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Arming problem, I get the TX signal but no movement
#1
Hello, I have a problem with spinning the motors.
The FC that I´m currently using is “Sumicline F4 Flight Controller” which I found on Amazon. That´s the board:

[Image: eGDmbtHl.png]
[Image: JFLrpzTl.png]

And that´s the description that I was given buying this board (yes I know that it´s in Spanish, but it´s understandable):

[Image: jjt2fNQl.png]

I have connected the blue and green wires to power the board, the signal from the receiver is connected to RX3 and each motor is connected to the PWM1, PWM2, PWM3 and PWM4 ports, as in this photos: 

[Image: 0bouZL5l.jpg]
[Image: 0zMZNuzl.jpg]
[Image: lbuCRubl.jpg]
[Image: Bx0OeL4l.jpg]
[Image: VHOL28Ml.jpg]

The betaflight configuration is like that (sorry some things are in Spanish):

[Image: UE4Y5Y0l.png]

In the receiver tab, whenever I move the stick on my transmitter, I CAN see all the channels moving on the betaflight software:

[Image: zNCu6X1l.png]

In the motors tab, if I choose the PWM protocol (and yes, I know it’s very old), the motors spin if I use the sliders on the right side of the photo and the ESC´s make a noise like 3 fast PI..PI..PI and one last PIII…., but if I use the sticks on my transmitter the motors do not react and do not spin.
If I choose any other protocol like oneshot125, multishot or dshot600, press save in betaflight and then connect the battery the motors DO NOT spin if I use the sliders like before, and it also DO NOT spin if I use the transmitter.
One more thing, if I change the protocol to oneshot125, multishot, dsshot600 or any other protocol besides PWM the ESC´s start to make a periodic noise, something like PI….PI…..PI……PI, one “PI” every 1 second or something like that for a long time (it never stops, unless I unplug the battery).

[Image: Ey2ZgFwl.png]

I want the motors to spin when I use the transmitter, I don’t really care if I use an old protocol and stuff like that for the moment. I just really need it to fly, or at least spin.
I can also add the modes tab that I have in betaflight:

[Image: 8cm9CBvl.png]

If I slide the AUX 1 to the right, it says something like that (it gets RED and it says “deactivated”) (Obviously whenever I try to do something I slide the AUX1 to the position on the far LEFT) :

[Image: QhiMRzMl.png] 

This is for my final degree project at my university, and I would really like it to work.
Thanks a lot, guys, I hope you help me J
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#2
The ARM mode turns red and shows "deactivated" because you have the USB cable plugged into the FC. For safety reasons Betaflight won't normally let you arm the quad when it's connected to a computer.

With the props OFF, disconnect the USB cable and then try arming the quad to see if it then works as expected.
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#3
(09-Nov-2022, 09:35 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: The ARM mode turns red and shows "deactivated" because you have the USB cable plugged into the FC. For safety reasons Betaflight won't normally let you arm the quad when it's connected to a computer.

With the props OFF, disconnect the USB cable and then try arming the quad to see if it then works as expected.

That’s what I suspected, the ARM turns red because of the USB. I also tried to do this:
1.-Unplug the USB from the FC.
2.-Turn ON the transmitter (with throttle at the lowest possible position and the ARM on the FAR LEFT).
3.-Plug in the battery (with props off)
4.-Still no response.

I get the the PI….PI…..PI (with progressively higher pitch), and that means that the ESC have power from the battery, but after that I get infinite PI PI sounds every 1 second or so.
I’m going to try it again tomorrow, slowly checking everything.
Also, one more question, it is necessary to calibrate the ESC’s? I have 4 SimonK ESC’s and 4 Dilwe ESC’s, also I can’t find what protocol should I use with them, I’m currently using the PWM protocol.

Thanks for the response Smile
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#4
https://oscarliang.com/how-to-calibrate-esc/

yes, its necessary for pwm
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#5
SimonK ESCs are before my time in the hobby but with PWM ESCs you should always calibrate them to your transmitter so I would do that first to at least eliminate incorrect calibration as being a potential cause of your issue. The two videos below demonstrate how to Calibrate SimonK ESCs.

If after calibration you still get the issue then please post a video of the behaviour you are getting so we can see the actual issue and pitch / frequency of the beeping.



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#6
(09-Nov-2022, 11:05 PM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: https://oscarliang.com/how-to-calibrate-esc/

yes, its necessary for pwm

Yes, that was one of the main problems, I did calibrate all the ESC´s and they work perfectly.
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#7
(09-Nov-2022, 11:09 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: SimonK ESCs are before my time in the hobby but with PWM ESCs you should always calibrate them to your transmitter so I would do that first to at least eliminate incorrect calibration as being a potential cause of your issue. The two videos below demonstrate how to Calibrate SimonK ESCs.

If after calibration you still get the issue then please post a video of the behaviour you are getting so we can see the actual issue and pitch / frequency of the beeping.




And the second main problem was the ARM aux channel, it wasn´t activated... hahaha

I had some more problems like trying to do it while I had the FC connected via USB to my PC, or without batteries (when I was very tired)

At least it works with the transmitter, now I need to attach all parts and motors to my 3D printed structure and try to fly it. I will keep you updated because I will have more questions for sure.

I was also thinking about connecting a camera (FPV), it is possible with the FC I have? What do you think?
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#8
it seems your flightcontroller has no osd, you can add cam and vtx, you dont need the fc between, you wont get betaflight infos overlay; voltage, flighttime,....

what 3d printed frame do you use?
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#9
That FC is a clone of an Omnibus F4 V6 FC. It has a 28-pin AT7456E OSD chip on the underside of the board.

You connect the signal wire from the camera to the VIN pad, and you connect the VOUT pad to the VTX. Then you will get Betaflight OSD in your goggles.
[-] The following 1 user Likes SnowLeopardFPV's post:
  • hugnosed_bat
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#10
(10-Nov-2022, 10:43 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: That FC is a clone of an Omnibus F4 V6 FC. It has a 28-pin AT7456E OSD chip on the underside of the board.

You connect the signal wire from the camera to the VIN pad, and you connect the VOUT pad to the VTX. Then you will get Betaflight OSD in your goggles.

Thanks, that´s what I suspected. That´s a future plan for now.
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#11
(10-Nov-2022, 10:29 PM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: it seems your flightcontroller has no osd, you can add cam and vtx, you dont need the fc between, you wont get betaflight infos overlay; voltage, flighttime,....

what 3d printed frame do you use?

I created it using SolidWorks and printed it with the Ultimaker 2+, like I said before, it´s for a project in my university Smile

If you want and you are curious I can show you all the build
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#12
im sorry for missinformation, thank you snow for correction that there is an osd
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#13
With some of these old flight controllers (and especially the clones) it's easy to mistake them for ones that don't have onboard OSD. The key clue visual to look out for is a long rectangular 28-pin chip on the board. That is only ever a MAX7456 OSD chip or a Chinese clone of the same with a lower input voltage which is the AT7456E chip. If you see one of those the next thing is to look for the related video in and video out pads which also aren't always easy to spot due to no standard naming convention, so VIN and VOUT can quite easily be mistaken for Voltage In and Voltage Out when in fact they are actually Video In and Video Out.
[-] The following 1 user Likes SnowLeopardFPV's post:
  • hugnosed_bat
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#14
(12-Nov-2022, 12:41 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: With some of these old flight controllers (and especially the clones) it's easy to mistake them for ones that don't have onboard OSD. The key clue visual to look out for is a long rectangular 28-pin chip on the board. That is only ever a MAX7456 OSD chip or a Chinese clone of the same with a lower input voltage which is the AT7456E chip. If you see one of those the next thing is to look for the related video in and video out pads which also aren't always easy to spot due to no standard naming convention, so VIN and VOUT can quite easily be mistaken for Voltage In and Voltage Out when in fact they are actually Video In and Video Out.

Sorry, I forgot to thank you all for the help, now everything works, but I have some issues with stabilizing the drone, if you could the the most recent three that I started I would be very thankful.
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