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Video goes black after throttle!
#16
Yep, cut the flight controller out of the picture and see if the camera still cuts out.
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#17
(28-Sep-2017, 01:26 PM)unseen Wrote: Yep, cut the flight controller out of the picture and see if the camera still cuts out.

Its still cutting out, guess its a new fc  Sad
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#18
Should getting a new fc fix the problem?
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#19
If you cut the FC out and are still having the video drop, then I doubt its the FC that is causing the FPV problems. Did you try adding a cap?
Windless fields and smokeless builds
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#20
Well, the flight controller is still what's supplying 5V to the camera, so maybe the flight controller's 5V regulator drops low enough that the camera cuts out.

The HS1177 is capable of being powered directly from the flight battery but they are known to be sensitive to voltage spikes from the ESCs.

I'd suggest powering the camera with a 7805 or 7809 linear regulator. They are very small and as the camera only draws 70mA, a linear regulator won't get hot supplying that small current.
[-] The following 1 user Likes unseen's post:
  • McDee
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#21
I recently rebuilt an old quad and had the same problem - 5v dropped too low under load and cam blacked out. Fixed it by powering camera directly from battery, and for safety added a cap to the filter.
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  • unseen
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#22
(29-Sep-2017, 04:16 PM)fftunes Wrote: I recently rebuilt an old quad and had the same problem - 5v dropped too low under load and cam blacked out. Fixed it by powering camera directly from battery, and for safety added a cap to the filter.

I recently finished putting my Rebel 220 back together after fixing the minor damage that my hard landing in Greece caused. While I was there, I swapped out the Unify Pro HV for the smaller Unify Pro. Now my camera just gives flashing lines of black and white underneath the OSD overlay. It looks like it's constantly rebooting.

I have a Betaflight F3 powering the camera and VTX and I suspect that I'm also suffering from low voltage. Most cameras run at 3.3V internally and use a linear LDO regulator to provide the 3.3V. Even though they're low dropout regulators, I think most of them need at least 1.2V more than they are expected to deliver, so if the input voltage drops under 4.5V, things will shut down.

The camera was still working after the crash, so I don't think I damaged the camera itself.

Rather than fit another regulator, I might try powering the camera from the 12V BEC that's provided by the DYS 4-in-1 ESC. Considering how tight the build is already, I don't have room for another regulator!
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  • fftunes
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#23
Ive ordered a matek f405 aio which has a clean 9v and 5v for the camera and vtx, that should fix the problem. The chameleon has no room for a liner regulator inside.
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#24
I squeezed a buck converter into the chameleon, no problem.
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  • unseen
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#25
I reckon I have killed my camera. I tried turning the VTX to Pit Mode and the camera still refused to give me a picture. When I put my scope on the 5V input to the camera, it was down to 4V and pulsing up and down between 3.8 and 4.0V. Once I disconnected the camera, the 5V supply bounced right back to 5V.

What did impress me was the fact that the Unify Pro would still work with a pulsing 4V power supply!

Now I have to dismantle the quad again to remove the camera wiring so that I can give it a test outside of the quad. As the camera is the only Foxeer Arrow that I have, I don't have any spare connector to wire it up to a monitor and my bench supply. I'll have to see if I can fit a smaller Picoblade connector in the socket without bending the unused pins...
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#26
Very strange. My camera works just fine if I disconnect it from the quad and power it up with 5V from my bench supply.

The more I use these flight controllers with integrated 5V regulators, the less I like them.
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  • fftunes
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