Posts: 16 Threads: 4 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 6 Joined: Apr 2020 Reputation: 0  11-Apr-2020, 01:49 PM Good day everyone, Now I got more spare time I decided to make the drones I ordered some time ago. I recently made my TinyWhoop and found the problem it had. After that the Tyro79 was up for modification. I broke some components of the old VTX while screwing it, so I ordered a new one. I also ordered a new camera because the one that came with the drone didnt have OSD, it's Foxeer camera. Now when I tried to do the maiden flight, everything seemed OK when I took off. After a few meters I received so much breakup I crashed, because I couldn't orientate myself anymore. After reading some forum posts I increased the vtx_power in BF from 1 to 2 and installed brand new props. The next flight had the very same problems, but this time I made a DVR recording so you can see what's going on. Now I'm just too afraid to fly it, because the minute I take off I know it's lost.. I've made some photos of the build; https://ibb.co/album/dVAYbF DVR recording of the flight: DVR recording of just after the flight, you can really see how bad it is: Anyone able to help me? Thanks in advance! ![[-]](https://intofpv.com/images/collapse.png) • Posts: 668 Threads: 31 Likes Received: 208 in 158 posts Likes Given: 95 Joined: Feb 2019 Reputation: 14 Did you power the new vtx/cam combo from vbat?
If you can do it. I had problems with my onboard regulator on my tyro 99. I just gone vbat and everything is fine. Just check the voltage rating of your vtx/cam. Posts: 12,099 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 There was another thread that I learn the VTX port on this FC only output 5V for the VTX, but the VTX is rated at 7-24V. Take Maiden suggestion and wire the power for VTX to Vbat. • Posts: 16 Threads: 4 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 6 Joined: Apr 2020 Reputation: 0 This makes a lot of sense! Now I'm new to this so before I do any modification, I'll confirm with you if this is right. https://ibb.co/album/jz0kOv Here I pointed a the new connection with blue circles, this is where a new cable will be soldered. The yellow circle is the cable that will be removed. So this way I have swapped the positive connection. Can the black / white cable stay where it is? The black wire is GND and goes to the FC, same for the white cable which is probably the OSD? Thanks a lot for your help @Maiden Flight and @voodoo614! • Posts: 21,298 Threads: 589 Likes Received: 8,983 in 6,648 posts Likes Given: 1,426 Joined: Jun 2018 Reputation: 789 Yes, you can remove red wire from the last pin in the plug circled yellow (I guess the other end goes to a 5V supply), and instead solder a new wire to that 7-25V pad circled blue and connect the other end to a LiPo voltage source.
Alternatively, just leave that red wire in the plug and connect the other end of it to a LiPo voltage source instead of a 5V source. Posts: 12,099 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 I would leave the red wire at in the plug. And only move the end connected to the FC from the 5V to Vbat. Posts: 16 Threads: 4 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 6 Joined: Apr 2020 Reputation: 0 I took all of you guys advice and soldered the wire directly.
The noise is a lot less than on the video, but not completly gone.
Next of will be increase the get_power in BF and increasing mW of the VTX.
Hope this gets it noise free.
Thanks for all the help, I flew my first pack today! • Posts: 16 Threads: 4 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 6 Joined: Apr 2020 Reputation: 0 (12-Apr-2020, 01:59 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Yes, you can remove red wire from the last pin in the plug circled yellow (I guess the other end goes to a 5V supply), and instead solder a new wire to that 7-25V pad circled blue and connect the other end to a LiPo voltage source.
Alternatively, just leave that red wire in the plug and connect the other end of it to a LiPo voltage source instead of a 5V source. Sadly enough I have to revive the thread, the one pack seems to be a lucky shot. Today I was hyped up and wanted to fly a second pack and guess what, the problem is back to the very same extend. What have I tried so far; - Switched the red wire to vbat - Put on new props, again - Increased get_power in BF from 1 to 2 - Increased VTX power output directly from 25 mW to 100 Mw - Seperated red from all other wires - Remove the radio TX from on top of the VTX to on top of the drone itself so nothing touches the VTX Nothing seems to help and the drone remains unflyable due to the noise as seen in the video at the first post. Anyone ideas? • Posts: 12,099 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 Time for a new VTX. Maybe the VTX is of poor quality. • Posts: 16 Threads: 4 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 6 Joined: Apr 2020 Reputation: 0 It's a brand new VTX.. even the upgraded model • Posts: 21,298 Threads: 589 Likes Received: 8,983 in 6,648 posts Likes Given: 1,426 Joined: Jun 2018 Reputation: 789 (16-Apr-2020, 11:27 PM)Emper Wrote: It's a brand new VTX.. even the upgraded model Unfortunately you don't get particularly good quality electronics for $79. As the saying goes, you generally get what you pay for, and some of the cheaper Eachine gear isn't known to be that great anyway. It's also possible you ended up with a lemon that wasn't properly QC checked at the factory. It happens sometimes unfortunately. You could try and get Banggood to send you a replacement under warranty, but that may end up being more hassle than it's worth. If you decide to buy another VTX, get something completely different and not another one of the same. • Posts: 16 Threads: 4 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 6 Joined: Apr 2020 Reputation: 0 (16-Apr-2020, 11:38 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Unfortunately you don't get particularly good quality electronics for $79. As the saying goes, you generally get what you pay for, and some of the cheaper Eachine gear isn't known to be that great anyway. It's also possible you ended up with a lemon that wasn't properly QC checked at the factory. It happens sometimes unfortunately.
You could try and get Banggood to send you a replacement under warranty, but that may end up being more hassle than it's worth. If you decide to buy another VTX, get something completely different and not another one of the same. Alright then I will give up on the little Tyro! Maybe use it to practice LOS. It was my quad to get into fpv and see if I enjoy it.. You know something that I can buy for not too much money which uses 4s 850 mah batteries? I am from Europe. • Posts: 16 Threads: 4 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 6 Joined: Apr 2020 Reputation: 0 (16-Apr-2020, 11:38 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Unfortunately you don't get particularly good quality electronics for $79. As the saying goes, you generally get what you pay for, and some of the cheaper Eachine gear isn't known to be that great anyway. It's also possible you ended up with a lemon that wasn't properly QC checked at the factory. It happens sometimes unfortunately.
You could try and get Banggood to send you a replacement under warranty, but that may end up being more hassle than it's worth. If you decide to buy another VTX, get something completely different and not another one of the same. A reddit user name Veryoldcheddar also replied to my post on the Multicopter reddit. He told me to check the band on my goggles, because auto scan sometimes gets the wrong channel. Guess what? The goggles tuned into 8.260 while they needed to be on 8.265! Problem SOLVED! I can finally fly my little Tyro! • |
