Currently working on my Eachine Falcon 180 and rebuilding it. I set it up with a D4R-II and now I wanna add telemetry to it. PPM is connected to IO_1 pin 1, 2 and 3. My Problem is, where do I connect the telemetry, and what wire do I use on the smartport on the D4R-II? I learned from a previous setup that I had to short RX and TX on IO_2 for telemetry to work using Softserial but how do I connect it when I'm using PPM? Any help is appreciated.

So far I tried connecting IO_1 5 and 6 to Rx on smartport. It seems I get readings for A1, A2 and RSSI but I have no idea what these means nor how to adjust and set them up. Is there a newbies guide for this?

Hello Sacro,

Did you have read this post from Oscar?
https://oscarliang.com/telemetry-frsky-taranis-d4r-ii/

(21-Sep-2016, 12:44 PM)Ikkuh Wrote: Hello Sacro,

Did you have read this post from Oscar?
https://oscarliang.com/telemetry-frsky-taranis-d4r-ii/

Hello.

I have not seen this post. However, I am using SP Racing F3 and with that I really have no idea what to connect where. Someone told me to short two wires and connect these alone to the smartport. It did give me some stuff on the telemetry screen but nothing like the naze32 guides that I find online.

What I need are some simple instructions for the F3 : Any ideas?

Sure we have some ideas for you, you can do it as followed:
Place a jumper on channel 3 and 4 on your D4R-II to activate CPPM mode on the receiver.
Also apply some power on the receiver, then you have on channel 1 the CPPM output, good for 8 channels and then you have on channel 2 a RSSI output.
You can connect channel 1 from the receiver to R2, connect RX from the smart port to T2, this is the right most pin on the smart port.
You have to set the flight controller as followed: 

You will need to invert the telemetry signal on the Flight controller.

Go to the CLI and type: 
And press save.
Enable telemetry in the configuration tab.
Then you have discover new sensors in your Taranis transmitter, keep in mind that the flight controller don't pass all the sensor through if it's disarmed, so you have to arm your flight controller first and then discover the new sensors.
If you are going to arm your flight controller remove your props first.
You only have to short two wires if you use soft serial, because you have a 3F flight controller you have 3 hardware uart connections, so you don't run so fast out of uart's

(24-Sep-2016, 09:28 PM)Ikkuh Wrote: Sure we have some ideas for you, you can do it as followed:
Place a jumper on channel 3 and 4 on your D4R-II to activate CPPM mode on the receiver.
Also apply some power on the receiver, then you have on channel 1 the CPPM output, good for 8 channels and then you have on channel 2 a RSSI output.
You can connect channel 1 from the receiver to R2, connect RX from the smart port to T2, this is the right most pin on the smart port.
You have to set the flight controller as followed: 

You will need to invert the telemetry signal on the Flight controller.

Go to the CLI and type: 

Code:

set telemetry_inversion = ON

And press save.
Enable telemetry in the configuration tab.
Then you have discover new sensors in your Taranis transmitter, keep in mind that the flight controller don't pass all the sensor through if it's disarmed, so you have to arm your flight controller first and then discover the new sensors.
If you are going to arm your flight controller remove your props first.
You only have to short two wires if you use soft serial, because you have a 3F flight controller you have 3 hardware uart connections, so you don't run so fast out of uart's

What exactly does R2 and T2 mean? I would guess UART2 Rx and Tx. Right now I have my channel 1 connected to the IO_1, pins 1, 2 and 3. Is this (3) UART2 Tx? And in that case are there also wires on this IO_1 for the Tx? Also what do I use the RSSI for (connect it somewhere?).

I assume I can also use UART1 and UART3 Tx for telemetry? Just solder on the smartportwire directly onto the F3 board? As long as I set a different UARTX to SmartPort? I am not suppose to bother with the option that says FRsky?

I prefer not using the wire short and softserial since I dont use any of the ports for added equipment like GPS and so on.

I don't know if you are using the SP racing 3 evo board or the full board, but if you are using the evo board you can watch this video, this will explain everything for you, if you have the full board i can help you to show you how to connect it.

(25-Sep-2016, 08:47 PM)Ikkuh Wrote: I don't know if you are using the SP racing 3 evo board or the full board, but if you are using the evo board you can watch this video, this will explain everything for you, if you have the full board i can help you to show you how to connect it.

Full Deluxe board here. Two different quads, one running D4 (PPM) and one running X4 (SBUS). I really have no idea how to connect wires, just what I got from tips all around. Problem is there are so many ways of doing this. Its just that nobody have pasted a "noobies guide" using SPrF3 Deluxe and FrSky/Taranis X9D setup from wiring to end.

If you got a solution for me, please fire away. I am actually thinking about making a "noobies guide" once I finally figure out all this.

As always, really appreciate all the help I'm getting

But for now you want the solution for SPrF3 deluxe and D4 PPM, if that's right I'm going make some schematics and basic settings for you.

(25-Sep-2016, 11:30 PM)Ikkuh Wrote: But for now you want the solution for SPrF3 deluxe and D4 PPM, if that's right I'm going make some schematics and basic settings for you.

This is how its connected now.
http://imgur.com/8AXFPKW

In Cleanflight (running 1.13) I set UART3 to Frsky telemetry and AUTO baudrate. After inverting telemetry in CLI this gives me 18 sensors. Before I added the FLVS-1 my A2 did not respond to much at all other than showing me a value of 7,4V and my VFAS had a value of 0 no matter what I do. After I added FLVS-1 and adjusted the Ratio for A2 it now gives me the correct voltage for my battery. VFAS, which is suppose to give me the battery value, shows 0. I guess this is cause my battery isnt connected to my FC directly anywhere.

What bothers me though is that even in CF configurator I get no battery voltage at all. I have connected other boards before and it has shown battery voltage in CF (At the very top, left icon shaped like a battery). I have disabled and enabled VBAT and Current meter in config. So far I do get telemetry for current but voltage on VFAS just shows 0. But like I said A2 works after adjusting the Ratio and seems to be giving me the correct values so I guess I can live with this.

Can I do anything to enable VFAS? Can I connect two wires from my battery (direct) to the VBAT headers on the FC? Will this enable me to get rid of this stupid voltage monitor I use for A2?

The main thing I need is battery voltage and signal strenght. Thats it.

Also I have two builds. This one running PPM, and another I plan on running Sbus on. Whats the simplest way of fetching telemetry when running Sbus?

Hello Sacro,

Do you use an ESC's with a BEC or do you have a separate BEC?
I don't think you can use FLVS-1 in combination with the telemetry from the flight controller, but you can get the total voltage from your flight controller.

(28-Sep-2016, 06:41 PM)Ikkuh Wrote: Hello Sacro,

Do you use an ESC's with a BEC or do you have a separate BEC?
I don't think you can use FLVS-1 in combination with the telemetry from the flight controller, but you can get the total voltage from your flight controller.

Hello.

I'm using the Eachine Falcon 180 PDB on this along with the SP Racing F3. FLVS-1 worked just fine as long as I connected one side directly to the battery. The A2 I had before disappeared and FLVS-1 gave me the new value that was correct when I tested. However since the FC already had a VBAT monitor port it was much simpler to just connect this to the battery connectors and get the VBAT value like it should. A2 from the FC changed back to the original A2 value after I removed the FLVS-1 again without any damage or anything. What A2 is though, I cant say  : know A1 is the 5V for the Rx unit.

Note that for VBAT to actually work I had to connect the VBAT port to my batteri directly. The FC itself has no 12V in without this.

---

Alright so a small update. I connected my battery (direct connection) to the VBAT port on the F3 and now VFAS works. With this I removed the FLVS-1 and updated my settings on my Taranis.

I have all functions I wanted now which is great. I will try to make a "newbies guide" to this once I finish my other 180 using X8R and Sbus.

(28-Sep-2016, 09:44 PM)Sacro Wrote: Hello.

I'm using the Eachine Falcon 180 PDB on this along with the SP Racing F3. FLVS-1 worked just fine as long as I connected one side directly to the battery. The A2 I had before disappeared and FLVS-1 gave me the new value that was correct when I tested. However since the FC already had a VBAT monitor port it was much simpler to just connect this to the battery connectors and get the VBAT value like it should. A2 from the FC changed back to the original A2 value after I removed the FLVS-1 again without any damage or anything. What A2 is though, I cant say  : know A1 is the 5V for the Rx unit.

Note that for VBAT to actually work I had to connect the VBAT port to my batteri directly. The FC itself has no 12V in without this.

---

Alright so a small update. I connected my battery (direct connection) to the VBAT port on the F3 and now VFAS works. With this I removed the FLVS-1 and updated my settings on my Taranis.

I have all functions I wanted now which is great. I will try to make a "newbies guide" to this once I finish my other 180 using X8R and Sbus.

So you fixed everything by yourself, that's great!

I don't have to make a schematic anymore for you?

The FLVS-1 is also a very old piece of hardware, you also need the current measuring device to get the data out of the system to the transmitter.

I'am using the FLVSS with smart port and that is easy daisy chain everything and you are done.

(28-Sep-2016, 10:11 PM)Ikkuh Wrote: So you fixed everything by yourself, that's great!

I don't have to make a schematic anymore for you?

The FLVS-1 is also a very old piece of hardware, you also need the current measuring device to get the data out of the system to the transmitter.

I'am using the FLVSS with smart port and that is easy daisy chain everything and you are done.

Yep I got it all to work after different advices from different forums. A little help here and there put together helped a lot even though nobody had ONE solution.

I do realize the FLVS-1 is old but since I had one here I just used it as a quickfix to the problem I had. However my current solution is of course much better and cleaner. Also the F3 already measures current for some reason and it seems to be accurate as well after testing with an amperemeter connected to the battery connector.

I am not familiar with the FLVSS but I dont really need to worry as far as I know. I will use the D4R and my X4R now since I have them and my next build will probably be built with a XSR

Hopefully I'll get my little guide out in a clean and easy to understand presentation after I finish this 2nd SPrF3 with X4R and telemetry. It's another racer so no GPS or stuff like that included.