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Converted to Meteor65 from Pro
#1
I need some help.

I took my Meteor65 Pro and converted it to 31mm props, 0702 (21500 kV) motor, air frame. 

I finally got those little motors spinning properly and it did hover.

However during the beginning of the pack when the voltage is high the quad tended to fall out of the sky after a few seconds. When the battery drops a bit lower like after a minute or so the quad stabilizes and hover well. 

I am doing most of the tests LOS because it is pretty annoying not able to see from the goggle. The quad just roll left and drop.

I am suspecting I have a tuning issue. Maybe a filter is configured wrong or something. However I am not great with configurating BetaFlight.

Can some one help or do I have to do more search and see what I can find online. Most videos I found is about the 65 Pro. When it was a Pro with larger prop it did fly very well. 

The motors are from Tiny Whoop Onesies 0702 21500 kV. So I imagine the frequency is a bit different.

Here is before:

[Image: Wi9QSTGl.jpeg]

Here is after conversion:

[Image: ADpt1Jal.jpeg]

Thanks in advance for any help.
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#2
Update:

I loosen the screws on motor number 4 (front left). I also loosen the screws on the FC (which was a direct transfer from the Meteor65 Pro frame). 

I did hover LOS for 4 minutes. Then I put on the FPV goggles and hover another pack for 4 1/2 minutes before the low battery warning showed. The empty weight on the lighter frame and smaller motor is 19.14 grams. So I did not manage to get it below 18 grams. I still gained 1 minute though. 

So seems like maybe not tuning yet on BetaFlight. 

The flight before I loosen the screws did drop out of the sky at 1:48 minutes. So it was not battery voltage and frequency vibration. I have no clue what it was. I never did play with something so small.
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#3
So far so good. I guess the issue was that some screws were too tight. I was holding only the shaft of the screw driver and not the handle when I tightened. I guess M1.6 screws require very delicate touch.

I am now getting consistent 4 plus minutes flight. Mostly close to 4 1/2 minutes. I am satisfied with the flight time now.
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#4
M1.4 not?
Maybe its betafpvs proprietarysize screw quality if they are m1.6 Undecided
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#5
(05-May-2024, 02:53 AM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: M1.4 not?
Maybe its betafpvs proprietarysize screw quality if they are m1.6 Undecided

These screws came with the motors from Tiny Whoops. I didn't measure them. I just assumed they are M1.6.
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#6
They are m1.4 than, common choice bevor m2
Betafpv did motor using m1.6, no one else
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#7
From what you're describing it sounds like a motor desync.   Especially how you describe the quad rolling before dropping to the ground.   The screw loosening might be a small physical influence on the stator / rotor interactions in the motor as well.

From Oscar's article on desyncs: How to Fix ESC Desync in FPV Drones: Tips & Fixes - Oscar Liang


Quote:BLHeli Settings:
  • Rampup Power (or Startup Power): Use a lower value, such as 0.125 in BLHeli_S or 12% in BLHeli_32. If the props hesitate to spin when you arm the quad, you might need to slightly increase the rampup power until you find the sweet spot where the motors start spinning smoothly upon arming the quad without causing ESC desync.

  • Demag Compensation: Set to high, as it aids the quad in recovering from desyncs instead of merely dropping to the ground, albeit at the cost of some performance.
Only adjust these settings if your quad experiences desyncs. For more detailed information on what these settings do, refer to this guide: https://oscarliang.com/best-blheli-32-settings/.
If BLHeli settings are insufficient, you can also try the following settings in Betaflight:
  • Use DShot ESC Protocol if you are not already using it.

  • Motor Idle Throttle Value: The default is 5.5, which is quite conservative for smaller quads. Try a slightly higher value like 6.5 or 7.


  1. Plug the quad into power
  2. run small fan on bench to stop vtx overheating
  3. plug the usb port on quad into PC/mac
  4. launch https://develop.esc-configurator.com/
  5. connect to the quad using the COM port that is the FC
  6. Change the demag and rampup power settings there.
  7. save and disconnect
  8. discconect quad and power cycle before testing
See how that goes.

I was getting desyncs myself of a small whoop build ages ago.  In the end I installed QuickSilver and funnily enough that solved the issue.   A crappy correlation but it seemed to work.

EDIT: I had a look at the specs for the original Meteor65 pro, it comes with the 2022 version of their 1S FC (F4 1S 5A AIO Brushless Flight Controller – BETAFPV Hobby).  This FC has Bluejay for the esc firmware out of the box so the process above using esc-configurator.com should work fine.
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#8
(05-May-2024, 10:17 AM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: They are m1.4 than, common choice bevor m2
Betafpv did motor using m1.6, no one else

Thank you. I will keep that in mind. I do have some M1.6 in my hardware collection. I am glad I didn't have to use those and mess up the threads.
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#9
(05-May-2024, 11:12 AM)ph2t Wrote: From what you're describing it sounds like a motor desync.   Especially how you describe the quad rolling before dropping to the ground.   The screw loosening might be a small physical influence on the stator / rotor interactions in the motor as well.

From Oscar's article on desyncs: How to Fix ESC Desync in FPV Drones: Tips & Fixes - Oscar Liang




  1. Plug the quad into power
  2. run small fan on bench to stop vtx overheating
  3. plug the usb port on quad into PC/mac
  4. launch https://develop.esc-configurator.com/
  5. connect to the quad using the COM port that is the FC
  6. Change the demag and rampup power settings there.
  7. save and disconnect
  8. discconect quad and power cycle before testing
See how that goes.

I was getting desyncs myself of a small whoop build ages ago.  In the end I installed QuickSilver and funnily enough that solved the issue.   A crappy correlation but it seemed to work.

EDIT: I had a look at the specs for the original Meteor65 pro, it comes with the 2022 version of their 1S FC (F4 1S 5A AIO Brushless Flight Controller – BETAFPV Hobby).  This FC has Bluejay for the esc firmware out of the box so the process above using esc-configurator.com should work fine.

Thank you. Yes I will read the article thoroughly and check the Blue Jay webpage. I have never get the hang of using black box so I don't use it though. 

Funny story about a motor desync issue I had a very long time ago. I was messing with these "new" pancake multicopter motors with something like 22 or 23 poles. Apparently the speed controllers with SimonK software did not like those motors. I was trying to shoot a 100 acre property way up high. All of a sudden the Y6 started to tumble down. I was high enough to lower throttle and try to power up three times. On the second time one motor started to squeal and smoke was coming out. I had a smoke trail with the Y6 falling down. It looked like it was shot down. I managed to lower the throttle a third time and advanced slowly and the Y6 did stabilize and I managed to bring it home to a safe landing. It was line of sight flight and thrilling.
[-] The following 1 user Likes SeismicCWave's post:
  • ph2t
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#10
Quote:I had a smoke trail with the Y6 falling down.

That would of been painful but epic at the same time.
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#11
(06-May-2024, 12:18 AM)ph2t Wrote: That would of been painful but epic at the same time.

I am a hoarder and I actually saved the motor and speed controller for a conversation piece.  Big Grin

[Image: bicz8Ebl.jpeg]
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#12
A VERY EASY experiment is to go into the PID tuning tab on BF and slide both rpm tuning sliders from 1.0 to, say, 0.8, and test again. Don't change anything else. If that fixes the problem, great. If it does not, you can easily return the sliders to 1.0. No harm done.

This has fixed runaway and control issues on two 2S builds I did with too-flexible frames.
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#13
(06-May-2024, 04:44 AM)segler999 Wrote: A VERY EASY experiment is to go into the PID tuning tab on BF and slide both rpm tuning sliders from 1.0 to, say, 0.8, and test again.  Don't change anything else.  If that fixes the problem, great.  If it does not, you can easily return the sliders to 1.0.  No harm done.

This has fixed runaway and control issues on two 2S builds I did with too-flexible frames.

Thanks, I have had many flights so far and no issue since I loosen the screw. I am reading just to educate myself but I am not ready to mess with figuring out motor desync yet. It ain't broke no more so I am not going to fix it yet. Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin
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#14
Some issue today with a flight controller.

I bought this thinking I was going to simply a Toothpick. I decided against it since the Toothpick is flying.

So I wanted to see if I can use the FC some place else.

https://www.tmotor.shop/products/tmotor-...tx-bluejay

Turned out this is one useless FC. I am no stranger to ExpressLRS since I have been using that for a while now and have been binding many receivers of all types to my ExpressLRS transmitters. However this one stumped me.

Turned out the FC came with SPI ExpressLRS V2.0 on BetaFlight 4.3.0. That's fine and good as long as I can update BetaFlight to 4.4.X. No joy. For some strange reason this FC simply does not like BetaFlight 4.4.X. I just kept on trying with flashing different firmware on the FC. 4.3.X is fine. The receiver said I am on SPI ExpressLRS receiver but it is only on ExpressLRS version 2.0. I can probably flash one of my module to ExpressLRS 2.0 and try to bind to this FC but why. 

This must be some old stock that I got myself into. 

I have an email to Pyrodrone where I bought it to see what they say.

If any of you have any idea on what I can try without having to back down to ExpressLRS 2.0 I am all ears.
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#15
I agree. Stay with ELRS 3.xx and try to find a compatible FC firmware for 4.4.x.
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