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Suggestions for 3D Printer
#16
(21-Jan-2016, 10:55 AM)Kamil Domińczyk Wrote: The vulcanus printer is really good. Im glad that You decided to build printer by Yourself, it's really good decision.
If You live in Germany, then You can buy good parts as You said, so dont waste time and money on aliexpress then. 

Are you suggesting that I should try to buy everything from Germany(even the electronics and the stuff that is linked to aliexpress in the tutorial) , or just the hardware for the structure??

Quote:The design is good, rock solid Corexy printer. Everything is really well writed up how to build this printer. The only thing You can do is to add removable side panels. It will help while printing with ABS. Oh, and don't play with self mods to electronics, like in the vulcanus v1. Just use good old ramps 1.4 with lcd and dvr8825 stepsticks and some led power supply. Remember to add fan if You are going to mount it inside the base of the printer Smile

So I should not mod an ATX Power Supply? Just use some LED Power Supply that you can buy almost everywhere?? (I already know those from previous LED Projects)
OK,  I will search for Ramps 1.4.

Quote:The software is easy, always someone, or me can help You. Marlin is software uploaded to motherboard, repetier host is just a firmware allowing You to controll the printer via PC and slice 3d files. You can change it for Cura at the start, it's easier to use. After some time go back to repetier where You have more options and diffrent slicer engine (of course You can use in repetier slicer engine from cura if You wantSmile)

I will try to get the different software up and running. I hope I will get it working.

Quote:Edit.
Remember to be carefull while working with solid state relay powering the bed. 
In free time You can watch some videos ot Thomas. I recommend his channel and the informations he's presenting 
Thomas Sanladerer channel

Thanks for the youtube channel!! Great stuff

As before thanks for your great feedback. I hope I can get started buying and building soon.
Like I said before I will start a new thread once I get the build going.
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#17
Quote:Are you suggesting that I should try to buy everything from Germany(even the electronics and the stuff that is linked to aliexpress in the tutorial) , or just the hardware for the structure??


Sorry, what I suggest is to buy the hardware in Germany(extrusions, screws, bearings, rods, motors ect), and the electronics on Aliexpress. Almost every electronic you can get in RepRap shops is from china, so there is no point of paying more for the same quality.

Quote:So I should not mod an ATX Power Supply? Just use some LED Power Supply that you can buy almost everywhere?? (I already know those from previous LED Projects)
OK,  I will search for Ramps 1.4.

After getting familiar with ramps 1.4 You can skipp to some better electronics, also some informations You can find on Thomas channel.

You only mod Your power supply when using ATX. It has a protection that will not turn it on  while not plugged into PC motherboard. So You only need to connect two wires. Easy to find in google.  

Well, there is no really big difference between ATX or led power supply. Only price, dimensions and current. You should buy what will be in good price range and easy to get for You.  What You need is 12v and something around 18A (6A for motors and hotend, 12A for bed)
But if You are going to use silicone heater like in Vulcanus 30x30, You need to use SSR, or You will blow up Mosfets on ramps, or whole board. 

Stick with the Vulcanus 30x30 build and instructions for power and bed and heater Smile

Quote:Thanks for the youtube channel!! Great stuff

As before thanks for your great feedback. I hope I can get started buying and building soon.
Like I said before I will start a new thread once I get the build going.

No problem, I hope that You will build it soon Smile


_______________________________________________________________________________________________________
P.S
Think about the bearings that You are going to use. Every cheap ones are from china, so You can buy then on Aliexpress. If You want good quality, think about purcharing some real ones (more expensive) or Igus Dyrlin bearings  
 
Oh, and if You want some good motors with shipping from Europe, I can suggest ones from here motors 
I have got them sent to me from Germany, and they are greate, also with good price.
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#18
Thanks for your last reply, it was very helpful as always.

I decided to stick with this thread until my shopping list is complete and then start a new one for the build log.
So here it is (at least as far as I already searched around)

My Shopping list with possible questions:

1. Mechanics:
I did go for german shops for the hardware of the printer, like suggested...

Aluminum Extrusions
  • 16x 490mm (for the sides of the stages)
  • 4x 600mm (for the 4 corners)
  • 2x 360mm (for the PrintBed)
  • 2x 405mm (for the PrintBed)


a lot of Bolts and Nuts from the same shop. I will not list them all here, because I think they are not the point of question. A detailed list will follow in the build log.
For the Bearings, I want to get 8x 10mm (for X and Y Axis) and 8x 12mm (for Z Axis).
I am thinking about getting just the normal LM*UU Bearings, but I also had a look at the upgraded plastic bearings that you told me about. But so far I only found the website from the guys that make them and I dont know which one I would need: 
http://www.igus.com/wpck/3542/DryLin_R_Lineargleitlager
http://www.igus.com/wpck/3544/DryLin_R_Flanschgehaeuse

10-20x 624 RS Bearings


Now for the motors:
I looked at the site you linked me and found 3 different sets that I am not sure about if the differences actually matter... They got different A(mp) rating and also different Holding Torque... how does that affect me??

Then I found another set on ebay which is cheaper but according to stats it has roughly equal A rating and torque, but with 0.9 degree step angle, it has twice the resolution over the one above: (the ones above having 1.8 degree, therefore 200 steps per revolution, and the ones from ebay having 400 steps per revolution thanks to 0.9 degree step angle)
http://www.ebay.de/itm/5-PCS-CNC-Nema17-...1274793813
Would I benefit from the smaller step angles?? I does make sense to me that smaller steps (higher resolution per revolution) is better....


2. Electronics:


RAMPS 1.4 with Mega 2560 R3 and Stepper Drivers
LCD display
MK8 Direct Drive (as suggested by the MAX turorial)

For the heated Bed:
Version 1 (220V 600W, 300x300mm)

Version 2 (220V 350W, 300x300mm)
I think 300x300mm will be enough although my print area will be 320x320mm, but I guess the aluminum above the heated Bed will transfer the heat to the edges anyways

4x mechanical Endstops
Inductive Proximity Sensor

E3D V6 Hotend (normal version + Volcano kit)
with the hotend I also can choose 4 additional nozzels... (1.75mm/3mm) 0.4mm, 0.6mm, 0.8mm, 1mm and 1.2mm. Which ones should I go for (all beeing 1.75mm for the filament size)??



So far this is my not yet finished shopping list, I know I am still missing parts, I hope I can update the full list tomorrow.
Things I know that are missing: 
- 2x GT2 Pulley + 2m GT2 Belt
- 2x Axis coupler 5mm to 8mm
- 40mm Fans
- 80mm Fans
- Power Supply ( I will probably start with a hacked ATX since I still have 2 around that are not in use.)

Now here are my other questions that I found while searching for parts:
Will I need other motor drivers as the one that are shipped with the RAMPS package? which ones are good? (The only ones I ever saw where pololu).
Maybe these are also good?? (Just 2 I found on Aliexpress)
DRV 8825
A4988 (I think these are the same as with my RAMPS package)

Some other Boards I found on Banggood while searching for the RAMPS 1.4... are they any good, what are the benefits of using them?? 
Ramps-FD
Ultimaker PCB Control Board


I think this is it from me for today.
Would be a blessing to get some comments about the parts I choose, what is good, what could be changed for something better.
As always, I love feedback and I still have a lot to learn.
Thanks
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#19
I highly recommend the Wanhao Duplicator i3, ready to use and have great support. Most important the price is very good for a printer that is ready build in steel frame and print as well as those more expensive printers.

In USA, you can get from here: http://ultimate3dprintingstore.com/colle...2872958980

In Europe, here: http://www.3dprima.com/en/3d-printer/3d-...inter.html
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#20
(17-Jan-2016, 12:22 PM)Andrey Mironov Wrote: Building an i3 myself seems impossible, I don't know where I can get the frame. Don't have any friends with CNC or working on a factory who can lend me a hand :-(

Building a 3d printer is easier than building a quad!  I have designed and built several delta style printers. All with the help and guidance of people on reprap.org  They should be your first choice for info! On my deltas I switched from printed parts to those milled out of aluminum. Robotdigg.com has been a good source of parts.  please send me a pm if you have any questions.

(30-Jan-2016, 05:28 PM)Eddie Chong Wrote: I highly recommend the Wanhao Duplicator i3, ready to use and have great support. Most important the price is very good for a printer that is ready build in steel frame and print as well as those more expensive printers.

In USA, you can get from here: http://ultimate3dprintingstore.com/colle...2872958980

In Europe, here: http://www.3dprima.com/en/3d-printer/3d-...inter.html

their printers are based on the pursa I3, I do look at their specs and it is a good value for the money. I do know people who paid twice that for kits and got plastic parts. Like Eddie said you want a metal frame!
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#21
I built a Prusa i3 last year. I got the frame, printed parts and most of the electronics from eBay. The hardware I got from a local DIY shop and I decided to go with a higher quality hot end. Overall the printer cost me around $250.
Current quad: ZMR 250 / DYS SE2205 / Littlebee 20A ESCs / Drone Lab 1500 4S / Naze32 Rev5 / BF 2.7.1
FPV: Runcam Skyplus / Aomway 200mw VTX / Fatshark DomV1
>>>>>>>>>>Check Out My Build<<<<<<<<<<
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#22
I love building stuff, but sometimes do not have the time to invest, so I took the lazy way out and just parted with cash and bought a ready to print 3D printer (well 2 actually, as it was a buy 1 get one free deal..lol)

These printers serves my needs perfectly..which is just to make 3D parts for my quads.  These are home/hobbyist printers

The Up Plus 2 and the Up Mini





[Image: cnc_UP23_D.jpg]  The UP Plus 2

[Image: cnc_UPMini.jpg] The UP Mini


I knew nothing about 3D printers at the time but I am very happy with the results these printers produce.

I did buy a new version of Heating bed for the Mini and works great.
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#23
Can anyone that has good knowledge with Prusa i3 printer, Core XY, or even better Vulcano itself have a look at my list I posted on the second page??

Thanks!
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#24
Any thoughts on this one?


http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-Newe...d6a08463f7
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#25
(16-Feb-2016, 01:23 AM)Scott Meese Wrote: Any thoughts on this one?


http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-Newe...d6a08463f7

Looks like a modified Prusa i3 which is what I built. The frame looks solid enough.

The printer uses a bowden extruder which means the motor is not directly attached to the hotend but instead is mounted on the frame and the filament is passed down a tube. I don't have any experience with this type of extruder so I can't comment.

The hotend itself is an E3D which may be genuine or a clone, the E3D is a good hotend however some of the clones clog really easily. As with all printers proper configuration can make a big difference to the quality of your prints.
Current quad: ZMR 250 / DYS SE2205 / Littlebee 20A ESCs / Drone Lab 1500 4S / Naze32 Rev5 / BF 2.7.1
FPV: Runcam Skyplus / Aomway 200mw VTX / Fatshark DomV1
>>>>>>>>>>Check Out My Build<<<<<<<<<<
Reply
#26
Hi, sorry for the silence..

Your shopping list is correct Smile You will be fine  with classic LM bearings, so don't bother with IGUS, You can always update it later. 

For the motors, all of them are good. They have nice torqe, but be carefull with chinese one, they tend to be lowet quality :/  

As for the 1.8 vs 0.9 degree, You are correct. With 0.9 motor You will get more resolution, but in classic FDM printer You will not notice big diffrence. It will for sure change the sound, heat, steps and overaal feeling of printer, but in my opinion it's  place for some tests on Your own hand. Im happy with 1.8 degree motorSmile

Stepstick's, You can use the one shipped with Ramps. Most of  You can get are chinese clones of the original A4988, but they work ok, and they are cheap. You can consider more expensive TMC2100, wich are super silent, but they have tendency to heat the motors, alot.

The other boards You found are just classic Ramps fused with arduino mega2580 into one single PCB. Maybe the quality is a bit diffrent, but it's not worth of paying more, only the Ramps FD is diffrent. It use arduino DUE, stronger than Mega, but again. There will be no diffrence in print quality. Whats benefit of using such board is possibility of adding touch lcd, lights, wifi ect.
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