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Wizard x220 flips out
#1
Hi, I have a wizard x220 and I semi recently put new DYS XSD 20 amp escs on it. It worked okay for awhile with the only problem being at full throttle the front right arm would dip. About 2 weeks later out of nowhere when I went full throttle it would do flips and crash. I changed it from dshot 600 to 300 and now when I do a roll it keeps rolling and crashes. I also clipped off the small black wires on the escs because the original escs didn't use them and I didn't know where to solder them to. I'm also a terrible solderer. I don't know if the black wires were needed or if maybe the flight controller doesn't work with dshot, or maybe something vibrated out of place. Any way any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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#2
I think the pro's will need pictures of the esc's and the black wires you spoke of. Also if you have any blackbox logs that could be helpful.
Flying: Talon 6S 6" 2407s 381g no bat, Martian 3, 5" 2205s sooo heavy + gopro session 5 573g AUW, Aurora 5" 2205s 280g no bat, Druckbaer 3" 1404s 172g AUW 3S 550, BQE Megapixel 2.5" 1107s 139g AUW 3S 550, BabyHawk R 2.5" 164g AUW 3S 550 (stock except microeagle, CRSF, 2.5" arms) and maybe 3 more, for now...
 




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#3
(02-Nov-2017, 12:52 AM)McDee Wrote: [Image: aZnmv8el.jpg][Image: EvYklMRl.jpg]I think the pro's will need pictures of the esc's and the black wires you spoke of. Also if you have any blackbox logs that could be helpful.

The pictures won't upload. It says they're to big. Unless I just can't see them.
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#4
Those are the signal ground wires and it's an ongoing debate as to whether they're needed or not. I don't use them and have never had an issue. Regardless it doesn't sound like this is causing your problem, sounds more like a classic desync issue. This may help

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#5
It is not good enough to just put a single layer of electrical tape around your frame and strap the naked ESC to the arm like that! Are there even some double sided foam pads under the ESCs?

You need to insulate the ESCs properly before something shorts out. Also, if you get any water on them, they will do very strange things.

What prompted you to change the ESCs in the first place?
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#6
(02-Nov-2017, 09:19 AM)unseen Wrote: It is not good enough to just put a single layer of electrical tape around your frame and strap the naked ESC to the arm like that! Are there even some double sided foam pads under the ESCs?

You need to insulate the ESCs properly before something shorts out. Also, if you get any water on them, they will do very strange things.

What prompted you to change the ESCs in the first place?

I took the electric tape I had wrapped around them off to show you guys, sorry I probably should have told you that. The reason I changed the escs is because I burnt one of the old ones out, so I figured I'd just put all four new ones on while I was at it.
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#7
I see...

Is there anything underneath the ESC other than a layer of tape? If not, you should at least place some foam tape under them as the vibration can easily damage the ceramic capacitor on the bottom of the ESC.

As to why you're suddenly getting these problems when it was working before, I don't really know what to say. Maybe you do need the ground wires in this case. If something on the quad has started to produce more electrical noise, the lack of a signal ground could present a problem.

So, if you've tried everything in the video that RENOV8R linked to, you might try adding them back.
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#8
(02-Nov-2017, 02:08 PM)unseen Wrote: I see...

Is there anything underneath the ESC other than a layer of tape? If not, you should at least place some foam tape under them as the vibration can easily damage the ceramic capacitor on the bottom of the ESC.

As to why you're suddenly getting these problems when it was working before, I don't really know what to say. Maybe you do need the ground wires in this case. If something on the quad has started to produce more electrical noise, the lack of a signal ground could present a problem.

So, if you've tried everything in the video that RENOV8R linked to, you might try adding them back.

Okay, thanks I'll try the tape first.
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#9
(02-Nov-2017, 02:08 PM)unseen Wrote: I see...

Is there anything underneath the ESC other than a layer of tape? If not, you should at least place some foam tape under them as the vibration can easily damage the ceramic capacitor on the bottom of the ESC.

As to why you're suddenly getting these problems when it was working before, I don't really know what to say. Maybe you do need the ground wires in this case. If something on the quad has started to produce more electrical noise, the lack of a signal ground could present a problem.

So, if you've tried everything in the video that RENOV8R linked to, you might try adding them back.

I just went and flew it. It seems like it slowly starts speeding up after a certain point. For example if I do a roll to the right it keeps rolling faster and faster like it's trying to stop rolling but is speeding up instead of slowing itself down. What I meant by certain point is it only happens if I use more than 60% of the stick.
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#10
At this point I'd say blackbox data would be really helpful.
Flying: Talon 6S 6" 2407s 381g no bat, Martian 3, 5" 2205s sooo heavy + gopro session 5 573g AUW, Aurora 5" 2205s 280g no bat, Druckbaer 3" 1404s 172g AUW 3S 550, BQE Megapixel 2.5" 1107s 139g AUW 3S 550, BabyHawk R 2.5" 164g AUW 3S 550 (stock except microeagle, CRSF, 2.5" arms) and maybe 3 more, for now...
 




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#11
(02-Nov-2017, 02:08 PM)unseen Wrote: I see...

Is there anything underneath the ESC other than a layer of tape? If not, you should at least place some foam tape under them as the vibration can easily damage the ceramic capacitor on the bottom of the ESC.

As to why you're suddenly getting these problems when it was working before, I don't really know what to say. Maybe you do need the ground wires in this case. If something on the quad has started to produce more electrical noise, the lack of a signal ground could present a problem.

So, if you've tried everything in the video that RENOV8R linked to, you might try adding them back.

I'm going to try the esc small ground wire first. Can they just go to the same pad as the big esc ground wire?
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#12
(03-Nov-2017, 04:04 AM)Emmettman Wrote: I'm going to try the esc small ground wire first. Can they just go to the same pad as the big esc ground wire?

Yes, but I agree with McDee that what is needed is more information.

What you are describing does not sound like any problem which would be caused by poor grounding. If the craft does strange things in flight like not following your stick inputs properly, there is something else wrong.

If you can post the output of the 'diff' command in the CLI, plus a black box log that shows your problem with the roll not terminating when you centre the stick, we'll have much more to work with.
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#13
(03-Nov-2017, 09:36 AM)unseen Wrote: Yes, but I agree with McDee that what is needed is more information.

What you are describing does not sound like any problem which would be caused by poor grounding. If the craft does strange things in flight like not following your stick inputs properly, there is something else wrong.

If you can post the output of the 'diff' command in the CLI, plus a black box log that shows your problem with the roll not terminating when you centre the stick, we'll have much more to work with.

How do I get to the diff command?
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#14
Go to the CLI, type diff and hit enter. Here's a good article on the diff command by Oscar

https://oscarliang.com/use-diff-not-dump-betaflight/
[-] The following 1 user Likes RENOV8R's post:
  • Oscar
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#15
(04-Nov-2017, 10:52 PM)Emmettman Wrote: How do I get to the diff command?

(05-Nov-2017, 12:06 AM)RENOV8R Wrote: Go to the CLI, type diff and hit enter. Here's a good article on the diff command by Oscar

https://oscarliang.com/use-diff-not-dump-betaflight/

Thanks!
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