I remember this problem being mentioned here somewhere but I can't remember where I read it.

Basically when I increase the throttle the screen goes black / fuzzy and when I kill the throttle, the video feed starts working normal again. I don't know if the battery current discharge is too small but it's 25C.
I'm only standing 2m away from it too.

Using this setup
I can link the screen and receiver if you really need but I don't think that would be the problem?

Feed cutting out on high throttle means that the camera and/or VTX need an LC-filter.
Odd though, I didn't have such issues on my Racer 250, most likely thanks to all the caps on the board.
Only got that issue once I transferred the parts to a new quad (ie, not using the same PDB any more).

I had a bad 5V regulator on mine. It fried a couple of FCs and a bunch of other things. If you want to keep on using it, I would suggest you get a proper PDB with good voltage regulators and filtering and just use the bottom plate as a structure part and power your camera, vtx and FC from the new PDB instead

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I remember one problem I had was when giving full throttle, there was a huge voltage drop on the 5V, so the FC restarted.

That happens on your transmitter side, so VRX/monitor has nothing to do with this.

You simply need to filter the power on your quad. This article is old, but it shows how to do it in its basic form: https://oscarliang.com/lc-filter-fpv/
What you can do on your quad is to solder a single 470-1000uf 25V (for 3s) or 35V (for 4s) low ESR capacitor on this PDB - to a battery or ESC connector pads. Or even better - on your video transmitter and camera leads. Sorry I can't tell you anything more specific as I don't know the specification of those components - mainly voltage they require.

(21-Sep-2016, 12:09 PM)Konrad Stepanajtys Wrote: That happens on your transmitter side, so VRX/monitor has nothing to do with this.

You simply need to filter the power on your quad. This article is old, but it shows how to do it in its basic form: https://oscarliang.com/lc-filter-fpv/
What you can do on your quad is to solder a single 470-1000uf 25V (for 3s) or 35V (for 4s) low ESR capacitor on this PDB - to a battery or ESC connector pads. Or even better - on your video transmitter and camera leads. Sorry I can't tell you anything more specific as I don't know the specification of those components - mainly voltage they require.

The board should already have 4 x 470uf capacitors on the bottom plate/PDB. It is not uncommon that they get knocked off that frame in a crash, or they are not working. You could try to change the caps

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Building an LC filter to filter out the frequencies which would be the motor RPM is a bit complicated because you're anywhere between 0Hz and like, 60,000Hz or something?
Unless you're really talking about making a simple RC filter or a band pass filter (RLC)

What about sticking a cap between the LiPo connector and the PDB? In your experience does that change anything?
I'd rather avoid having to swap out all the 25V 470uF caps for now since it's a bit annoying

Quote:The board should already have 4 x 470uf capacitors on the bottom plate/PDB. It is not uncommon that they get knocked off that frame in a crash, or they are not working. You could try to change the caps

Do you know what that On/Off switch on the bottom right of your PDB does?

Don't overthink it, I don't know a lot about electricity, filter types, noise frequencies etc., but I know for sure that a low ESR cap on battery leads stops noise from killing fun in FPV Go for it.

Check this video in this thread, it has a bit more of "scientific approach":

http://intofpv.com/t-filtering-out-esc-n...tor-choice

(22-Sep-2016, 12:36 PM)tecnix Wrote: Building an LC filter to filter out the frequencies which would be the motor RPM is a bit complicated because you're anywhere between 0Hz and like, 60,000Hz or something?
Unless you're really talking about making a simple RC filter or a band pass filter (RLC)

What about sticking a cap between the LiPo connector and the PDB? In your experience does that change anything?
I'd rather avoid having to swap out all the 25V 470uF caps for now since it's a bit annoying

Do you know what that On/Off switch on the bottom right of your PDB does?

If I remember correctly, it is to turn on and off the leds

Other possibility is having a ground issue,
Please check that your every component has a direct ground to pdb. In my case this was a solution beside the lf filter

Well I checked the grounding for all the stuff which made sense to check and which I could see. They were all connected to ground except the front LEDs which I didn't care about. Plus I think they were stepped down from the 12V anyway.

I put a 220uF across the Battery terminals and that didn't help.

Soldered some electrolytic 470uF across the +/- of the ESCs, which I think are in parallel to the 470uF already on there (you can see in oyvinla's photo), and that didn't help. Not sure how much difference it'll make since that'll increase total capacitance to 940uF assuming the ones already on there are working, otherwise it'll be 470uF if it's not working.

Quote:Don't overthink it, I don't know a lot about electricity, filter types, noise frequencies etc., but I know for sure that a low ESR cap on battery leads stops noise from killing fun in FPV Smile Go for it.

Check this video in this thread, it has a bit more of "scientific approach":

http://intofpv.com/t-filtering-out-esc-n...tor-choice

After watching it, I laughed at how stupidly primitive the solution was for the voltage spiking problem. All that effort he went to setup the experiments with the complicated extras ended up showing that the cheapest and easiest fix was adding a single huge cap.
I really want to try that next and hope it fixes my problem. I still have some doubts though because of all the curved wiring going everywhere does actually introduce some inductance into the circuit. It's not the same as straight tracks on a PCB.

Also he mistakenly said he was using a ceramic cap halfway through the video which you could see was electrolytic (the silver cap+inductor combo). You don't want to connect the wrong polarity on an electrolytic otherwise it'll blow up in your face.

Well if the cap didn't help, it might be voltage drop.

What voltage to the vtx and/or camera? Sometimes they have internal stepdowns which don't work well with 5v for example.

Not much else i could think of.

(24-Sep-2016, 01:12 PM)fftunes Wrote: Well if the cap didn't help, it might be voltage drop.

What voltage to the vtx and/or camera? Sometimes they have internal stepdowns which don't work well with 5v for example.

Not much else i could think of.

Like I mentioned earlier, I had problems with the 5 volt regulator on that quad, so I would not be surprised if the PDB /bottom plate is causing the issues

(24-Sep-2016, 02:43 PM)oyvinla Wrote: Like I mentioned earlier, I had problems with the 5 volt regulator on that quad, so I would not be surprised if the PDB /bottom plate is causing the issues

What exactly about the pcb is the issue? the tracks breaking? The via's not connecting gnd between the multiple layers?
Did you replace the regulator in the end? Do you know the P/N of it?

I don't have any spare parts right now to just use the PCB as the base plate and use a separate PDB. Also the connectors are very integrated with the custom naze32 as you know, so I also need to order basically a new set of internals for the entire quad lol.

I don't know exactly what the issue was, but when flying, it could suddenly just go dead and fall out of the sky. The fc restarted and everything went back to normal. After a while the fc started to get really hot, and the voltage to the fc dropped to about 3 volt, causing the fc to restart. Same thing happened when connecting the fc to the computer, it got really hot and was drawing too much current. I changed the fc to a new different fc, but after just a couple of flights, I got the same problem as earlier. Now this fc was getting super hot. After that, I installed a separate 5v BEC and a new fc, and the problem went away.

alright, I guess i have a place to start looking now.
Also what size BEC did you get? max current rating?