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soldering iron temperature
#1
What temperature do you lot set your soldering iron too when soldering pdb fc and stuff
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#2
Depends on the solder - silver solder needs more heat than 60/40 lead - 320 to 370 is a good target.

For the small leads on the FC try to use 320~340. For the battery to PDB you probably need 360/370.
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#3
(05-Mar-2017, 09:01 PM)sushicanfly Wrote: Depends on the solder - silver solder needs more heat than 60/40 lead - 320 to 370 is a good target.

For the small leads on the FC try to use 320~340. For the battery to PDB you probably need 360/370.

Judging from the youtube videos I have watched, I assume you must be stating Celsius temps, yes?
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#4
Sure! Celsius temp.
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#5
I run my iron at 325C for small pads and wires and go up to around 350C for heavy stuff like battery wires and PDB pads.

As my main temperature controlled iron is normally fitted with a pencil tip for fine soldering, I've started using a second, super cheap iron with a larger flat tipped bit for the stuff that needs lots of heat and power. Although the cheapo iron pretends to be temperature controlled, it isn't really and I just run it 'hot' for heavy soldering jobs. The heavy jobs really benefit from using a tip with a wider end as it can transfer more heat to the joint in a given time than a smaller tip can.

I only use 60/40 lead based solder with a flux core. The lead free stuff is hopeless.
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#6
If you work with really heavy gauge wire a fair bit (like 12AWG battery cables) consider getting a bigger iron just for that purpose. Pencil tip stations are great for board level work with fine connectors, but a big chisel tipped iron at ~380-400 celsius will let you to heavy cable and connector joins much quicker which means a lot less heat transfer up the wire or into the board/connector. Basically you want to dump the heat into the join exactly where you need the solder, then add the solder and remove the heat. all in a couple of seconds. smaller irons/tips can't do that and lead to over heating boards, lifting tracks, burning flux while you wait for the joint to come up to temperature.

I do a fair bit of automotive work and used to use a (larger) pencil tip iron until one day I had to borrow this 6mm chisel tipped blunder-bus of a unit. Actually made doing heavy gauge wire joins and so much quicker with better solder flow and less temp spread away from the join.
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#7
I've watched a slew of youtube videos, and while I'm apprehensive, I think I could do this job right the first time. That said, I really, really want my 10 and 12 year old kids to share in the satisfaction of watching our first quad fly, so I suspect I'll end up needing another $40 KISS FC before we're airborne. Oh well.
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#8
(11-Mar-2017, 08:18 AM)Vespadaddy Wrote: I've watched a slew of youtube videos, and while I'm apprehensive, I think I could do this job right the first time.  That said, I really, really want my 10 and 12 year old kids to share in the satisfaction of watching our first quad fly, so I suspect I'll end up needing another $40 KISS FC before we're airborne. Oh well.

If you have never soldered before, it would really pay to get some "veroboard" that is used to build hobby electronics circuits, some surplus electronic components and some wire in various sizes and practice on the veroboard before you start soldering things of value.

All the watching in the world is no substitute for actually doing it yourself.
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#9
First, my soldering iron is set to 425C for 95% of my soldering. I always tin the tip of the iron; touch the iron with solder. When soldering, apply the heat to the material (not the solder), then touch the solder to the material. The material (wire, pad, etc.) needs to be hot enough to melt the solder. For example, when tinning a wire, touch the iron to the wire, then the solder to the other side of the wire. If the wire is hot enough, solder will flow over and around the wire. When tinning a pad, I touch the pad slightly off center with the iron and touch the solder to the center of the pad.  If you pre-tin the pad and the wire, things go together pretty smoothly and quickly. NOTE: When soldering a "hole", the hole does NOT need to be pre-tinned. I tin the wire, push it through the hole, touch the iron to the hole and to the wire, touch solder to the wire (it will flow down to the hole).
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