Posts: 19 Threads: 3 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 0 Hello everyone, I was thinking about buying a 3D printer during the last weeks, but I am not sure which one... Google helped me find some models, but most of them are a little bit too expensive for me. Then I found this one: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Full-...04108.html Anyone has any experience with this printer?? (Good or Bad) What other options did you consider? What would you suggest someone who wants to buy a printer?? Thanks for any help ![[-]](https://intofpv.com/images/collapse.png) • Posts: 10 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 3 Hello there  I saw this printer once and what can I tell about it. Its just a regular prusa i3 which can be build for around 75$ cheaper, but has some nice mods. I think its a pretty nice option for starting with 3d printers if You don't want to build one. What's good about it: -belt tensioners -based on open source design -pretty easy to assemble -has aluminium heated bed- You will be able to use auto bed leveling feature by adding inductive probe What's not so good: -the frame is acrylic- wood has some flexibility, this material not so much. -power supply can be weak and break after some time -quality of some parts is poor. The worst one are bearings, they will be loud as hell  -hot end is crappy clone of e3d. You have 50% chances to get a working one. The quality of components is a mystery. It will be clogging, not holding the temperature nice, leaking, oozing, hard to extrude filament. Or You will be a lucky guy and receive pretty decent one. -X carriage is bad, it's wobbling too much. Better to print a good one, it will save you a lot of issues, and improve print quality. -it's good to change hotend nozzle. It won't be clogging so much (diffrent design) -motors are weak and really chinese -the last thing is the motherboard. It's not so opensource thing as they say.. so if annything will blow, or breake, you are addicted to them. The board is based on regular ramps 1.4 with arduino mega, so nothing special. If you want to start, Prusa i3 and all similar constructions are good. Of course it won't be plug and play, but it's not hard to learn most things about printing on such type of printer. It's just a RepRap  Other possibility is to build Your own printer, and it's not hard. I strongly recommend all the CoreXY constructions, or printers with Ultimaker mechanics. Once You try one of them, You will really love them, and it can be build with similar costs. I hope I helped a little Cheers! • Posts: 19 Threads: 3 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 0 Thank you for your great help and pointing me in the right direction!!! I did read a lot on the site of RepRap as well as CoreXY. For me CoreXY sounds like a good platform for a solid printer. (14-Jan-2016, 11:35 PM)Kamil Domińczyk Wrote: Hello there
I saw this printer once and what can I tell about it. Its just a regular prusa i3 which can be build for around 75$ cheaper, but has some nice mods. I think its a pretty nice option for starting with 3d printers if You don't want to build one.
What's good about it:
-belt tensioners
-based on open source design
-pretty easy to assemble
-has aluminium heated bed- You will be able to use auto bed leveling feature by adding inductive probe
What's not so good:
-the frame is acrylic- wood has some flexibility, this material not so much.
-power supply can be weak and break after some time I think this is not a big deal, you can always replace it, simple Power Supply as far as I saw from the pictures... Quote:-quality of some parts is poor. The worst one are bearings, they will be loud as hell I think noise won't be a big issue for me, since I will have it in my separate workbench area. Quote:-hot end is crappy clone of e3d. You have 50% chances to get a working one. The quality of components is a mystery. It will be clogging, not holding the temperature nice, leaking, oozing, hard to extrude filament. Or You will be a lucky guy and receive pretty decent one.
-X carriage is bad, it's wobbling too much. Better to print a good one, it will save you a lot of issues, and improve print quality.
-it's good to change hotend nozzle. It won't be clogging so much (diffrent design) Can you guide me towards the correct replacement parts that I would be able to purchase (hotend) or print myself? Quote:-motors are weak and really chinese
-the last thing is the motherboard. It's not so opensource thing as they say.. so if annything will blow, or breake, you are addicted to them. The board is based on regular ramps 1.4 with arduino mega, so nothing special.
If you want to start, Prusa i3 and all similar constructions are good. Of course it won't be plug and play, but it's not hard to learn most things about printing on such type of printer. It's just a RepRap I am not really looking for plug and play, there is no fun without building it... Quote:Other possibility is to build Your own printer, and it's not hard. I strongly recommend all the CoreXY constructions, or printers with Ultimaker mechanics. Once You try one of them, You will really love them, and it can be build with similar costs. I think I would love to build a printer myself. Would you advise starting with a Prusa i3 and then maybe build a bigger one using CoreXY? Are there any kits (like the Prusa i3 I found) that I could buy and build that use CoreXY and are similar in working (Printing) area and price compared to the Prusa i3?? Quote:I hope I helped a little
Cheers! You helped a lot! Thank you again • Posts: 10 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 3 Quote:Thank you for your great help and pointing me in the right direction!!!
I did read a lot on the site of RepRap as well as CoreXY. For me CoreXY sounds like a good platform for a solid printer. No problem The corexy is a really nice design. You will have less problem with it than with prusa i3. And it's a nice looking box on desk. Quote:I think this is not a big deal, you can always replace it, simple Power Supply as far as I saw from the pictures... You can even use ATX from old PC. You need 12V with one 6A line for power electronics with hotend, and second 12v line with something aorund 12V 12A for heated bed. Connecting is really simple, only 4 leads to motherboard (in ramps) Quote:I think noise won't be a big issue for me, since I will have it in my separate workbench area. It wasn't also a big issue for me, but my family can say something diffrent You can use some polymer linear bearings. Lulzbot use them in printers, they are 100% silent. Or try to print your own from Iglidur filament, or PLA. Quote:Can you guide me towards the correct replacement parts that I would be able to purchase (hotend) or print myself? Yes, that's no problem for me. But first, give a try to the chinese one. Who know, maybe You will be lucky. I will only tell you what X carriage you should print, also You can search for it on Thingiverse. Quote:I am not really looking for plug and play, there is no fun without building it... I know, but what I wanted to say is that it's better to just run the print, and have anny evven bad results, than some one big blob of plastic. It's really frustrating when something that cost You 250$ is only a big paper clip. But when You will give a bit of love to Your printer, it should print good. Quote:I think I would love to build a printer myself.
Would you advise starting with a Prusa i3 and then maybe build a bigger one using CoreXY? Yes, Prusa i3 is really good for the start, many people stay with this construction. If You know that You are able to build printer by Yourself, consider leaving the chinese prusa alone and building Corexy as first printer. It will save You time, money, and its a simple to build. Also, there is no need to build printer with bigger print volume than 30x30cm. You won't be printing soo big parts. Also it will take ages to finish some big prints, and the mechanics can wobble. Just stay under 30x30cm, maybe 40x40cm with corexy Quote:Are there any kits (like the Prusa i3 I found) that I could buy and build that use CoreXY and are similar in working (Printing) area and price compared to the Prusa i3?? Well, from what I have seen on Aliexpress or ebay, not really. Of course that some companies that sell DIY kits of other designs, but You can build it cheaper. Most of the parts buy on Aliexpress, the frame can be build by Yourself, or manufactured locally. Also the printed parts, somone will just print them for You, even I can if You want, but look first in Your area. It will be cheaper due to handling charges. Look for some printers here CoreXY Quote:You helped a lot!
Thank you again Then Im glad • Posts: 19 Threads: 3 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 0 (15-Jan-2016, 08:39 PM)Kamil Domińczyk Wrote: Quote:Thank you for your great help and pointing me in the right direction!!!
I did read a lot on the site of RepRap as well as CoreXY. For me CoreXY sounds like a good platform for a solid printer. No problem
The corexy is a really nice design. You will have less problem with it than with prusa i3. And it's a nice looking box on desk.
Quote:I think this is not a big deal, you can always replace it, simple Power Supply as far as I saw from the pictures...
You can even use ATX from old PC. You need 12V with one 6A line for power electronics with hotend, and second 12v line with something aorund 12V 12A for heated bed. Connecting is really simple, only 4 leads to motherboard (in ramps)
Quote:I think noise won't be a big issue for me, since I will have it in my separate workbench area.
It wasn't also a big issue for me, but my family can say something diffrent
You can use some polymer linear bearings. Lulzbot use them in printers, they are 100% silent. Or try to print your own from Iglidur filament, or PLA.
Quote:Can you guide me towards the correct replacement parts that I would be able to purchase (hotend) or print myself?
Yes, that's no problem for me. But first, give a try to the chinese one. Who know, maybe You will be lucky. I will only tell you what X carriage you should print, also You can search for it on Thingiverse.
Quote:I am not really looking for plug and play, there is no fun without building it...
I know, but what I wanted to say is that it's better to just run the print, and have anny evven bad results, than some one big blob of plastic. It's really frustrating when something that cost You 250$ is only a big paper clip.
But when You will give a bit of love to Your printer, it should print good.
Quote:I think I would love to build a printer myself.
Would you advise starting with a Prusa i3 and then maybe build a bigger one using CoreXY?
Yes, Prusa i3 is really good for the start, many people stay with this construction. If You know that You are able to build printer by Yourself, consider leaving the chinese prusa alone and building Corexy as first printer. It will save You time, money, and its a simple to build.
Also, there is no need to build printer with bigger print volume than 30x30cm. You won't be printing soo big parts. Also it will take ages to finish some big prints, and the mechanics can wobble. Just stay under 30x30cm, maybe 40x40cm with corexy
Quote:Are there any kits (like the Prusa i3 I found) that I could buy and build that use CoreXY and are similar in working (Printing) area and price compared to the Prusa i3??
Well, from what I have seen on Aliexpress or ebay, not really. Of course that some companies that sell DIY kits of other designs, but You can build it cheaper. Most of the parts buy on Aliexpress, the frame can be build by Yourself, or manufactured locally. Also the printed parts, somone will just print them for You, even I can if You want, but look first in Your area. It will be cheaper due to handling charges.
Look for some printers here CoreXY
Quote:You helped a lot!
Thank you again
Then Im glad Great answer once again, thank you. I think I will give the chinese Prusa i3 a try and get this working first. After that I can always think about building a second (bigger) one using CoreXY if I want (need) to. I think it should be easier to build your own CoreXY while already having a printer to print stuff on. After looking again on Aliexpress I found those 2 printers that are almost identical: 1.) http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-Fac...18400_6150 2.) http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Full-...18400_6150 The first one has a slightly larger printing area (larger by 10mm), and is a little bit cheaper, but otherwise I think they are the same. Do you think it would matter which one to choose? Hoping to be part of the 3D printing people soon, thanks again for your help so far! • Posts: 10 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 3 15-Jan-2016, 11:24 PM (This post was last modified: 15-Jan-2016, 11:27 PM by Kamil Domińczyk.) Quote:Great answer once again, thank you.
I think I will give the chinese Prusa i3 a try and get this working first.
After that I can always think about building a second (bigger) one using CoreXY if I want (need) to.
I think it should be easier to build your own CoreXY while already having a printer to print stuff on.
After looking again on Aliexpress I found those 2 printers that are almost identical:
1.) http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-Fac...18400_6150
2.) http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Full-...18400_6150
The first one has a slightly larger printing area (larger by 10mm), and is a little bit cheaper, but otherwise I think they are the same.
Do you think it would matter which one to choose?
Hoping to be part of the 3D printing people soon, thanks again for your help so far! You can always use the parts from Prusa in CoreXY build The first one has direct drive extruder, which vs the bowden one from second link will result in heavier and slower max speed of print. More light print head=bigger speed+less wobble. But I don't say that direct ones are bad, I like them really. They allow to better control the material feeded to nozzle. Also You won't reach some amazing speeds on prusa, 50mm/s is good value generating nice quality of prints. It's worth noticing that the first printer is sold with good fan for cooling pla prints. Also two 3d printed parts from X axis don't have belt tension, so You will need to add it, or print new ones. And they can be thin and just snap, I would take the second one. And the last two things, the first printer has cutted off plates behind Z motors, from top to bottom. I don't know why, but it's just creating more stress on frame, can increase wobbling and can cause trouble. The last thing is motherboard. On the first printer its all in one piece. Also the stepper drivers for the motors. So if You blow up one of them, and it's really easy, then You need to solder them directly on board. The motherboard on second printer allows You to use external stepsticks, and You can change them to silent ones. Everything about the second printer is as I wrote in my first post. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The chose depends on You. If You plan to stay with this printer, take the second one. But if You planning to change it for corexy, both are good. It's all about how much You want to spend for the first machine, they are almost the same. It's not a big deal to print some upgrades for printer, or change extruder to difrent type. • Posts: 19 Threads: 3 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 0 (15-Jan-2016, 11:24 PM)Kamil Domińczyk Wrote: Quote:Great answer once again, thank you.
I think I will give the chinese Prusa i3 a try and get this working first.
After that I can always think about building a second (bigger) one using CoreXY if I want (need) to.
I think it should be easier to build your own CoreXY while already having a printer to print stuff on.
After looking again on Aliexpress I found those 2 printers that are almost identical:
1.) http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-Fac...18400_6150
2.) http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Full-...18400_6150
The first one has a slightly larger printing area (larger by 10mm), and is a little bit cheaper, but otherwise I think they are the same.
Do you think it would matter which one to choose?
Hoping to be part of the 3D printing people soon, thanks again for your help so far!
You can always use the parts from Prusa in CoreXY build
The first one has direct drive extruder, which vs the bowden one from second link will result in heavier and slower max speed of print. More light print head=bigger speed+less wobble. But I don't say that direct ones are bad, I like them really. They allow to better control the material feeded to nozzle. Also You won't reach some amazing speeds on prusa, 50mm/s is good value generating nice quality of prints.
It's worth noticing that the first printer is sold with good fan for cooling pla prints.
Also two 3d printed parts from X axis don't have belt tension, so You will need to add it, or print new ones. And they can be thin and just snap, I would take the second one.
And the last two things, the first printer has cutted off plates behind Z motors, from top to bottom. I don't know why, but it's just creating more stress on frame, can increase wobbling and can cause trouble.
The last thing is motherboard. On the first printer its all in one piece. Also the stepper drivers for the motors. So if You blow up one of them, and it's really easy, then You need to solder them directly on board. The motherboard on second printer allows You to use external stepsticks, and You can change them to silent ones.
Everything about the second printer is as I wrote in my first post.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The chose depends on You. If You plan to stay with this printer, take the second one. But if You planning to change it for corexy, both are good. It's all about how much You want to spend for the first machine, they are almost the same. It's not a big deal to print some upgrades for printer, or change extruder to difrent type. Ok, I think I will decide towards the second option then, the extra 30€ are not the big deal! I think I understand a lot more now, thanks you. You said something about that special cooling fan on the first printer, and I think I see on the pictures what you mean... can I not print PLA without it, or will I have to print PLA without the fan just slower, so it can cool down a bit better?? I guess I can always add that fan to the second printer?!? I will see when I get to order and build it. I guess I will make a seperate Thread about the build prozess (Maybe). Thanks again for all your info. • Posts: 236 Threads: 2 Likes Received: 66 in 45 posts Likes Given: 27 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 17 16-Jan-2016, 01:21 PM (This post was last modified: 16-Jan-2016, 01:25 PM by AndreyM.) So Ali is an appropriate source for buying a 3d printer from? • Posts: 10 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 3 16-Jan-2016, 10:43 PM (This post was last modified: 16-Jan-2016, 10:48 PM by Kamil Domińczyk.) Quote:Ok, I think I will decide towards the second option then, the extra 30€ are not the big deal!
I think I understand a lot more now, thanks you.
You said something about that special cooling fan on the first printer, and I think I see on the pictures what you mean... can I not print PLA without it, or will I have to print PLA without the fan just slower, so it can cool down a bit better?? I guess I can always add that fan to the second printer?!?
I will see when I get to order and build it. I guess I will make a seperate Thread about the build prozess (Maybe).
Thanks again for all your info. That's Your decision, both printers will print ok You can always change extruder, or print some parts, so the second printer looks like better option from my point. The cooling fan is only needed from time to time while printing PLA. It cools it when software need it, it helps in bridging and improve print quality. The pla has low temperature melting point, so fan allows to cool the layer faster and that alows to have better output and higer print speed. You can print in PLA without fan, even on cold bed (just glass with blue painting tape, or glue stick). Buy some cheap centrifugal fan for 3d printer on aliexpress, print some mount from thingiverse and hook up two wires to motherboard. Thats all, then You can play and see the difference. Separate thread is good option. You will upload Your progres there, and someone can always help You. The build itself is really easy, 2 or 3 hours. Callibration is a way more troubleshooting part
(16-Jan-2016, 01:21 PM)Andrey Mironov Wrote: So Ali is an appropriate source for buying a 3d printer from? For a first printer, not good, not bad, just is. Around 250$ for printer like the one sold on Aliexpress is resonable price, but annything higer in my opinion is not. You can build better printer Yourself, or pay similar price for used good printer, or even a new one. But if You are looking for first printer You can buy there. It will teach You the basic knowledge about 3d printing • Posts: 236 Threads: 2 Likes Received: 66 in 45 posts Likes Given: 27 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 17 Building an i3 myself seems impossible, I don't know where I can get the frame. Don't have any friends with CNC or working on a factory who can lend me a hand :-( • Posts: 10 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 3 (17-Jan-2016, 12:22 PM)Andrey Mironov Wrote: Building an i3 myself seems impossible, I don't know where I can get the frame. Don't have any friends with CNC or working on a factory who can lend me a hand :-( Well, You don't need to know them, the files are free to download. Every companny with co2 laser, or cnc mill can manufacture frame. You can always use openbuilds aluminium extrusions, or look for frame on ebay Ebay frames. Aliexpress also sell 3d printed parts, or get all the parts cutted. But if You don't feel good with self build, go and get the ready kit from aliexpress • Posts: 236 Threads: 2 Likes Received: 66 in 45 posts Likes Given: 27 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 17 17-Jan-2016, 10:00 PM (This post was last modified: 17-Jan-2016, 10:02 PM by AndreyM.) I want a steel frame from the start so I'm considering some Prusa i3 clone made in Russia (not too much confidence in their quality, though), the original Prusa i3 from prusa3d.com and Hephestos from bq.
I really don't feel that confident to build my first printer ever from scratch, I'd better leave that opportunity for modding it or creating subsequent printers. Maybe that's because I do not have any experience of creating such big machines. I do want to build a DIY CNC milling machine though for cutting G10, carbon and plywood. • Posts: 10 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 3 (17-Jan-2016, 10:00 PM)Andrey Mironov Wrote: I want a steel frame from the start so I'm considering some Prusa i3 clone made in Russia (not too much confidence in their quality, though), the original Prusa i3 from prusa3d.com and Hephestos from bq.
I really don't feel that confident to build my first printer ever from scratch, I'd better leave that opportunity for modding it or creating subsequent printers. Maybe that's because I do not have any experience of creating such big machines. I do want to build a DIY CNC milling machine though for cutting G10, carbon and plywood. If You want steel frame, check the Prusa i3 steel aka P3Steel or Prusa i3 Grabber. They are opensource, so the files are easy to find in google. Send these files to companny near You offering cnc milling, or plasma cutting. They should tell You the price for the frame, then start to think about other countries. P3Steel in my country (Poland) was cutted for around 38$ from good steel, once with painting in price) so the price near You shouldn't be really big. Don't be afraid, tt's just like puzzles. When You have all the components from BOM list, then You start the build with step by step instruction from web, really easy task. Well, original Prusa from Josef Prusa and the Hephestos from bq are almost the same thing. Nothing really much is changed, beside price, and some parts design. For me the price is a little too high. I would search around me for used printer like Ultimaker or Replicator 2 and all clones of them in similar price. But if You are ok with the price, take one of them, it really doesn't matter which one You will take ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, the cnc is a bit harder to build than simple prusa i3. • Posts: 19 Threads: 3 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 0 I am back again... Recently I found this one while still looking around for CoreXY Printers: Vulcanus MAX The original design is this one: Vulcanos V1 They look really good, and the best part is, the V1 has a very detailed list about all the material you need to build it, and also a good step by step instructions on the build prozess... The next good thing is, that the materials that are not from aliexpress are from a germany hardware supplier, which is perfect for me living in Germany. I am strongly considering building the Vulcanos MAX 30, once I figure out all the different hardware requirements compared to the V1. The needed 3D Parts I can probably get printed near me from someone with a printer. The prize will be roughly the same as buying the Prusa i3 kit from aliexpress (maybe a bit more), so I am ok with that. How would you rate the design and the electronics in use? Would you recommend changing anything? I hope I can manage the software part of it, since that is not so well documented on the tutorial. (and the original design uses marlin Firmware, while the MAX 30 tutorial uses repetier firmware) Any advice? • Posts: 10 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 3 21-Jan-2016, 10:55 AM (This post was last modified: 21-Jan-2016, 11:00 AM by Kamil Domińczyk.) (20-Jan-2016, 04:25 PM)Nightcat Wrote: I am back again...
Recently I found this one while still looking around for CoreXY Printers:
Vulcanus MAX
The original design is this one: Vulcanos V1
They look really good, and the best part is, the V1 has a very detailed list about all the material you need to build it, and also a good step by step instructions on the build prozess...
The next good thing is, that the materials that are not from aliexpress are from a germany hardware supplier, which is perfect for me living in Germany.
I am strongly considering building the Vulcanos MAX 30, once I figure out all the different hardware requirements compared to the V1.
The needed 3D Parts I can probably get printed near me from someone with a printer.
The prize will be roughly the same as buying the Prusa i3 kit from aliexpress (maybe a bit more), so I am ok with that.
How would you rate the design and the electronics in use? Would you recommend changing anything?
I hope I can manage the software part of it, since that is not so well documented on the tutorial. (and the original design uses marlin Firmware, while the MAX 30 tutorial uses repetier firmware)
Any advice? The vulcanus printer is really good. Im glad that You decided to build printer by Yourself, it's really good decision. If You live in Germany, then You can buy good parts as You said, so dont waste time and money on aliexpress then. The design is good, rock solid Corexy printer. Everything is really well writed up how to build this printer. The only thing You can do is to add removable side panels. It will help while printing with ABS. Oh, and don't play with self mods to electronics, like in the vulcanus v1. Just use good old ramps 1.4 with lcd and dvr8825 stepsticks and some led power supply. Remember to add fan if You are going to mount it inside the base of the printer The software is easy, always someone, or me can help You. Marlin is software uploaded to motherboard, repetier host is just a firmware allowing You to controll the printer via PC and slice 3d files. You can change it for Cura at the start, it's easier to use. After some time go back to repetier where You have more options and diffrent slicer engine (of course You can use in repetier slicer engine from cura if You want ) Edit. Remember to be carefull while working with solid state relay powering the bed. In free time You can watch some videos ot Thomas. I recommend his channel and the informations he's presenting Thomas Sanladerer channel • |
