Does anyone know the part number, or an equivalent alternate part number, for the 4 pushbutton switches on the iCharger 106B ?

I have two pre-owned chargers that I've been using for about 5 years now.  When I first got them I noticed why they were sold - the switches were starting to become intermittent.  Well, fast forward to today and they're pretty bad.  I've charged hundreds of packs through them - they are great 250W chargers.  I just want to replace those darn switches.

Any help would be appreciated.  If not I'll just try the brute-force method. I emailed Junsi but not sure if they'll respond with info like this.

Did you take off the cover to look inside? I believe many devices simply have a momentary switch soldered onto the PCB. If that is the case then a same sized SMD momentary switch with the same height profile should work. Otherwise if your buttons are mushy and don't make the hard "click" sounds, it could be using those soft silicone membranes, in which case sometimes its possible to recoat the conductive part on the bottom that may have worn down.

I did open one up - they're individual 4-pin tact switches, through hole, with bent/spring/snap-in leads, so I'll have to cut them and de-solder each pin individually.

I'll have to remove these chargers from service for a while, take some measurements of these switches and see what Digikey has to offer. Seemed like these switch failures were common on this model charger for some reason. Just checking to see if anyone already knows what the replacement switch is.

Something like this, the small-tiny version:


There's so many variations ... I've been putting this off for a while ... lazy I guess. Have to match up size/height/dia./shaft, PCB footprint, pinouts, N.O./N.C., etc.

Yup, there will be probably a few thousand different models, but the key is the height of the pushbutton. Although you can always just glue or cut it to fit, but its easier if you get the right spec.

Or if you want bigger buttons, just make yourself an external switch panel, probably easier to solder up as well as you can just run wires to the PCB. So many options

Nice! I was actually thinking of something like that - but yours is way more industrial & rugged ! I could 3d print a little panel/housing and low cost PCBs are just a JLC order away.

Either way I think I have to detach a FET or regulator that’s attached to the bottom plate and smothered in heat sink compound.