Hello guest, if you read this it means you are not registered. Click here to register in a few simple steps, you will enjoy all features of our Forum.
This forum uses cookies
This forum makes use of cookies to store your login information if you are registered, and your last visit if you are not. Cookies are small text documents stored on your computer; the cookies set by this forum can only be used on this website and pose no security risk. Cookies on this forum also track the specific topics you have read and when you last read them. Please confirm whether you accept or reject these cookies being set.

A cookie will be stored in your browser regardless of choice to prevent you being asked this question again. You will be able to change your cookie settings at any time using the link in the footer.

Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
CineBot30 O3
#1
To anyone who has/had the GEPRC CineBot30 O3, are there any tips or tricks that might make it easier to access the microSD card and/or the binding/linking button?

Thanks!
[-] The following 1 user Likes GClef's post:
  • mulapickle
Reply
Login to remove this ad | Register Here
#2
Ceramic tweezers may help.
[-] The following 2 users Like kafie1980's post:
  • Pennywise, hugnosed_bat
Reply
#3
(18-Feb-2023, 02:04 AM)GClef Wrote: To anyone who has/had the GEPRC CineBot30 O3, are there any tips or tricks that might make it easier to access the microSD card and/or the binding/linking button?

Thanks!
Edit: When I first posted this, I did not understand the question. The first 2 tips below relate to the micro USB connector used to connect to betaflight.

If by micro SD card, you mean the the micro usb connector (the one you connect for BetaFlight), there are two things I've tried.

1. using a micro usb  connector with a thin width on the insulation part.
 
2. Holding the side of the connector right up against the frame part to the right (looking into the connector), and starting at a slight angle to the to the right.

Now that I've done it a bunch, I find #2 good enough.

I'm not aware of a removable micro SD card--if there is one, I'd like to replace it with a larger capacity, since the bot can only record 20G, which is good for about two battery packs. Lately I've been connecting to my phone after two batteries to move the files onto phone--takes about 10 minutes. (Edit: I added a 64G micro SD card when I rebuilt the quad).

I had to take the top off to get to the binding button, but that isn't the way I eventually got it bound. I used the connect/disconnect 2 times then connect method (so connect, disconnect, connect, disconnect, connect), and that worked great. (Edit: this is for binding the receiver to the transmitter.)

As an additional tip, a right angle USB connector is easier to use for the O3 USB C connector. Edit: this is very useful, and is what I still do.
Reply
#4
(18-Feb-2023, 02:04 AM)GClef Wrote: To anyone who has/had the GEPRC CineBot30 O3, are there any tips or tricks that might make it easier to access the microSD card and/or the binding/linking button?

Thanks!

After disassembling my Cinebot after a recent crash where I tossed a motor (posted about it elsewhere here), I see what you're talking about. I didn't even know there was a micro SD card slot. It's shown in the O3 manual, but I never had looked at that before. I actually saw it in the manual first, and was like "huh?", then found it on the O3 unit.

Even with frame apart and motors off. It looks like you'd have to use tweezers to get at the card. The antenna wire also may be obscuring the card slot. There are only 4 screws holding the O3 unit to the frame, so easy enough to just remove it.
  • EDIT: What I think you actually need to do is remove the 9 screws on the bottom frame half, to which the O3 is connected. Removing this frame piece should pull out the O3 unit with it, as the O3 is attached to this frame piece by the 4 screws I mentioned above. I don't want to do this now, as I just got it all back together after replacing the AIO, but if you do it, be careful not to pull too hard, since there are wires connected between the O3 and the AIO with connectors.
  • You need to pull the frame piece down a little more than 1cm, which is the height of the prop guard that is blocking access to the card. If you can do that without disconnecting the wires between the O3 and AIO, then inserting and removing the card should be easy.
  • The only tricky part might be getting the frame piece back on if the wires have moved around--it's a tight fit. I never removed this frame part without the top frame half off, but I don't see any reason not to try it if you're careful. It should be easier than removing the top frame half and then removing the O3 from the bottom frame half, and then putting that all back together.
I don't anticipate removing the card unless it goes bad, since the files can be offloaded to pc or phone via USB.
  • Edit: I just did this. it took awhile, but I did something else while the files were being moved to my PC, and it worked fine.
  • The internal storage shows up as drive D on my computer, and the SD card shows up as drive E.
Also, I didn't use the link/bind button to bind--I used the connect/disconnect 3 times method, which worked. I tried using the model match method, but that didn't work. I probably did something wrong.
  • Edit: this was to bind the reciever to the radio--nothing to do with O3.
[-] The following 1 user Likes aerokam's post:
  • skamtastik
Reply



Login to remove this ad | Register Here