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Building a 85mm hdzero basher?
#16
(22-May-2024, 01:11 AM)Cyberess Wrote: If doing tree canopies, thick bush the problem with open prop quads is they have a habit of grabbing on the tree

This is one of my considerations as I would fly this quad at overgrown bandos.
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#17
The happymodel cruxf405hd flight controller overhangs the draknight frame too much to be safe for bashing. I have a HM x12 aio that I believe is in full working condition, and that fits the frame more snugly. Now I'm only waiting on the whoop lite vtx from HDZero. Their shipping is insanely slow right now. I got tempted to pull a vtx out of another quad, but no sense causing myself a bunch of re-work.
I consulted mstc and decided I will use the draknight's included buzzer which is smaller and lighter than a vifly mini. For bando bashing I have found a buzzer to be invaluable because of all of the holes and nooks you can tumble into.
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#18
That frame only has 25x25 mounting so you would need a whoop style board like the SuperF405HD which is essentially the same as the Crux board just in a whoop form factor. The X12 should work too, but is in only 2S capable, so don't try plugging in 3S. Also not sure if you have the version with onboard analog VTX, I don't know if it has a jumper to disable that or not, otherwise maybe you can just fly it analog, it will be around 6g lighter as a bonus.
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#19
I got impatient waiting for Divimath shipping for my new VTXs, so I just pulled the stack out of my crux35. So it's a crazyf411 FC with an HDZero whoop board. Unfortunately the aluminum top bar of the Draknight frame collides with the edge of the VTX. I could potentially cut the aluminum frame to provide clearance, but it is the rear of the camera mount that is touching, so it's not an ideal place to remove material. Looks like I should still wait for the whoop-lite board from divimath, which I suspect will pop in place with no contact points.
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#20
I’ve been looking at that odanada frame.. has anyone tried 2.5” props on it? Will they fit? Particularly the Avan Rush props..
I’ve been Effn around with my Tinyhawk freestyle for far too long! It’s been pulled apart since it’s last crash.. and I decided to add HDzero.. the vtx wasn’t a issue because I upgraded to 3s with the Darwin fc.. but getting things together was a PITA with the adapter plates for this particular frame.. in turn, ripping the ufl off the vtx board.. and I hadn’t even finished building it..
So I’m looking for a frame, that will take these 3 bolt pattern and a 25x25 aio..the 1103 7000kv motors are just fine on 3s and it RIPS!.. I miss flying it..
So if anyone knows if these props fit..
I’ve seen the microheli replacement frame, but not a big fan of those side plates..
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#21
(28-May-2024, 06:29 PM)Rob Axel Wrote:  So I’m looking for a frame, that will take these 3 bolt pattern and a 25x25  aio..the 1103 7000kv motors are just fine on 3s and it RIPS!.. I miss flying it..
 So if anyone knows if these props fit..
I’ve seen the microheli replacement frame, but not a big fan of those side plates..

Nope sorry, just checked... even tried the smaller Avan 2.3, no go.

Have you looked for something at cncdrones? Use different motors?

Oh snap!!! Check jacks3d printing for the Starlort!... lemme looksee:

Bingo:

TKS starlord 90mm 2.5mm carbon
Sale price
$17.00
Regular price
$20.00
SALE
https://www.jacks3dprinting.com/products...5mm-carbon

Check Nick for reviews...





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#22
Yeah, looked at that frame (Nick B. Is one of my favorite reviewers).. I also saw the Betafpv twiglet .. these will both “work”.. but looking more for the freestyle / school bus frame rather than a “race” frame with the camera centered..
And THANKYOU for checking the props and the info.. I may just pick a frame I like and drill the motor pads..
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#23
(28-May-2024, 05:29 PM)FPVme Wrote: I got impatient waiting for Divimath shipping for my new VTXs, so I just pulled the stack out of my crux35.  So it's a crazyf411 FC with an HDZero whoop board.  Unfortunately the aluminum top bar of the Draknight frame collides with the edge of the VTX.  I could potentially cut the aluminum frame to provide clearance, but it is the rear of the camera mount that is touching, so it's not an ideal place to remove material.  Looks like I should still wait for the whoop-lite board from divimath, which I suspect will pop in place with no contact points.

Sorry should have mentioned the clearance is tight towards the rear, there is just enough room for two bare boards, if your VTX also has a heatsink then it will not fit. It is possible to raise the rails though with a 3D print, nuts or other spacers.
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#24
(28-May-2024, 08:15 PM)Rob Axel Wrote: Yeah, looked at that frame (Nick B. Is one of my favorite reviewers).. I also saw the Betafpv twiglet .. these will both “work”.. but looking more for the freestyle / school bus frame rather than a “race” frame with the camera centered..
 And THANKYOU for checking the props and the info.. I may just pick a frame I like and  drill the motor pads..

Sorry missed that schoolbus part before...  Big Grin

TKS GT25
3 hole or 4 hole
https://cncdrones.com/tks-gt25.html

TKS GT25
Update 22-04-04 Got a request for 3 holes motor mount so i did and it has been uploaded !
https://www.printables.com/model/178117-tks-gt25
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#25
Looks like I got some work to do!!! Thanks again.
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#26
(28-May-2024, 08:28 PM)mstc Wrote: Sorry should have mentioned the clearance is tight towards the rear, there is just enough room for two bare boards, if your VTX also has a heatsink then it will not fit. It is possible to raise the rails though with a 3D print, nuts or other spacers.

Of course, that makes much more sense than cutting the frame haha. Let's see what I've got laying around.
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#27
I boosted the frame rails using 4 tpu spacers. Everything fits with room to spare, so I will space out the vtx and fc more to reduce risk of damage.
I tried flying but had immediate death wobbles. My flight controller is physically rotated 45* CCW from the direction it was mounted on the working crux. The crux board was already set at CW 90* in betaflight. So should I now set custom yaw to 45*? I think I tried that unsuccessfully but may not have set it correctly.

Once I am up and flying I need new (smaller) vtx and rc antenna for this build. I would also like to add some sort of protection above the VTX. I can definitely imagine scenarios where the quad could impact an object directly with the vtx/fc stack. Maybe just a TPU cover to dissipate/transfer some energy.
[-] The following 1 user Likes FPVme's post:
  • skywanderer
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#28
(29-May-2024, 03:21 PM)FPVme Wrote: I boosted the frame rails using 4 tpu spacers.  Everything fits with room to spare, so I will space out the vtx and fc more to reduce risk of damage.  
I tried flying but had immediate death wobbles.  My flight controller is physically rotated 45* CCW from the direction it was mounted on the working crux.  The crux board was already set at CW 90* in betaflight.  So should I now set custom yaw to 45*?  I think I tried that unsuccessfully but may not have set it correctly.

Once I am up and flying I need new (smaller) vtx and rc antenna for this build.  I would also like to add some sort of protection above the VTX.  I can definitely imagine scenarios where the quad could impact an object directly with the vtx/fc stack.  Maybe just a TPU cover to dissipate/transfer some energy.

Once you have everything settled, would love to see a pic or two of this build if you have a chance! Imagine it's a really fun lil ripper, flight times?
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#29
Got the gyro orientation set and took my first flight. Felt pretty good, but some noticeable wobbling at higher throttle. Will spend some time double-checking placement and attachments to ensure it's not vibration from the quad, but this FC still has the PIDs from the crux35, not sure if I should adjust that by using a preset for a whoop.
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#30
Turns out I had things backwards on the bottom plate, so the clearance issue is less of a problem, though still enough of one to require the tpu mounts. Unfortunately I stripped one of the screw holes on the Draknight side plate. I was able to secure a screw by placing some tpu material in the screw hole prior to engaging the threads. It looks like you can't just buy a side plate for the frame and instead would have to buy a whole draknight frame just to get a spare right plate. Looking forward to another test flight tomorrow (assuming the rain stops).
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