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F4 NOXE FLIGHT CONTROLLER WITH BAROMETER
#1
I purchase the F4 Noxe Fight Controller the one with the Barometer but it doesn't have no battery input how do i wire this Flight Controller up and the Makerfire 4 in 1 ESC that's going to be connected to this Flight Controller doesn't have a BEC some help would be appreciated thanks.

[Image: F4-Noxe-FC.png]
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#2
This flight controller can take 2-6S. From the diagram, you will supply lipo voltage from the 4in1 straight to the port along with the esc signal. 


[Image: kv286dRl.png]
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#3
(19-Jan-2019, 08:44 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: This flight controller can take 2-6S. From the diagram, you will supply lipo voltage from the 4in1 straight to the port along with the esc signal. 


[Image: kv286dRl.png]
Thanks but that's what i did before i post this thread looking for help on the forum i plug the wires that came with Flight Controller to the Flight controller then to the ESC then i plug the lipo in the esc makes sounds but the Flight Controller doesn't power on.
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#4
Make sure the pin order is correct. Just because you have plug that fits, does not mean the wiring is correct. Post your ESC and the connector.
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#5
[Image: 2NvhZ6Jl.jpg]

Check the pin on the port to the right of the negative pin. Use a DMM, and see if you get a voltage.
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#6
(20-Jan-2019, 06:59 AM)voodoo614 Wrote: [Image: 2NvhZ6Jl.jpg]

Check the pin on the port to the right of the negative pin. Use a DMM, and see if you get a voltage.
[Image: IMG-586.jpg]

I'm not getting no voltage on the last pin, i found out the sticker that is place on this 4 in 1 ESC stating that positve is on the right which is the last pin is wrong. And i'm not getting voltage on the correct pin that is suppose to be supplying voltage i check the regulator i get input voltage of 8.01V and on the out put pin it starts from 0.16v counting down to 0.00.

The people at makerfire didn't pay attention to they're own product or who ever assemble these ESC fucked up how could they label something so important wrong.
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#7
(20-Jan-2019, 09:26 PM)MicroFn Wrote: I'm not getting no voltage on the last pin, i found out the sticker that is place on this 4 in 1 ESC stating that positve is on the right which is the last pin is wrong. And i'm not getting voltage on the correct pin that is suppose to be supplying voltage i check the regulator i get input voltage of 8.01V and on the out put pin it starts from 0.16v counting down to 0.00.

I'm a bit confused TBH. Your photo is clearly showing the last pin marked as GND on the silkscreen. This matches up with both the schematic in the documentation and also the image as posted earlier in the thread by Voodoo.

And I'm not really sure I understand what you are trying measure where you say you're getting 8.01V, 0.15V and 0V. With a LiPo connected to the ESC, if you set your multimeter to 20V DC range then put the black lead on the GND pin of that white connector, and the red lead on the next pin along, what voltage reading to do you get?
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#8
I am afraid that the non-silkscreen pin isn't supplying a voltage.

I suggest you do what Snow mentioned, which is what I am trying to get you to do. Even if the pins were missed labels, if you get voltage, it will just be negative.
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#9
I think I see the OP's confusion

[Image: uGCGwEGl.jpg]

Microfn

The big Plus and minus signs are to indicate the lipo connection.  The little marks right above the connector are for the connector.

Or maybe that is not what he is confused about ?

Scott
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#10
I want OP to measure these two pins. 


[Image: jnX9Qarl.jpg]
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#11
(21-Jan-2019, 01:08 AM)Scott_M Wrote: I think I see the OP's confusion

[Image: uGCGwEGl.jpg]

Microfn

The big Plus and minus signs are to indicate the lipo connection.  The little marks right above the connector are for the connector.

Or maybe that is not what he is confused about ?

Scott
The label on the ESC is wrong the last pin is GRN it says it right under the label i made an arrow pointing to it but anyway i don't like putting my Negative and Positive probe close to each other because these pins are so close to each other but i did just to see if i get a different result i usually put my Negative probe on the Negative lipo pad but i got the same result after i did it the different way still zero's no volts.

And the voltage regulator shows 8.01V on the input pin and on the output pin the DMM measures 0.16V then the volts persist to drop till it reach 0.00, it's this slow count down it does.
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#12
Yes the last pin is ground. And it actually probably labeled on the silkscreen and ESC sticker. The red plus is meant for the lipo pad.

Are you getting 0V when you have neg probe on neg pad and positive probe on 2nd pin in?

I am not sure what you mean by 8.01V on voltage regulator? What regulator are you referring to?
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#13
(21-Jan-2019, 02:28 AM)voodoo614 Wrote: Yes the last pin is ground. And it actually probably labeled on the silkscreen and ESC sticker. The red plus is meant for the lipo pad.

Are you getting 0V when you have neg probe on neg pad and positive probe on 2nd pin in?

I am not sure what you mean by 8.01V on voltage regulator? What regulator are you referring to?


That  ESC do not have BEC ( regulated 5v out )
so you canot power your FC from it

this is what the Makerfire ESC webpage says

Makerfire BLHeli-S 4-in-1 12A ESC 2-3s Lipo Electric Speed Controller Support Dshot 150/300/600 for FPV Racing Drone Multirotor

Specification:
Item: BLHELI-S 4-in-1 12A ESC
Con.Current: 12A
Peak Current(10s): 15A
BEC: NO
Lipo: 2-3S
Programming: YES
Weight: About 7.5g
Size(PCB): 27*27mm
M3 mounting hole:20mm x 20mm



so the header is for the motor signal coming from the FC
also make a note that the pins are not in order (4,3,2,1) on the ESC circuit board, but on the diagram from Makerfier it is, 

so make sure you wire the right pins from the FC to the righ pins in the ESC
most of the time you need to unhook the wire from the conncector to swap the pins

test your motors 1st with no props to see if you got the right order

[Image: 12A_ESC_Makerfire_1_1800x1800.jpg?v=1573398496]
I only know that i know nothing 
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#14
solder the second wire, for voltage, directly to vbat, were the lipovoltage comes in.
there is no voltage labeled forbthe conector, you should mesure, but solder directly to vbat wiuld work anyway.
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#15
(12-Nov-2019, 08:42 PM)rolo95 Wrote: That  ESC do not have BEC ( regulated 5v out )
so you canot power your FC from it

this is what the Makerfire ESC webpage says

Makerfire BLHeli-S 4-in-1 12A ESC 2-3s Lipo Electric Speed Controller Support Dshot 150/300/600 for FPV Racing Drone Multirotor

Specification:
Item: BLHELI-S 4-in-1 12A ESC
Con.Current: 12A
Peak Current(10s): 15A
BEC: NO
Lipo: 2-3S
Programming: YES
Weight: About 7.5g
Size(PCB): 27*27mm
M3 mounting hole:20mm x 20mm



so the header is for the motor signal coming from the FC
also make a note that the pins are not in order (4,3,2,1) on the ESC circuit board, but on the diagram from Makerfier it is, 

so make sure you wire the right pins from the FC to the righ pins in the ESC
most of the time you need to unhook the wire from the conncector to swap the pins

test your motors 1st with no props to see if you got the right order

[Image: 12A_ESC_Makerfire_1_1800x1800.jpg?v=1573398496]

This is an old thread. OP has already moved on. Thanks for the info.
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