Sorry late to this. I would have suggested buying a HM Cine8, then transplanting everything to a new lightweight frame. Cost for the quad would have been $120. Add a Radiomaster T8 Lite for $35. Add a cheap 2" frame, such as the JMT Twiglet Mini 2" and canopy for $10. Add some 2S and 3S Lipos, variable price, but for $50 you would get a few. maybe a cheap set of goggles like BetaFPV VR02's.

So the Cine8 is essentially pre soldered. You only need to assemble it. You would get a cinewhoop if you kept the TPU frame, but if you went to a cheap Twiglet frame (and dropped a bunch of weight), you would get a nimble 2-3S toothpick.

Maybe something to consider for the future if you are looking for an easy build.

(01-Mar-2023, 06:17 PM)Dorash Wrote: To simplify the choice of components, I bought a frame GEPRC GEP-CT30 and measured everything.

https://share.cleanshot.com/nzNp7vCf Width 40 mm and height 22 mm. So there are many FCs that size.

I chose these three:
https://pyrodrone.com/collections/flight...-25-5x25-5
https://pyrodrone.com/products/geprc-gep...3255884843
https://pyrodrone.com/collections/flight...5-5x25-5mm

In terms of size and basic characteristics they are almost the same. So I need your advice, which of your experiences is better to choose?
I also need advice on which ELRS to choose. I have a Radiomaster Zorro ELRS

Camera: Foxeer Toothless 2 Micro Starlight
VTX: SpeedyBee TX800
Antena: Speedy Bee 5.8 GHz Antenna V2 (MMCX-Straight)
ELRS Receiver: RADIOMASTER RANGER NANO 2.4GHZ ELRS MODULE - STARTER COMBO
Motors: GEPRC SPEEDX2 1804 2450KV
Propeller: HQ PROP DURABLE 75MM PROP DUCT-3
Battery: ?

This is the set. Is there anything else you need? Like charger connector?
And please advise me which battery to take? I read that with 6s can fly longer

Thanks

That ELRS starter combo comes with a nano ELRS transmitter module which will fit in the back of your zorro (but it’s not necessary if you already have the ELRS version of the zorro) and a couple ELRS receivers. If you already have the ELRS version of the zorro, you just need an ELRS receiver on its own, like this:
https://pyrodrone.com/collections/happym...ver-module
Or this:
https://pyrodrone.com/collections/happym...ver-module

Out of the three aio flight controllers you’ve selected, I’d go with the Foxeer one:
https://pyrodrone.com/collections/flight...5-5x25-5mm
The other two options you chose: 
iFlight can be hit or miss on their quality control, I’d avoid it.
The GEPRC one only has a 1A 5v bec, might not be enough for all 5v accessories.
That Foxeer one is currently out of stock, so I’d suggest this Diatone one:
https://pyrodrone.com/collections/whoop-...fi-version
An added bonus of this Diatone one is that it has WiFi- so after your initial setup, you can connect to betaflight wirelessly to change settings, rather than struggling to get access to the usb port.

Those motors are T-mount, not 5mm, so make sure you get T-mount style props like:
https://pyrodrone.com/collections/3-inch...-carbonate
https://pyrodrone.com/collections/3-inch...-carbonate
https://pyrodrone.com/collections/3-inch...whoop-prop

For batteries, GEPRC recommends 1100mah 6s, that seems large to me.
Fpvapnea, what batteries are you using on yours? Dorash’s motors are rated for 6s.

You will need a charger as well. If you already have a charger, aio flight controllers usually come with a connector.
You’ll want to pick up a low esr capacitor, the ones that come with flight controllers are typically crap:
https://pyrodrone.com/products/flyfishrc...tor-10-pcs
(Can someone please verify if this capacitor is actually low esr?)

Here is the final list of components:

GEPRC GEP-CT30 Frame
Mamba MK4 F740 AIO | 40A 6S 32bit / FOXEER REAPER AIO V3 F745 45A What's better to take? I have both in stock at my stores
Foxeer Micro Toothless 2
Speedybee TX800
Speedy Bee 5.8GHz Antenna V2
GEPRC SpeedX2 1804 2450KV
HQProp T76MMX3
Happymodel EP1 RX 2.4GHz ExpressLRS
Rubycon UPL 50V 470uf 10x22mm Capacitor
GNB 1300mAh 4S 120C LiPo Battery
Mateksys M10-5883

I looked at the battery and GPS in fpvapnea's build.

So the last component is charger. What would you recommend to buy?

Thanks

The Foxeer will probably have better quality than the Diatone.

That Foxeer aio flight controller comes with an xt30 connector, and your chosen battery comes with an xt60, so you will actually need an xt60 connector or pigtail:
https://pyrodrone.com/collections/wiring...6awg-2-pcs

If you plan on sticking only with 4s, consider getting the 3450kv version of those motors instead of the 2450kv.

If you get the 2450kv version like you listed, consider a smaller mah 6s battery like these (these have an xt30 connector, so you wouldn’t need that xt60 pigtail connector linked to above):

https://pyrodrone.com/collections/6s-bat...ttery-xt30
https://pyrodrone.com/collections/6s-bat...ttery-xt30

As far as battery chargers, the main ones I use aren’t made anymore, so I can’t give you a recommendation that I’ve had hands on use with.
Maybe this:
https://pyrodrone.com/collections/charge...rt-charger
Oscar has a review of that charger here:
https://oscarliang.com/hota-s6/

Edit- you might need some xt60 to xt30 adapters if that charger doesn’t come with them.

Ok, then I will take 2450kv and https://pyrodrone.com/collections/6s-bat...ttery-xt30

One more question:
https://share.cleanshot.com/FL52wwyd
https://share.cleanshot.com/B7M6LMGx

According to the diagram, VTX and camera, connect to the same place as the GPS?

(01-Mar-2023, 11:40 PM)Dorash Wrote: Ok, then I will take 2450kv and https://pyrodrone.com/collections/6s-bat...ttery-xt30

One more question:
https://share.cleanshot.com/FL52wwyd
https://share.cleanshot.com/B7M6LMGx

According to the diagram, VTX and camera, connect to the same place as the GPS?

No- some share the same 5v and ground pad, but the rest of the connections go to different individual pads in that same area- there are two rows of pads.

And you’ll need these to plug batteries into the charger if it doesn’t come with adapters:
https://pyrodrone.com/products/xt60-to-x...8639895595

You want the xt60 female to xt30 male version.

Lemonyleprosy
Thanks a lot for your advices! This is really invaluable information for me).
Then all I have to do is pick up a charger and I'll buy everything and start assembling

Thank you all so much for your advices

You’re welcome. I’d suggest drawing out a wiring diagram and posting it before you start soldering things to the flight controller, so that we can double check that your wiring is correct.

Oh! One last thing.

That Speedybee tx800 vtx has deep m3 size bolt holes. I’d suggest picking up some m3 to m2 adapters like these:
https://pyrodrone.com/products/m3-to-m2-...er-10-pack

Or you can do what I do with them which is use some heat shrink tubing as a spacer.

Those m3 to m2 adapters are metal, so don’t use them on your aio flight controller, just use them on the Speedybee vtx- the flight controller will come with vibration isolation gummies that will go in the flight controllers m3 size holes to make them work with m2 size bolts.

Picking up a variety pack of different length m2 bolts and nuts will also make the building process easier.
And zip ties.

I will definitely do that. This is a new hobby for me so I will be asking a lot of questions)

(02-Mar-2023, 12:07 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: Oh! One last thing.

That Speedybee tx800 vtx has deep m3 size bolt holes. I’d suggest picking up some m3 to m2 adapters like these:
https://pyrodrone.com/products/m3-to-m2-...er-10-pack

Or you can do what I do with them which is use some heat shrink tubing as a spacer.

Those m3 to m2 adapters are metal, so don’t use them on your aio flight controller, just use them on the Speedybee vtx- the flight controller will come with vibration isolation gummies that will go in the flight controllers m3 size holes to make them work with m2 size bolts.

Picking up a variety pack of different length m2 bolts and nuts will also make the building process easier.
And zip ties.

I can't emphesize this enough. Measure twice.

Typically for 5" need M3 screws.
For 4" and smaller toothpics, need M2 screws.

For motors, 10.9 or even 12.9 steel SOCKET (for high torque). Typically frame thickness + 2mm/3mm, but measure it!
For T mount holding prop or for holding stack, BUTTON (round). Very good to have 25-30 etc long if you have digital stack

Hi everyone.
I have one more question:
What do you varnish microcircuits with and do you do it? My flying location is the seaside, so protection wouldn't hurt).
Thanks

(05-Mar-2023, 05:53 PM)Dorash Wrote: Hi everyone.
I have one more question:
What do you varnish microcircuits with and do you do it? My flying location is the seaside, so protection wouldn't hurt).
Thanks

I use these:


MG Chemicals 422C silicone conformal coating for boards. I use disposable eyelash brushes to apply it to the legs of chips, while trying to leave the tops of them exposed for heat dissipation, and then cover the rest of the boards with a small paint brush. You have to be careful not to get any in plugs or in buttons. It’s a bit messy if you need to go back in and resolder anything- I clean it off with a swab and 99% isopropyl alcohol prior to resoldering anything. I also pre tin all pads, even the ones I’m not using, prior to conformal coating- if you don’t do this, it’s a pain to get solder to stick to a pad in the future.

I use CorrosionX on all plugs and jacks.

Even with all that, it is water resistant, not waterproof. I’m able to fly in the rain and crash into snow, but there is still a risk.

Salt water is not the same as fresh water. If I were to crash into salt water, I would unplug everything and rinse it well with fresh water, and allow it to dry overnight prior to flying it again.

Hi everyone. I already had almost all the parts delivered, only the AIO is left and I will finally start assembling.
And now I have another important question - the fuses.

What and how do I check during assembly?
What devices do I need to test the fpv?

Now I'm reading about VIFLY ShortSaver 2 Smoke Stopper.

Thanks