a module and/or receiver that are borderline and the temperature changes during flight, it can be enough to drop the link. If you hop back on the Discord server someone can help you flash a debug firmware to check the frequency offset so you can decide whether it's worth it to remove the caps.

(05-Aug-2022, 03:23 AM)V-22 Wrote: When offset between TX and RX is greater than 200kHz it won't bind, but the bigger issue is that the offset changes with temperature. So if you have a module and/or receiver that are borderline and the temperature changes during flight, it can be enough to drop the link. If you hop back on the Discord server someone can help you flash a debug firmware to check the frequency offset so you can decide whether it's worth it to remove the caps.

I missed this last reply, sorry.  Ok, ill try and get to that in the couple of days here.

(05-Aug-2022, 03:23 AM)V-22 Wrote: When offset between TX and RX is greater than 200kHz it won't bind, but the bigger issue is that the offset changes with temperature. So if you have a module and/or receiver that are borderline and the temperature changes during flight, it can be enough to drop the link. If you hop back on the Discord server someone can help you flash a debug firmware to check the frequency offset so you can decide whether it's worth it to remove the caps.

This describes the behavior I had with a few failsafes pretty well.  The EP2 receiver was close to a VTX.   Thanks V-22!

Might be a dumb question, but how do you guys put props on/take props off with these friction fit props?

To remove- hold the bell with your thumb and a finger from underneath, use other hand to grab the prop and gently twist back and forth while pulling.

To put on- push down with your thumb. Can support bell from underneath as well if you’re concerned about it.

If it just doesn’t want to go on- double check that your not trying to push a prop with a 1mm hole onto a 1.5mm shaft.

For prop removal you can also use one of these prop levering tools which usually come supplied with some BNF whoops...

https://pyrodrone.com/products/betafpv-p...moval-tool