Hey xcalibur thank you for your comment!  I may have to venture to the f.port side if I ultimately revert back to betaflight.  I’m going to give butterflight a try and haven’t read up on compatibility to f.port but assume it’s a betaflight exclusive considering the collaboration w frsky.  However i’d Imagine it was just that, a collaboration, and we could expect this to be integrated into the other major FC firmware  developers.   Based on your enthusiasm and the fact I didn’t want to leave any useful feature off the table aside from 32k/32k pid loops on the f7 etc. I suspect I’ll convert over!

Is there some sort of international restriction on shipment of the conformal coating?  If not I could possibly help you out .  Let me know!

I don’t expect to waterproof it but at the very least give it some water/corrosion resistance and protect against potential shorts/arcing if things get moved around in a crash.  That’s my theory anyway

Now to finish that build.... I forgot about a buzzer so I picked up this one:



Regarding using Smart Audio with a mic, is there is there a specific wattage to look for? Assume ceramic for lowest esr?  I just googled below but have no idea what is right as there appears to be nearly zero info online or on YouTube on how or what to actually use:

100nf capacitor 


4k7 resistor


1k8 resistor




What a nightmare haha

Thanks again!

BUF is basically BF 3.3, so F. Port will work.

That’s great news voodoo! Guess I’ll have to flash it through the taranis using the supplied servo conector?  I know, so many questions, I have no electrical background and don’t want to fry it up on the first test haha.



Thank you as always,

Mark

That's the correct cable for flashing. A lot of people don't know that and end up using it for wiring. What TX do you have? Taranis you will use JR port. Q7X you will use port at bottom of TX.

You don't need PWM beeper. Too expensive. Just buy 5V active buzzer. Cost about $1 each.
10pcs 3V 5V Active Electric Buzzer for Arduino Naze32 CC3D F4 Flight Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYL2QS/ref...0Ab0KM3BD7

As for electronic components voltage rating, the voltage is so low, any rating will do. Just keep the component small. If you have the soldering skills, you can even use SMD components.

(13-Apr-2018, 02:43 AM)voodoo614 Wrote: That's the correct cable for flashing. A lot of people don't know that and end up using it for wiring. What TX do you have? Taranis you will use JR port. Q7X you will use port at bottom of TX.

Great news! I have watched so many videos that I’ve seen how to flash the receiver but just didn’t want to deal with it... haha.  Information overload.  In my OP I noted all my components however I am using the x9d plus w hall gimbals.  I assume that’s in the back port where you connect crossfire mini tx?

smd 



Hmmmm 

I think I’ve got the right equipment, as far as skills 

Thank you!

https://oscarliang.com/flash-frsky-rx-firmware/

Yes, back of Taranis.

If you don't want to deal with wiring for TBS, you can get a Tramp, Matek or Lumenier VTX. They have separate wiring for controls and audio.

Well no of course not, I am sticking with my purchase and want to find a solution. Based on your input it seems my googling efforts were leading me in the right direction. My concern is making sure polarity is correct when wiring the capacitor/resistors. Regarding the Surface Mount Devices I wonder what surface I would mount them to? Lol

(13-Apr-2018, 12:05 AM)MarkII Wrote: Regarding using Smart Audio with a mic, is there is there a specific wattage to look for? Assume ceramic for lowest esr?  I just googled below but have no idea what is right as there appears to be nearly zero info online or on YouTube on how or what to actually use:

100nf capacitor 
4k7 resistor
1k8 resistor




What a nightmare haha

Thanks again!

As far as I know, film caps are better than ceramic for audio
These are the cheapest i can find:
https://amzn.to/2HyYVLa
They don't care about polarity so you can connect it either way.

About resistors, no need to worry about wattage in our case. Resistors that have wattage rating are usually for high power, high current applications.
1K8 resistor: https://amzn.to/2quklAZ (can't find this value in most resistor assortment kit, so you might have to buy these separately)
4K7 resistor: https://amzn.to/2ISzjID (available in assortment kit, better value than buying them individually)
Resistors don't care about polarity ether.

This is perfect!! Thank you Oscar!

And PS, I just realized my power leads are using a female connector.... same thing on all my batteries hahah. Back to soldering..

Update: just picked up a ton of capacitors/resistors for the microphone circuit and while I was at it got some 1000uf 35v Panasonic fm capacitors for some noise filtering. Hopefully that’s the last of it!

Thanks again!

So I’ve got the circuit complete however I’m unsure where to wire the power, ground and SA ground.

Rewired the Lipo leads:
 

Mic + SA circuit:






I know it was mentioned to solder directly to the vtx however it’s such a small area I’m not sure I can do so accurately.  Do I solder directly to the solder joints on the FC?

Thanks for your help as always!

Mark

Where it says UART, that is the FC UART TX you pick. Where it says Smartaudio, that is on the VTX Smartaudio. Ground can go to any ground.

Understood and sorry for the confusion, but at the pin connector ON the FC or ON the pin connector of the vtx board or spliced into the wire. There are three potential connection points for 3 open wires leaving me with 9 possible configurations. (Did I remember my grade school math right? ). Note that my VTX is already wired to the Uart and video/power/ground/ground.

The mic audio with cap can go anywhere on SA wire as long as it is after the 4.7k resistor. Same goes for the ground with 1.8k resistor.

(19-Apr-2018, 12:51 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: The mic audio with cap can go anywhere on SA wire as long as it is after the 4.7k resistor. Same goes for the ground with 1.8k resistor.

Yes but that part is complete, I have a ground wire coming from audio line from vtx and after the 1.8k resistor.  The SA line is coming from the audio line before the 1.8k resistor to the cap then to the mic, exactly like the diagram.  Now I’m left with power from mic, ground from mic, and ground from 1.8k resistor.  These three wires need a home so I’m curious if I use the same exact loacations on the Matek F405 to wire the open wires. Or do I wire them straight to the VTX.  I’m thinking to the matekf405 and solder directly to the board where my other vtx connections are soldered.

Apologies for below as I used my phone to mark up the picture:



I don’t have the mic power and mic ground wired to the mic yet but it would be those two open prongs w the circled “GND” wire that I’m referring to