I got a Babyhawk 2 for my first quad. I crashed it. Somehow it broke the little tab at the front of my esc where the negative (black) power is connected. Maybe a flying bit of propeller? Anyway, there is no power. I plugged it into my pc via the usb port and it still connects to betaflight, just no power.

Here's a generic image of the esc, the capacitor (I think it's a capacitor) and the black wire and a tiny bit of the esc are all still welded together but broke off from everything else.

https://cdn.getfpv.com/media/catalog/pro...0x1000.jpg

I'm guessing I have to replace the esc. I tried soldering it back to where it goes, but I mostly think I accomplished in burning plastic. Now I'm thinking maybe there's an alternate place to solder on the negative terminal and see if I can get it that way. How would I go about finding a spot like that if one exists?

Can you still see the pad on the flight controller where that negative power lead was attached to? (could you post a pic of where is came off)
Look on the bottom of the board as well if you can, as it looks like there is a small negative pad on the bottom as well, it may be able to be soldered back on the bottom.

It would need to be soldered back on that pad. But you said a piece of the flight controller itself broke off and is still connected to the black wire. If that pad has broken off then the board may need to be replaced with a new one.

Since it's ground it should be tied to other grounds throughout the board. Maybe even the USB connector is tied to ground that you could solder it back to. This is where a multimeter set to resistance (or continuity) would help.

I’m with servo…one thing u can count on with fpv… your soldering kills WILL be tested and improve..
Post a pic, if it’s only the negative pad, “yes” you should be able to relocate the negative to any negative pad…

If I understand you, the Vbat negative broke off.

Not all grounds are same.
Typically USB side is isolated through Schottky diode.
Its what allows you to power board with USB, plug in Vbat and not fry anything.

The #1 ground pad is the shunt resistor for current sensing. Alternatively, the big filter capacitors.

Thanks for the help everyone. There was no pad to solder to on the bottom of the board. I soldered the wire to something else that seemed like ground (based on continuity) and I got the boot-up beep codes. I'm down to 2 props after the crash so I'll order some new ones and see if she flies. Again, thanks for the help.

Re "not all grounds are the same" that makes some sense. Hard to parse most of what you are saying. I don't understand the following:
- #1 ground pad,
- shunt resister for current sensing
- big filter capacitor, and
- if "not fry anything" refers to not frying anything on the ESC or not frying my computer on the other end of the USB plug.

Maybe using a usb hub will be enough to keep any unwanted voltage from frying my computer if that's what the potential problem is. Again not sure I'm understanding you very well. You might have to dumb it down a bit more. I'm guessing what I need to do is hold a multi-meter up to the usb connector (I'm guessing the usb shield is ground) and to the red wire and hook up a battery and make sure the voltage flowing is less like 16 volts and more like 5 volts. Sound about right?

Quote:I'm guessing what I need to do is hold a multi-meter up to the usb connector (I'm guessing the usb shield is ground) and to the red wire and hook up a battery and make sure the voltage flowing is less like 16 volts and more like 5 volts.

I tried that and got 16 volts. I figure that's a problem and I need to not hookup to betaflight while the battery is plugged in. Which I probably am okay with.

It's flying again. Thanks everyone.

(30-Aug-2021, 03:26 PM)Peccator Wrote: Thanks for the help everyone. There was no pad to solder to on the bottom of the board. I soldered the wire to something else that seemed like ground (based on continuity) and I got the boot-up beep codes. I'm down to 2 props after the crash so I'll order some new ones and see if she flies. Again, thanks for the help.

Re "not all grounds are the same" that makes some sense. Hard to parse most of what you are saying. I don't understand the following:
- #1 ground pad,
- shunt resister for current sensing
- big filter capacitor, and
- if "not fry anything" refers to not frying anything on the ESC or not frying my computer on the other end of the USB plug.

Maybe using a usb hub will be enough to keep any unwanted voltage from frying my computer if that's what the potential problem is. Again not sure I'm understanding you very well. You might have to dumb it down a bit more. I'm guessing what I need to do is hold a multi-meter up to the usb connector (I'm guessing the usb shield is ground) and to the red wire and hook up a battery and make sure the voltage flowing is less like 16 volts and more like 5 volts. Sound about right?

glad you got it flying!!

Not all gnd = same. Because USB circuit is separate... LOL. You solder to USB ground = fire.

On back ESC side of AIO, next to battery pads, there is silver rectangle with R50 written.

This is shunt resistor. Its used to measure current/power.

Its BIG. One side us always gnd.