Soldered the wires to show BAT voltage in OSD and it worked but now throttle goes to full a few seconds after arming or immediately after touching throttle stick.

I soldered ESC VCC to FC BAT and ESC ground to the same ground on the FC that has the UBEC ground on it (next to 5V). Could my soldering be causing the throttle problem? It was flying well before this.

One prop was slightly bent down but I've flown with worse props.

FC is orientated correctly, calibrated ESC's. Doesn't do it in betaflight props off. Transmitter modes work correctly. What else? All I changed was adding the VCC and GROUND wires.

When you spin individual motor in BFC, does it spins the correct motor. It is common for you to short two motor wires. Check that the connector pins are not bent.

(08-Aug-2020, 06:47 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: When you spin individual motor in BFC, does it spins the correct motor. It is common for you to short two motor wires. Check that the connector pins are not bent.

Yea everything seems to work as it should when in BF.

There seemed to be a problem with ESC calibration. I had chosen DSHOT300 as instructed when using RPM filtering but I wasn't getting the final beebs when calibrating and motors wouldn't spin up either unless I disconnected and unpluggeg/replugged. Changed to DSHOT600 and now calibration went as it should.

Stupid question but can I even use DSHOT300 with this setup since this ESC is DSHOT600?

Need to wait for prop shipment to test it again since last set of front props disintegrated today when it spun up the motors on the ground and tipped over

You don't need to calibrate your esc if you use dshot. Esc calibration does nothing unless you use an analog esc protocol like oneshot or multishot.

And yes, you can use dshot300 or dshot150 on dshot600 esc.

(08-Aug-2020, 07:15 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: You don't need to calibrate your esc if you use dshot. Esc calibration does nothing unless you use an analog esc protocol like oneshot or multishot.

And yes, you can use dshot300 or dshot150 on dshot600 esc.

Oh ok I'll just wait for more props and hope it was a glitch of some sorts. Although I did try 3 times and it happened everytime.

Remembered I had increased idle to 5.5 after last succesfull flight (saw it recommended somewhere). Dropped that back down to 2.0 (stock setting for tyro129 is 1.5) and did a test to hover (with bi-blades infront, tri-blades in the back, it's all I had ) and it went fine. Could that have been it?

The dshot idle does not applies if you were running oneshot. And on Dshot, the higher number actually works better in most cases, especially for sluggish motors. So it is not the reason for your problem.

(09-Aug-2020, 07:07 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: The dshot idle does not applies if you were running oneshot. And on Dshot, the higher number actually works better in most cases, especially for sluggish motors. So it is not the reason for your problem.

Have it on DSHOT300 now. Well what ever the problem was it's gone now. Still need to do a proper test flight though, to see if it still flys ok after the three full throttle smacks on asphalt. Thanks for the help again!

Going to the Lofoten archipelago in Norway for a week soon, so if all is well with the quad will get to fly in pretty landscapes and see what kind of range I can get. I've got a Flysky i6x with 2W booster+X6B and 4s 3300mah batteries. I've had it 1km out without the booster. GPS rescue works, so no worries about losing video or RX signal.

Sounds good

Might as well ask this here too. But first a thank you to this forum! I've got it flying pretty nice now and feeling safer flying with the BAT voltage in OSD.

Then the question.

Is it possible to give advice based on this video about how to get rid of the last bit of vibrations/jello? BF 4.1.1 with RPM filtering. Props HQ 7x4x3. Keep in mind I've crashed it a few times and all motors sound and feel a bit rough at this point. Could it be that tuning might not help anymore and I just gotta get new motors?



Tuned it following the advice given here + the RPM filtering.



Pids and other settings:

https://ibb.co/bH98PBj
https://ibb.co/crtV6Rw
https://ibb.co/FqJn2bL
https://ibb.co/QJ2T93d

The first thing you need to check is whether your GoPro camera mount is not the cause. Meaning, you are seeing the same jello in the FPV feed.

Usually oscillation is too low or too high P or D. Your D look quite high and your P looks low.

Check out PID tuning for Dummies video on YT. It is quite good.

For reference, this is the video that Voodoo is talking about...

(12-Aug-2020, 10:50 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: The first thing you need to check is whether your GoPro camera mount is not the cause. Meaning, you are seeing the same jello in the FPV feed.

Usually oscillation is too low or too high P or D. Your D look quite high and your P looks low.

Check out PID tuning for Dummies video on YT. It is quite good.

Comparing the two videos, check.
And if same oscillations are present in both videos, change P and D and see what that does, check.

Camera mount has a maybe 5mm thick sticky pad, so that should give some damping but it is also tightened down with a screw and I guess vibrations could get through that way.

Thanks!

(12-Aug-2020, 11:44 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: For reference, this is the video that Voodoo is talking about...

Thanks, I'll study this!

Don't have time right now to learn pid tuning properly since leaving for Norway on sunday so "cheated" and put Albert Kim's tyro 129 pids on. They are towards what was talked about here and I can actually say that now I know what people mean when they say their quad feels "locked in".
For example yesterday even in straight forward flight it would slowly pitch up with centered left stick. That went away completely. Holds its line better in every way.

Same vibration still there in HD video and hard to say if I saw it in FPV feed. So maybe it's the mount or the motors need replacing. In any case, it flies even better now so thanks again!