(20-Aug-2017, 03:11 PM)FPVdroneshotz Wrote: Did you ever get an answer back on this?  I'm having problems and trying to isolate the issue.

Just use an external 5v 2A/3A regulator for it. That's what I am running, it's been about 15 flights zero problem.

I was hoping that wasn't the answer, but it makes sense. The F3 FC has a 5v BEC rated to 3a. So, I should be able to power the Unify V2 and the Split with no problem. Just hate to add yet another connection - hence the F3 FC. Room is premium in this build.

Which regulator did you use?

(20-Aug-2017, 04:26 PM)FPVdroneshotz Wrote: Which regulator did you use?

This one:
https://oscarliang.com/3a-voltage-regula...-rc-model/

should be available on ebay or amazon

I just realized that you are the Oscar of the blogs I read all the time when I first started FPV a few months ago. Thanks for all your help getting started Oscar. Love your blogs!

O.k., So I purchased the regulator and now I just have a wiring question. How do I wire the VTX and Camera up?

Based on my limited knowledge - I think I can wire the IN+/- directly from the battery and then the OUT+/- to the camera and then use the adjustment screw to get to 5V. using a multimeter. I also have the camera video signal in the Vin next to the transmitter on the BFF3 FC. Is this right? Should I ground the Vtx with the camera ground? Any benefit? Did you put in a filter? I was curious as to the noise wiring it right from the battery. Or...... am I missing something here?

Any help appreciated.

Mark

Any help appreciated.

Mark

The regulator should remove any noise. Adjust it before connecting it to anything else!

The best way to connect everything would be to connect the regulator's 5V output to the RAM pin (leaving the RAM jumper unsoldered) and the ground to AGND. Then connect camera and VTX grounds to AGND, the camera and VTX power to RAM and video in/out to the VIN/VOUT pins.

The OSD chip can be quite fussy and if the grounds for the video signal are not connected to the same point, it tends to result in interference.

Although the BFF3's 5V regulator is rated at 3A (which is optimistic to put it politely), there's not a snowball's chance in hell that it can actually deliver that much current as there's a 1A diode in series with the regulator's output!

See: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost...count=4182

Using an external regulator is the only way to be sure that you won't break the real limits of the onboard regulator circuitry.

(25-Aug-2017, 10:21 AM)unseen Wrote: The regulator should remove any noise. Adjust it before connecting it to anything else!

The best way to connect everything would be to connect the regulator's 5V output to the RAM pin (leaving the RAM jumper unsoldered) and the ground to AGND. Then connect camera and VTX grounds to AGND, the camera and VTX power to RAM and video in/out to the VIN/VOUT pins.

The OSD chip can be quite fussy and if the grounds for the video signal are not connected to the same point, it tends to result in interference.

Although the BFF3's 5V regulator is rated at 3A (which is optimistic to put it politely), there's not a snowball's chance in hell that it can actually deliver that much current as there's a 1A diode in series with the regulator's output!

See: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost...count=4182

Using an external regulator is the only way to be sure that you won't break the real limits of the onboard regulator circuitry.

Thanks unseen!  BTW, I tried to plug in the Runcam Split Board to a USB on my laptop and all I get is a flashing red light on LED5.  Shouldn't I get a drive showing up when I plug it in?  I've tried Mac and Windows.  Nothing.

Do you have an SD card inserted?

(25-Aug-2017, 06:12 PM)RENOV8R Wrote: Do you have an SD card inserted?

Yup...  multiple ones tried.

(25-Aug-2017, 01:24 PM)FPVdroneshotz Wrote: Thanks unseen!  BTW, I tried to plug in the Runcam Split Board to a USB on my laptop and all I get is a flashing red light on LED5.  Shouldn't I get a drive showing up when I plug it in?  I've tried Mac and Windows.  Nothing.

Can you test the USB cable with another device like a smartphone? Some cables are 'charge only'.

I have had confirmation that my Runcam Split is now on its way to me, only 12 weeks to go..!!

@FPVdroneshotz - I don't know if it will make any difference, but if the camera wasn't connected to the board, the flashing LED may just be a standard error code? I hope it IS just as simple as a charge only cable or standard error...

According to the Split manual, #5 red LED is the power status. Blinking indicates normal operation

Anyone knows if the new firmware makes for less FPV image delay?

(24-Sep-2017, 12:52 PM)Fint Wrote: Anyone knows if the new firmware makes for less FPV image delay?

That's not something that the firmware release notes say it does, so I'd say that testing would be the only way to establish if there is any difference.

Just curious as someone mentioned they have seen an improvement.
Hoping Oscar will test in next badge.

I've still got a choppy image problem, seems that it might be a sdcard issue with the pins -> my pins did look fine, nothing like the runcam video.
https://support.runcam.com/hc/en-us/arti...he-buttons
Made the SDcard a bit thicker and added pressure on the top with some foam, still got to test if this actually helps.

Choppy video is probably down to the microSD card. My card is a Samsung 32GB Pro UHS-I Class 3 rated for 80MB/s write speed and I have perfectly smooth FPV and HD video with no dropped frames.

The HD video peaks at over 40Mb/s, so having a very fast, high quality card is essential.