Hi Guys and Gals...

I will be starting a new build soon and thought I would go ahead and post a few pics of the components and a parts list.  I will probably be several weeks before I complete it as I have a few other irons in the fire at the moment.  Once I'm finished I'll come back and post a few pics.  Here we go......

Frame: Pyro-Drone Hyperlite FLOSS "2" Racing Frame - 5.5"
FC: BARDWELL F4 FLIGHT CONTROLLER - AIO FC **** OR **** Holybro Kakute F4 AIO.  Still up in the air as to which one I'll use......I don't know  that I'll have the clearance with the Holybro due to the elevated gyro.

ESC: SPEDIX 30A 4 IN 1 ESC

RX: FRSKY R-XSR RECEIVER

VTX: Mach 1 Video Transmitter - 25/200/600m

FPV Camera: RunCam Micro Swift 2

Motors: EMAX LITE SPEC LS2206 2300KV RACING / FREESTYLE MOTOR

Props:  Cyclone 5040 Freestyle DAL Prop - 5" Tri Blade (or whatever I can scrounge  up at the time.)

Comments/Suggestions?

That's a nice set of components! It should be a fast one with that ultra light frame.

There looks to be plenty of room between the lower and upper plates, so I reckon you'll be able to fit either flight controller in a two board stack.

(16-Jan-2018, 08:47 AM)unseen Wrote: That's a nice set of components! It should be a fast one with that ultra light frame.

There looks to be plenty of room between the lower and upper plates, so I reckon you'll be able to fit either flight controller in a two board stack.

I normally try and get everything in one stack (VTX and RX as well).  IF the Holybro prevents me from stacking everything due to it's extra height, then I use the JB FC, if not, I may use the Holybro and save the other one for my next build.  Additionally, there are two ways to put that frame together, one offering about 4mm more clearance then the other.  I would like to use the lower profile configuration, but if it makes the difference between stacking everything in one stack, I'll probably go with taller frame option.

Looking forward to that, i am interested what the final weight would be as I am also planning building a light weight racer.
If you are using the JBF4, love to hear your thought on it as how easy it is to build and reliability.

(18-Jan-2018, 01:23 PM)Oscar Wrote: Looking forward to that, i am interested what the final weight would be as I am also planning building a light weight racer.
If you are using the JBF4, love to hear your thought on it as how easy it is to build and reliability.

Will report back......if I run into any significant problems, I'll post about 'em.

Hey Folks......

Finished the Hyperlite Floss 2, 5 inch build today.......well sort of.  I'm EDIT(not)EDIT doing a build log in the strictest sense of the term...I have a few comments and I will interject them along the way.  There is not a lot of room in this frame and had it not been for R-XSR, I may not have been able to get everything on the stack.  





There are three ways to wire the Joshua Bardwell to a 4 in 1 ESC.  The first is easy...just parallel it off on the incoming power for the ESC.  Only problem is the current sensor wont work.  The next method will leave you with a working current sensor, but the wiring is complicated.  The third method involves pretty simple wiring, but is more challenging to solider, but the current sensor will work.  I set mine up using the third method where you have to solider a wire to the load side of the currents sensor shunt resistor.... little more trouble but in my opinion, worth it.
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sensor shunt resistor





























I really screwed the pooch on the  VTX antenna set up.  Not quite sure what I was thinking. There is not a lot of room in this build and I was trying to move  the mount outside the frame, but this is an unacceptable arrangement for this frame.  I have more work to do.

The AUW (w/o battery) is 290 grams....came in a bit heavier then I expected.  

Very tidy and very light! My Rooster is nearly 100g heavier without a battery.

I hope your R-XSR works better than mine does!

(29-Jan-2018, 08:49 AM)unseen Wrote: Very tidy and very light! My Rooster is nearly 100g heavier without a battery.

I hope your R-XSR works better than mine does!

Yeah, I've been following your thread.  Seems lost of folks are having problem with them.  I'll post back after I get it bound and have a chance to use it.

Awesome build 290g, a bit heavier than I expected, probably because of the 2206 motors and the new version Floss weight has gone up a fair bit from the last version.
A lot of people have chosen 1806 motor with two-blade props for this type of ultra light racers, seems to work alright

(01-Feb-2018, 02:47 PM)Oscar Wrote: Awesome build 290g, a bit heavier than I expected, probably because of the 2206 motors and the new version Floss weight has gone up a fair bit from the last version.
A lot of people have chosen 1806 motor with two-blade props for this type of ultra light racers, seems to work alright

I had that thought before starting the build, but decided to go with the larger motors for the additional thrust with three blade props.  Probably wont be as fast as one with lighter motors and two blades props...but either way, it'll be faster then my abilities can handle.

What about a compromise using a 2204?

(05-Feb-2018, 04:55 PM)Propflux01 Wrote: What about a compromise using a 2204?

Its all about balance....The smaller motors make it lighter so the thrust you might lose because of the smaller motors and bi-blade props is offset by the machines lighter weight.  It makes it more agile and depending on what you're running, it can actually be faster.  This is a racing frame, but I fly acro and proximity (mainly proximity) so I opted for the more powerful motors  with tri-blade props.  However, I may go ahead and get some smaller higher kv motors and try them just to see what the difference is.  Your suggestion of 2204's may be a good one, but I am not sure there would be a significant savings in weight.  Like I said, I can't fly up to the capabilities of either setup anyway.