So I received my new ZMR-X210 frame in the mail today. Thanks Biggles for getting it out to me so quickly. Since I won this frame from intofpv I'm going to use it to make a tutorial on how I build my quads from start to finish. and answer any questions anyone may have along the way. I could make a video, but I have a face and voice that's better for writing tutorials.    
for this build I will be going with,
ZMR-X210 frame of corse 
Tiger T-Motors MN2204 2300KV motors.
RunCam
SP Racing F3 
LB 30A ESCs
X4R-SB receiver 
RC-Timer FT958 VTX

Worth every second hunting for those eggs.

(19-Jul-2016, 02:41 AM)BigglesFPV Wrote: Worth every second hunting for those eggs.

yah it was. the fun part was explaining to my girlfriend what I was doing and how come I was ignoring her by being on my phone so much lol

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first things first lets unpack the frame and see what we got. why so much hardware? 


next I put the bottom part of the frame together to see how much room there is to work with. if possible I try to leave the standoffs off cause they tend to get in the way when trying to solder.

(19-Jul-2016, 02:50 AM)JimmyLe813 Wrote: yah it was. the fun part was explaining to my girlfriend what I was doing and how come I was ignoring her by being on my phone so much lol

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first things first lets unpack the frame and see what we got. why so much hardware? 


next I put the bottom part of the frame together to see how much room there is to work with. if possible I try to leave the standoffs off cause they tend to get in the way when trying to solder.

Can I tell you a secret?     ....Thanks........  Be careful with carbon fibre on any carpet with synthetic fibres, as you will build up huge amounts of static electricity, and trust me it hurts.  Also not too good on your electronics either.

That was another IntoFPV safety Tip.

(19-Jul-2016, 03:55 AM)BigglesFPV Wrote: Can I tell you a secret?     ....Thanks........  Be careful with carbon fibre on any carpet with synthetic fibres, as you will build up huge amounts of static electricity, and trust me it hurts.  Also not too good on your electronics either.

That was another IntoFPV safety Tip.

lol I set it down on the carpet just to take a pic. if you were to see my table, you would probably think that it's safer on the carpet. but that is a very good point, thanks Biggles.

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next I start soft mounting my electronics and trimming down wires to prepare for soldering. 


I have a Luminier quick swap pdb with 5v bec that I use to bench test my motors and esc's for rotation.

once I figure out the rotation of the motor I start soldering the other ones together. I always use flux when soldering cause it helps the solder flow better, and helps with a better solder joint. I would prefer to use a liquid flux cause it's easier to clean afterwards, but I recently ran out so I'm using this paste flux that I got from Radio Shack. 


so to reverse the rotation on my motors what I do is switch the outside wires from the motor to the esc. so when it's laid flat the wires aren't crossed. I know you're probably saying why don't I just do it in BLHeli? I've been told that can cause desync issues on certain esc's. so I feel it's just better to let the hardware do it.

Jimmy......good to know about the desync issues. Do you know which ESC's are affected? That is exactly what I was going to do on my build as it makes for a cleaner installation.

(19-Jul-2016, 04:08 PM)sirdude Wrote: Jimmy......good to know about the desync issues. Do you know which ESC's are affected?  That is exactly what I was going to do on my build as it makes for a cleaner installation.

I was told that it's common on the DYS XM series. but considering these are suppose to be a better ESC with a faster processor, I personally think it's better to switch two wires rather than using BLHeli.

Looking good so far, did you prepare the carbon in any way? I usually don't bother.

Thanks Jimmy...good to know. I accidently put one of mine in wrong on my ZMR 250 and when I discovered it instead of taking it all out and resolding etc, I just switched it in BLheli and I've had no problems. It was a RotorGeeks 20A ESC. I'll do a little research on the ones I've got now before I do that.

(19-Jul-2016, 06:52 PM)HamsterFPV Wrote: Looking good so far, did you prepare the carbon in any way? I usually don't bother.

for the most part I don't, just where the power leads go through.

after I'm done soldering the motors to the esc's I wrap them with heatshrink. 


then I'll mount the motor and heatshrink the esc to the arm. I always use loctite thread locker on the motor mounting screws to make sure they don't come lose and rattle out. don't wanna lose a motor mid flight. I also make sure the screws I'm using aren't to long that they bottom out and make contact with the coils in the motor.

now that I have the motors and esc's all mounted and soldered in place it's time for the flight controller, reciever, and fpv stuff. oh I forgot to mention that when soldering your components always, I repeat always check your positive and negative wires. don't be the guy (or girl) with the "why did my esc catch fire?" post. only to find out later that you had your wires crossed. 

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now normally I would solder all my wires directly to the flight controller, but if you're justing starting out, or not comfortable with soldering I would advise using the pin headers. just for the simple fact that things will go wrong, you are going crash. so by using pin headers it makes it easier to trouble shoot and switch things out.

once I have the pin headers soldered on, I jump pins 5 and 6 on the IO_2 connector for telemetry. you could always just connect the two wires together but I prefer doing it this way cause it makes for a cleaner build. 


next I'll depin the receiver, I do this by using some cutters and cutting all the pins on the top row off first. then I'll just remove each pin one at a time. 


next I'll remove all the wires that I'm no longer using from the connector and solder it directly to the the X4R receiver so it looks like this.

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once connected to the flight controller, it's only a 4 wire connection, and the receiver is still removable if ever came a time I need to remove it.

Love the detailed progress reports.. Keep them coming.