I use Foxeer Micro Toothless 2 camera.
I flew with it several times, everything was OK.

One day suddenly I completely lost all visuals, only white screen and OSD. Shortly the video was restored and I continued my flight. As far as I remember (and I can see it on OSD)I made a punch with a throttle and lost the video.





I thought I was some electromagnetic fluke.



After that some flying w/o problems.

The next day (in the evening)  I got the same problem the second time. After throttle punch I immediately lost the video - a white screen and OSD. That time I was not so lucky. The video didn't restore, I tried to pull down the throttle to land, but I've crashed.


What's going on ?


P.S.
I know about "RunCam Eagle 2 White Screen Problem", but I think it is different problem.- no problem with exposure

How are you powering on the camera? Are you flying a high vtx power output? Appears to be a brownout. Probably the VREG is unable to deliver the required amps to power everything up.

(21-Nov-2022, 01:06 AM)kafie1980 Wrote: How are you powering on the camera? Are you flying a high vtx power output? Appears to be a brownout. Probably the VREG is unable to deliver the required amps to power everything up.

I do it according to this scheme     .
5v from a board to a camera.

Foxeer support told me: "Please measure the cam input voltage, in most cases, the issue is caused by the insufficient voltage".

I did -  4.96V when the drone is idle and disarmed.
According to spec. - Power Requirements: 4.6v - 20v.

I have 10v pad on the board, but it already connected to vtx. Is it possible to connect VTX and the camera to the same 10v pad ?     

unfortunately, idle voltage doesnt matter much, as the 5v regulator might drop down when voltage drops during flight, or noise may be causing issues, so idle doesn't do much except tell us it isnt totally broken.

You can wire multiple things to the same pad, you'll just want to make sure you aren't pulling too much power from that 10v pad now instead, but it should be fine as the camera pulls like .1amp. if you are running 4s, you can also wire it to vbat. but only if you are using 4s, 5 or 6s is too much voltage. On your FC, are there pads on the other side? im not sure of the model just from the photos, but there should be a pad somewhere to get access to other voltage sources. Depending on model, your vtx may also have its own camera power that you can solder to instead of the FC.

Many VTX take feed from battery
Many Camera have a dedicated feed from the VTX.

But you must not just assume! And no load voltages tell you nothing really when its happening under load.

Without detailed info of all components, not possible to advise.

Does seem most likely that the FC power lines cannot hold output voltage under load surge.

I normally power my VTX's from battery or a regulator if not capable of battery supply voltage.

1. vbat - possible, but it's too noisy. I can put LC filter or something like this. 
    But, wouldn't it be easier just to connect to 10v pad?
2. on the other side all plastic connectors duplicated as pads. There are plenty of 5v and only one 10v
3. vtx does have power output, but only 5v. Does it make any difference?

the vtx takes that 10v and filters it down to 5v, and its using its own 5v regulator, not the one on the flight controller. Id try the vtx 5v or the 10v on the flight controller, and go fly and see if the issue reappears.

an idea to help you save the quad if it does occur again is to have angle mode on a switch. this way the quad levels out and you can try to just hover/slowly descend while waiting to see if your feed reappears.

You can use the 10v vtx pads.
If your camera can handle 10v it won’t be a problem.
Cameras don’t pull much current.
Also powering camera and vtx from the same pads may help reduce noise in goggles.

FWIW my video was going out during full throttle punches,black screen, and the camera plug was lose or worn out.
I have had plug and play connection wires not fully seat in to the connections.
You might try checking the pinned connections.

Hi! This is my 1st post, but I have the same problem with the RunCam Eagle 2 after a crash.

Sometimes there is a white screen with OSD, sometimes black screen with OSD, sometimes even light violet screen with OSD, and sometimes the video is OK (all this without even powering the motor).

And I personally don't think it has anything to do with the voltage, as your video didn't come back after you lowered the throttle.

In my case touching/tinkering with the camera PCB itself seems to make the difference, so I assume it has something to do with the desoldered/loosened pins of the camera sensor.

When you push the throttle, the camera is subjected to some G force and a loose pin becomes open circuit.

I will try to look into and re-solder the sensor if I can.

(12-Jan-2023, 08:53 PM)Kresu Wrote: Hi! This is my 1st post, but I have the same problem with the RunCam Eagle 2 after a crash.

Sometimes there is a white screen with OSD, sometimes black screen with OSD, sometimes even light violet screen with OSD, and sometimes the video is OK (all this without even powering the motor).

And I personally don't think it has anything to do with the voltage, as your video didn't come back after you lowered the throttle.

In my case touching/tinkering with the camera PCB itself seems to make the difference, so I assume it has something to do with the desoldered/loosened pins of the camera sensor.

When you push the throttle, the camera is subjected to some G force and a loose pin becomes open circuit.

I will try to look into and re-solder the sensor if I can.

Welcome to intoFPV!

Yeah, if touching/moving the pcb fixes it, sounds like you’ve got a cracked/loose solder joint on something.

(12-Jan-2023, 09:37 PM)aLemonyleprosy Wrote: Welcome to intoFPV!

Yeah, if touching/moving the pcb fixes it, sounds like you’ve got a cracked/loose solder joint on something.

Hi Everyone!

I think I have fixed it!

Camera was working only intermittently and I could not trust it to fly my wing.
Next, I pinpointed the area of interest to the top left corner of the CMOS sensor.

When I powered the cam with this corner pressed down to the PCB, it worked. Any other corner did not work.
And if I released the pressure while the cam working, the video suddenly froze and/or turned into white or black screen.

Then, only by restarting the cam I was able to bring it back to life (conclusion: after it freezes or got white screen it rarely comes back by itself. Most often it needs turning the power off/on).

Then I used some flux and a hot air gun to reheat it to 300°C.
I did it 4 times (each time a little bit longer, 5, 6, 8, 10 seconds) while pressing the top-left sensor corner into the PCB with a wooden toothpick until everything cooled down.


After the 4th attempt now the RunCam Eagle 2 works perfectly!

Awesome! Good job and congratulations!