Does anyone know the part number, or an equivalent alternate part number, for the 4 pushbutton switches on the iCharger 106B ?

I have two pre-owned chargers that I've been using for about 5 years now.  When I first got them I noticed why they were sold - the switches were starting to become intermittent.  Well, fast forward to today and they're pretty bad.  I've charged hundreds of packs through them - they are great 250W chargers.  I just want to replace those darn switches.

Any help would be appreciated.  If not I'll just try the brute-force method. I emailed Junsi but not sure if they'll respond with info like this.

Did you take off the cover to look inside? I believe many devices simply have a momentary switch soldered onto the PCB. If that is the case then a same sized SMD momentary switch with the same height profile should work. Otherwise if your buttons are mushy and don't make the hard "click" sounds, it could be using those soft silicone membranes, in which case sometimes its possible to recoat the conductive part on the bottom that may have worn down.

I did open one up - they're individual 4-pin tact switches, through hole, with bent/spring/snap-in leads, so I'll have to cut them and de-solder each pin individually.

I'll have to remove these chargers from service for a while, take some measurements of these switches and see what Digikey has to offer. Seemed like these switch failures were common on this model charger for some reason. Just checking to see if anyone already knows what the replacement switch is.

Something like this, the small-tiny version:


There's so many variations ... I've been putting this off for a while ... lazy I guess. Have to match up size/height/dia./shaft, PCB footprint, pinouts, N.O./N.C., etc.

Yup, there will be probably a few thousand different models, but the key is the height of the pushbutton. Although you can always just glue or cut it to fit, but its easier if you get the right spec.

Or if you want bigger buttons, just make yourself an external switch panel, probably easier to solder up as well as you can just run wires to the PCB. So many options

Nice! I was actually thinking of something like that - but yours is way more industrial & rugged ! I could 3d print a little panel/housing and low cost PCBs are just a JLC order away.

Either way I think I have to detach a FET or regulator that’s attached to the bottom plate and smothered in heat sink compound.

Looks like this will fit ...



33,000+ in stock. Ordered a couple dozen to play with.

I have a reluctant button on my 106b as well. I was afraid to undo the thermal interface stuck to the fets on the bottom side. When I pried at it I thought the fet legs might break off. I guess you could cut the buttons off and tack a new one on top if worse comes to worse.

I pried mine off and there’s like 3-4 components with a sticky thermal compound. Once one started to let go the rest followed with much less force.

I’m going cut the switches out from the top, then hopefully be able to heat and remove the pins then clean the holes. I think

Switches were supposed to arrive yesterday but there appears to be a USPS issue.

I saw a video where they lay down a thick copper wire core and bridge the pins, so then you can heat multiple pins simultaneously to lift components. They made it look really easy...

Maybe try bridging the two pins on the side that have nice wide open space, then you can lift just that one side by tilting up the switch? The pins on the other side should hopefully bend easily enough to accomdate that?

Interesting technique. I was thinking of trying to get each one out in one piece, but all of them are very intermittent, at least on this charger. On my 2nd charger they're not AS bad, but those will get replaced too. The third one is a 206B and apparently those weren't built with a 'bad batch' of switches like the 106Bs were (?)

These switches are like 20 cents from Digikey so sweat in chopping up a few bad ones

Welp - filled out a bunch of on-line forms with USPS the other day to try and find out where the package is.

Then today, got an email today saying package is undeliverable because of incorrect address, and to fill out this form to correct and re-schedule delivery.

After inspecting the sender's email address it was apparent it did not come from USPS.

I almost fell for it too - G-DAMN scammer bastards !

Finally!  USPS located the package  And delivered it too

Used the ol' Radio Shack solder sucker.  Clipped the switches out, and the sucker inhaled the solder with the remaining pin.
Helps a lot if you disconnect the fan.  And remember to re-connect it, but the wires can interfere with the rotating blades so they must be folded rather flat before final assembly.
Also helps if you straighten out the pins on the new switches - they slide in a little easier then.

Perfect Fit! Even the little button tops fit (and the one I 3D printed cuz I melted one - oops, long story)

So far, so good.  Works like a new charger.  I'll keep an eye on it a little closer for the first few charge cycles.