I got the matek PDB and try to solder everything together and the 5v pads od the board are so small that i realized i will be easier to just solder the straight pins and connect power through them. It will be plug and play solution if I crash. Probably ESCs need thicker wires (because the voltage is a lot higher) that's why they are need to be solder but is it bad idea to use pin headers to provide power from pdb?

Hi Netox.

I cannot speak for everyone, but soldering directly to the pdb provides a much cleaner, solid and reliable connection. Header pins are good, but I will only use them on some FC's if and only if I have enough room in the frame to do so. and I only use header pins as it provides me with a quick and easy no mess method of removing the FC should I need to do work on the PDB.

I solder the cables directly to the PDB. I don't like pins because they steal a lot of precious space and I'm always afraid that they will loosen during a flight. Do you want to use pin headers for powering your ESCs as well?

I also direct solder everything, but that's just a matter of preference. Nothing wrong in using pins.
ESC power leads have to be soldered to pads, but you can do whatever you want with 5v/12v regulated power, you can use pins as current for your FPV/FC gear here should be so small that it doesn't really matter.

Well said Konrad. There is actually an issue with direct soldering and that is the cable can break at the solder joint, especially those really thin VTX cables. I normally reinforce the joint/cable with some hot glue if I think it can be a potential problem

I had a lot of problems with breaking crappy VTX/camera wires, so I have a better solution for you than using messy hot glue. I make a short "pigtail" with a multistrand servo wire and solder on those crappy cables to it. It works a lot better as stress relief. I use this wire, it's perfect: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ouse_.html

It looks like this:

Good tip!

My general rule of thumb is to direct solder everything I can and still separate the FC, Cam, and VTx from the quad "relatively easily" without desoldering anything.  That usually means several pins on the FC, and very few on the PDB.  I always direct solder motor to esc, and esc power/ground to PDB. (That's what I call "quad guts" - my avatar.)

(30-Aug-2016, 10:11 AM)sloscotty Wrote: My general rule of thumb is to direct solder everything I can and still separate the FC, Cam, and VTx from the quad "relatively easily" without desoldering anything.  That usually means several pins on the FC, and very few on the PDB.  I always direct solder motor to esc, and esc power/ground to PDB. (That's what I call "quad guts" - my avatar.)

This is exactly how I do my electronics, FPV separate from power system.

(30-Aug-2016, 09:32 AM)Konrad Stepanajtys Wrote: I had a lot of problems with breaking crappy VTX/camera wires, so I have a better solution for you than using messy hot glue. I make a short "pigtail" with a multistrand servo wire and solder on those crappy cables to it. It works a lot better as stress relief. I use this wire, it's perfect: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ouse_.html

It looks like this:

Thanks for the tip Konrad. Went to order some of it and their web site is telling me that it comes from their EU warehouse and they can't ship it to me (USA) from there?? Said to use the same SKU # but use their western warehouse. OF couse...it doesn't recognize the SKU in the western warehouse (grrrr).

(30-Aug-2016, 12:44 PM)sirdude Wrote: Thanks for the tip Konrad.  Went to order some of it and their web site is telling me that it comes from their EU warehouse and they can't ship it to me (USA) from there??  Said to use the same SKU # but use their western warehouse.  OF couse...it doesn't recognize the SKU in the western warehouse (grrrr).

It's available in both east and west warehouses - posting search links because they have different lenghts in offer.

(30-Aug-2016, 12:49 PM)Konrad Stepanajtys Wrote: It's available in both east and west warehouses - posting search links because they have different lenghts in offer.

Hmmm...when I tried to find it at the west house, it didn't show up...even searched for it...no luck. I was obviously doing something wrong. Thanks Konrad, this is exactly what I have been looking for . : )

The more builds I do, the more i realize I barely remove the wires from PDB.
it's just easier when building the quad, by soldering the wires directly on it.
It also saves weight, and money buying extra header pins.

I didn't read all the responses but the few I did I agree with .
I solder everything I possibly can .
It's more durable ...simple as that . It also allows more room for stacking boards if you must.
For instance I have my main pdb
Then another pdb with 5v and 12v regulated and then my naze rev 6 fc all stacked in a little alien 5"

The only plugs I have is the esc plugs to the fc the taranis reciever and the 5v power to the fc .

i stared with pins as i had exactly 0 knowledge of soldering... soldering a pin to a hole was a dream.... soldering ANYTHING to a pad was a night mare (one of the reasons was sodering iron 60W)...

with time i've bought weaker iron... still to strong but this one at last doesn't burn through the pads...
after some time i've realized few things... "how often do you deplug the cables once done correctly?" for me answer is only if something breaks (now you can flash esc through fc so it is even easier...)

with contionus builiding i've came to few realizations... pins are cool.... but they take space and make additional weight...
initial built was zmr 250... and it was a tight fit with everything inside (los ready by that time)... at that time i didn't knew it all could be lighter, shorter (omg cutting a cable short... what if???), direct soldered (i'll burn the pad!!!!)

now everything is direct soldered... sometimes it kicks me in the ass if i have a new FC and i mixup something...
what i can recommend.... go with pins for now... if it makes you more comfortable... with time you will realize that it is obsolete... and you might switch to direct solder... do so when you can easily solder tiny stuff