This may be a slow build because I really have no idea what to make of this frame lol.     Maybe you guys can help me out with this one.

It was more of an impulse buy seeing Armattan getting into the 4 inch micro LR trend.  That and I'm a sucker for cool camera cages and custom cut lipo pads.  

Total of 11 days shipping from Armattan HQ to Southern California which is pretty good all things considered ...





I'm glad frame makers are moving to chamfered edges rather than leaving us to file freshly cut carbon.



The alu parts are trademark Armattan goodness ...





Custom cut lipo pad yes please.    



Even Chris admitted in a launch video that 5 screws per arm is likely overkill.  I suspect he'd gotten a lot of flack from the sketchy arms loosening up on prior frames like the Badger - something I experienced myself and found so detrimental to a good tune that I switched to Apex.  I was going to go with 3 screws then checking the gyro_scaled later but decided to just go with all 5.





What got me though was he left some slop in the arms lol.  If you don't tighten down all the screws, there is quite a bit of wiggle.  I just don't get it.



There are two sets of rear arm holes.  The set closer to the middle makes it a "compressed X" configuration with a 182mm wheelbase more in line with other 4 inch micro LRs on the market.  I opted for the "true X" configuration using the rear-most set of arm holes for a 200mm wheelbase.  This was really more to keep the countersunk nuts from sitting right below the rear stack than for flight characteristics ...



And you are supposed to use *M6* screws for the arms for super duper Armattan secureness lawls.  



Saucy ...





There's a ton of parts and doodads left in the baggie which is mostly for DJI stuffs.  Otherwise ...







Mine clocks in a good 5g more than the stated 57g on the product page so not too sure whatsupwiddatyo ... 





Compared to the Diatome Roma F4 ...





Compared to the Tomoquads Katana ...





Stack height looks awfully tight but it's actually the standard 20mm just like other 4 inch micro LRs ...



Space between the camera cage and the front stack is about 10mm ...



Space between stacks is about 5mm ...



Space between the rear stack and rear standoffs is about 15mm ...



I was really hoping to go whoop AIO and whoop HD cam with this one but it might be cutting it too tight unless I can find some sort of offset whoop adapter - and I'm hesitant to 3d print one for the vibrations such an adapter might introduce.



I may just go with dual 20x20s using a Kakute F7 Mini stack and a Caddx Tarsier ...



Another issue is the no standoffs. Add to that the funky shape of the rear brackets. This makes for designing antenna mounts a super pain in the ass. There are what I'm assuming are zip tie holes for a DJI unit which I might be able to use as antenna anchor mounts.

I'm also still hoping I can somehow use a whoop board with this. Hmmm ....

Was is this? Building instructions? I think this is the first frame I have seen that came with instructions lol. I don't like that there are no standoffs in the middle of the frame. May give you more room to do what ever you want. Excited to see what you come up with. Maybe put some T-Motor 1404's? 

I'm working on a new long range build myself but I went bigger because I got in on a group buy of some 2808 motors. I'm thinking about calling this one the "Murder Hornet". Oh by the way, this is going to be a DJI build. Yes I said DJI! as long as the goggles arrive when RDQ says they will. Keep an eye out. 

Yea guys, I'm really scratching my head on this one.  Dare I say ... maybe even regret the purchase a little?    

Whoop size is really a no go for this frame.  Even with a custom offset 20x20 adapter, the front of the whoop board gets too close to the camera cage.  And while my first 4 inch micro LR (Dave_C original) used dual 20x20 stack, that frame was light as a feather in comparison.

I'm wondering though if this would be a good 4 inch lightweight and discrete (bi-blade) freestyle ripper?  I'd use a Caddx Tarsier and a F7 mini stack.  But what motors to spin 4 inch biblades you think?  I'd want something with a LOT more oomph than the typical T-mount 1404's.  I'm also thinking 4S instead of 3S?  Maybe one of those fancy new pancake kabob / ummagawd motors all the kids are raving about these days?  

Hmmm ...



https://ummagawd.com/collections/motors/...id=1&pid=1

OR!!  ...



https://pyrodrone.com/collections/new-pr...0kv-motors

You know what ... I'm giving up too easily here. Let's see if this works ...

go for t-motor :-)

weird something written by carbon cut on the arm seems very strange to me xD

Oh I'm pretty sure that's part of how they keep track of warranty claims. Before they made you cut something into the carbon and send them a pic. I'm guessing now they just ask you to send a pic of the broken piece if that.

"We were able to retain the warranty on all alumi parts and CF parts except the arms. The spare arms are available for less than 2$ each if you crash and break one."

2$ is an good price but the arms arent under warranty, strange...

Ummagawd 2004 motors (USD $34.5) is interesting but it's a lot more expensive than the T-motors in Australia but the price difference is negligible in US. It's mounted with 2 screws vs 4 screws saving more weight. The choice is easier for me based on $ here.

I remember the designer asking about the whoop FC on rcgroup at the design/prototype stage but it didn't eventuate in production. If not whoop FC, they should have allowed some extra space for the new 16x16mm /20×20mm AIO FC.

Yea I am really surprised they did not provide whoop mounting for a 4 inch micro LR much less holes to use the Tadpole whoop adapter. Even then, I don't think they would have offset it which you really need to do if you still want to use the rear 20x20 stack. I am going to give the whoop mounting a shot with the design I made. It is offset 5mm pushing the tip of the whoop board closer to the camera cage leaving more space in front of the 20x20 stack.

I will do some test fitment with my CLRacing whoop FC and Caddx Loris whoop camera. The rear stack would have the Crossfire nano secured to the bottom plate and a Matek VTX Mini mounted above that on standoffs. I really like the Matek VTX Mini because it has pinio pit mode which is nice when you are waiting for satellite locks.

I am still not confident in 3d printed stack plates much less adapters since it might break or melt or just conduct bad noise vibrations. But let's see if this works. I am using carbon fiber infused PLA for stiffness and will use TPU spacers which has a much higher melting temp. If the mounting works but the plate just melts or breaks, maybe I'll have CNC Madness cut me one out of CF.

If this works, then I will proceed to make this a 4" micro LR with standard 1404's and 4" inch biblades, GPS, etc. I also think I have a good side antenna mounting design.

Well start yer grinnin' and drop yer linen lol ...  





The mount adapter design actually works LOL.





It even turned out that I could get to 3 of the 4 screws LOL so nice. 



That 4th is going to be an epic pain though.  I'm thinking just screw from the top with a TPU washer and the nut at the bottom for that one.

Otherwise I am super stoked with how this came out ...



So I am ditching the idea of a 4" freestyle ripper and just going back to the 4" micro LR again.  It will be heavy but whatever lol.  For motors, likely the T-Motor 1404's.  

Nice work man. You should consider posting your build on Rotorbuild and may be the mount adaptor on thingiverse. 

Thanks guys.  I just sent Nick a message to see if he can cut me some CF ones.  Will def post it on my thingiverse once the build is complete to make sure nothing falls apart.  This 3d printed one is pretty stiff but I'm still not too confident of its structural integrity.  I'm curious what blackbox will tell me.  I also let Wilson over at Armattan know and shared the design.  They really should have incorporated whoop mounting or at a minimum an adapter bracket like they did for their Tadpole.

So for parts, I'm going with what's worked for me so far ...

Flywoo Goku GN745 F7 40A 32-bit AIO Whoop FC (this is the best whoop FC in my opinion for non-tiny whoops)
Caddx 4k Loris (likely switching to Runcam 3 Split Nano since these new 4K whoop cams interfere with RapidFire lock)
Matek VTX Mini (onboard pinio lets me turn the VTX off with a switch while I wait for satellite locks)
Matek M8Q GPS (there really is no alternative as far as reliability goes)
Crossfire Nano (cos ... duh lol)
T-Motor 1404 3800KV (cos ... T-Motor bruh lol)
Gemfan Hurricane 4024 (comes in red to match the trim color on the T-Motors ... why else?  lawls)

But this build will likely be set aside for now.  I just got the Airblade Superman motors to replace the NINs on my Diatone Roma micro LR and looking forward to that since the #3 NIN is acting super sketchy.  Also really liked those Supermans on the my prior Mini Transformer build.  

I'm also expecting some parts for the Robula7 4K ... lol  yea one just never ends.  I got a Jhemcu whoop FC for that with a blackbox so I can do some proper tuning.  I am *REALLY* hoping I can get that guy to take solid HD footage.