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First Micro Build
#1
Wink 
Hi everyone!

I'm really new to this site so if you have not known about me yet go for my intro at the Welcome To The Forum page.


Since the weather here in São Miguel is somewhat rude (Sunny by the morning and then one hour later can be raining a lot) it's really hard to have the time for flying, even worse when you can fly only after work. So my best bet to keep learning to fly better and spend time around this hobby is to build something I can fly indoors.


I've been thinking about getting a Woop but I can't find any EU based store that has one in stock for a reasonable price.

Bear in mind that I'm in a budget, please.


So if there's a way to build a Woop please refer to it, otherwise my goal is to present with pieces one at the time and get your feedback or another piece that for any reason you think it's better.


Let's start with the base: The Frame!
I've done little research but what i've come up so far was with this one:
Awesome E90
https://www.banggood.com/pt/Awesome-E90-...rehouse=CN


I know that with that frame it's a risk to fly indoors but since my other hobby is 3D Printing I think there's a way to override that with propeller guards or something around that.
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#2
I have an Emax baby hawk that I fly around the house. They are very reasonable price and comes with everything ready to fly except the TX. You probably can't build one cheaper.

https://www.banggood.com/EMAX-Babyhawk-8...k4QAvD_BwE
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#3
I agree with VooDoo.



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#4
Will it fly outside too if I want/need to?
I'm skeptical about how well it can manage light winds, etc..
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#5
Light winds up to 5-7 you would be fine....



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#6
It will handle light wind. But the reality is, you get something too powerful, you will never be able to fly it indoor.


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#7
I'm getting the feeling that maybe 2.5 is to much for indoor, right?
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#8
(03-Nov-2018, 09:35 AM)brnmd Wrote: I'm getting the feeling that maybe 2.5 is to much for indoor, right?

I feel it really depends on your indoors.  With light inputs and prop guards, hovering around inside a house is not to bad.  These 2.5" craft can have a lot of power though and keeping them sane is tight quarters can be a tall call Smile

My 2" Eachine Lizard 95 is not that much bigger and it handles winds of 10 knots just fine.
SoCal Kaity :D
OMG, no one told me it would be this much fun!  Addicted :)
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#9
It has come to my attention the Crazybee Snapper7. But I'm having second doubts that I can't find a consensus and that is about FrSky Eu compatibility and if there's any UART available.
In Crazybee's website I can find a RX3 and TX3 availabe but it says that it's not compatible with EU FrSky Radios.

[Image: FR-bottom.jpg] 
http://www.happymodel.cn/wp-content/uplo...bottom.jpg

Anyone with one of these that can enlighten me?
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#10
If you have an EU-LBT radio then you can bind the Crazybee F3 flight controllers in D8 mode. I have the same FC in my Eachine UK65 whoop and it works just fine with my EU-LBT FrSkyTaranis X9D Smile
[-] The following 1 user Likes SnowLeopardFPV's post:
  • brnmd
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#11
(04-Nov-2018, 01:40 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: If you have an EU-LBT radio then you can bind the Crazybee F3 flight controllers in D8 mode. I have the same FC in my Eachine UK65 whoop and it works just fine with my EU-LBT FrSkyTaranis X9D Smile

Is there any UART available as picture in the previous image?
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#12
What are you wanting to use an external UART for?

The Crazybee F3 FC only has UART3 available. On my Eachine UK65 Whoop this is configured to use TBS SmartAudio. If you don't care about telemetry then you can re-purpose UART3 for something else and solder whatever hardware you want to the TX3/RX3 pads instead.

[Image: f6Pn0kW.jpg]
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#13
(04-Nov-2018, 12:43 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: What are you wanting to use an external UART for?

The Crazybee F3 FC only has UART3 available. On my Eachine UK65 Whoop this is configured to use TBS SmartAudio. If you don't care about telemetry then you can re-purpose UART3 for something else and solder whatever hardware you want to the TX3/RX3 pads instead.

[Image: 6iqy45.jpg]

Since I will definitely fly with friends, changing the VTX/Camera combo to one with tramp or smartaudio is a must. At least is what I think so far.
But I can be wrong on that.
My other option is to get another whoop instead of the Snapper7, like a Mobula7 or a Tinyhawk.
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#14
(04-Nov-2018, 01:00 PM)brnmd Wrote: Since I will definitely fly with friends, changing the VTX/Camera combo to one with tramp or smartaudio is a must. At least is what I think so far.
But I can be wrong on that.
My other option is to get another whoop instead of the Snapper7, like a Mobula7 or a Tinyhawk.

I should probably have made it a bit clearer in my last post. The SmartAudio wire of the VTX/Camera on the UK65 is connected to the TX3 pad. So if you are wanting to use this pad for Tramp or SmartAudio telemetry from the VTX/Camera then the UART3 pads are exactly what you use to do that, which means the Crazybee F3 will cater for your needs.

The Mobula7 uses a Crazybee F3 Pro which also only has one usable UART (again, UART3) which is again used for SmartAudio/Tramp to the VTX/camera. I haven't looked into what FC the Tinyhawk uses so I don't know offhand what UART resources that has available.

If you're intending on flying both indoors and outdoors then you might be advised to look at the Mobula7 because you can run it in both 1S and 2S configuration. 2S can be a bit of a handful for indoor flying (depending on how big your house is) so you can use 1S for indoor flying and 2S when you need a bit more power outdoors.

CurryKitten has done a good review on it below. If you watch right to the end you will see how to configure the Mobula7 to use a 1S setup.

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#15
SnowLeopardFPV I know but stock Camera/VTX on the Snapper7 doesn't support Smartaudio/Tramp and based on reviews i find it to be better.
Best course of action is to change that Camera/VTX combo, right?
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