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Want to make other quads fly like eachine E010
#1
Forgive me if this has been covered elsewhere on the forum.  I did search and could not locate anything on this specific topic.

I recently picked up a few of the eachine tiny whoop clones (E010) and was pleasantly amazed by its flight characteristics  - specifically, how accurately it stays on course (tracks), and how it stops and freezes in place the instant the right stick (mode-2) is centered.

All of my other quads will continue to slide in the direction of travel for several feet before stopping when centering the right stick.

My question: I would like to know how to tune my other quads to stop on a dime like the E010 does.  I suspect it's a PID setting, but I could not locate any info on the stock PID's for the E010 (or the H8 mini).  If anyone can shed some light / point me in the right direction, it would be most appreciated!

My ultimate goal is to get the eachine H8 mini to handle like the E010.  I think the H8 is a great, super-fast FPV platform for outdoors, but it's a bit squirrelly indoors.  If I can get the H8 to track like the E010, I'll be super thrilled.
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#2
Part of it is just the platform - those ducts and smaller props make it a slower quad that's better suited for cruising around. The H8 is zippppppppyyyy ... barely works (for me) indoors. But does great outdoors (durr you just said that...)

PID settings aren't really something you can change on either quad* and probably dont have TOO much to do with it.

Have you tried just trimming out your H8 so it hovers in place without any input? The little buttons on the controller below and to the left of the right stick should do it (the one under the left stick is for changing the rates). Alternatively, you can recalibrate the gyro on the H8 - there are some stick commands for it ... like ... both sticks down and left or. or down and right... down and something! I think the lights blink when you do it. Has to be down on a level surface with the quad also leveled - can be tricky with those foam feet.

Either way ... trim should probably take care of it.

*You can install alternative firmware on the H8 that will allow you to edit the PID values.... but that's another story... takes a bit of work. well worth it though when you're ready. If you're ever interested: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthre...o-firmware

LOL - sooooooooo helpful ............

but seriously - I swear there's a way to calibrate the gryo with the stock controller / firmware.
[Image: 1FzMFRSl.png]
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#3
I believe that e010 calibration goes like this:
Left stick: bottom left
Right stick: bottom right
After you hold both like this leds will start blinking. It should stay level during this procedure
Find me on Youtube and Instagram. I currently fly: DRC Aura, NOX5R, Minimalist 112 and drive a scrap RC car
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#4
Thanks CS. And yeah, I know about trimming, gyro cal, etc. But even a perfectly trimmed and cal'd H8 (or the eachine QX's) will slide for 2-6 feet after stick center, which is fine outdoors.

The E010 definitely has a unique tune - you can get it going in a full speed descent and it literally stops on a dime. It was weird to get used to at first, but now I'm really liking it.

Hoping some PID guru sees this and has some pointers to share. I do have an STM-Link on order so I can hopefully access and mod the H8's FW.

Would like to similarly get my QX's dialed in to fly tight like the E010 now that it's freezing outside. Obviously I could experiment in Cleanflight, but thought someone might be able to provide some direction with regard to PID's.



(08-Dec-2016, 01:36 AM)CesiumSalami Wrote: Part of it is just the platform - those ducts and smaller props make it a slower quad that's better suited for cruising around. The H8 is zippppppppyyyy ... barely works (for me) indoors. But does great outdoors (durr you just said that...)

PID settings aren't really something you can change on either quad* and probably dont have TOO much to do with it.

Have you tried just trimming out your H8 so it hovers in place without any input? The little buttons on the controller below and to the left of the right stick should do it (the one under the left stick is for changing the rates). Alternatively, you can recalibrate the gyro on the H8 - there are some stick commands for it ... like ... both sticks down and left or. or down and right... down and something! I think the lights blink when you do it. Has to be down on a level surface with the quad also leveled - can be tricky with those foam feet.

Either way ... trim should probably take care of it.

*You can install alternative firmware on the H8 that will allow you to edit the PID values.... but that's another story... takes a bit of work. well worth it though when you're ready. If you're ever interested: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthre...o-firmware

LOL - sooooooooo helpful ............

but seriously - I swear there's a way to calibrate the gryo with the stock controller / firmware.
[Image: 1FzMFRSl.png]
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#5
(08-Dec-2016, 06:52 AM)RadJohn Wrote: Thanks CS.  And yeah, I know about trimming, gyro cal, etc. But even a perfectly trimmed and cal'd H8 (or the eachine QX's) will slide for 2-6 feet after stick center, which is fine outdoors.

The E010 definitely has a unique tune - you can get it going in a full speed descent and it literally stops on a dime.  It was weird to get used to at first, but now I'm really liking it.

Hoping some PID guru sees this and has some pointers to share. I do have an STM-Link on order so I can hopefully access and mod the H8's FW.

Would like to similarly get my QX's dialed in to fly tight like the E010 now that it's freezing outside. Obviously I could experiment in Cleanflight, but thought someone might be able to provide some direction with regard to PID's.

Oh cool! Yeah the alt firmware is a blast.  If you have an H8 with a blue board - it's finicky. Also, be very careful with those contacts you solder to - they're are soooooooooooooo fragile. You'll rip them off with the slightest effort.

I do think that the ducts behave as you'd expect ducts to behave despite that everyone says they're just for protection - this should mean that, with ducts, the quad actually "wants" to be level due to aerodynamics regardless of tuning.

But in cleanflight for angle/horizon mode you can up the auto-leveling strength before you even start touching PID settings.
For PID changes you could start by decreasing your I values. Maybe?
Oscar has a nice writeup here: https://oscarliang.com/understanding-pid...rc-flight/
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#6
Ah, interesting - thanks for pointing out the Auto-Leveling parameter in CF! I haven't had a chance to dive into CF yet, but I hope to be able to do a lot of experimenting on a QX90 this weekend.

And I'm with you on the ducts possibly having something to do with how locked-in the E010's are. To test that theory, I'll transplant an E010 FCB in an H8 chassis this weekend and we'll see!

Thanks again for your input on this - will report back once I've had a chance to do the above.
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#7
(08-Dec-2016, 09:49 PM)RadJohn Wrote: And I'm with you on the ducts possibly having something to do with how locked-in the E010's are.  To test that theory, I'll transplant an E010 FCB in an H8 chassis this weekend and we'll see!

Look forward to your results...
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#8
The verdict is in; the ducted fans are totally responsible for the super-stable flight characteristics of the E010. Rather than trying to mount the E010's FCB in the H8 frame, I reckoned it would be easier to simply remove the fan cages from the E's. Once removed, the E's slid around just as much as a stock H8 and totally lost their locked-in tracking.
[-] The following 3 users Like RadJohn's post:
  • Tom BD Bad, CesiumSalami, fftunes
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#9
Also the high RPM of the motor/props helps stabilizing the quad faster I believe. The E010 also uses self-level mode which also adds some level of stabilization to its flight characteristics
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