(17-Jun-2017, 03:00 PM)JimmyLe813 Wrote: this is going to be perfect for submitting MultiGP UTT videos.

It'll definitely be good for that. Especially if you're just practicing and dont have a transponder to practice with it could be a good way to get an idea for your times. Maybe not precise enough to submit but at least precise enough to know where you stand during practice!

(18-Jun-2017, 12:19 PM)Carl.Vegas Wrote: It'll definitely be good for that. Especially if you're just practicing and dont have a transponder to practice with it could be a good way to get an idea for your times. Maybe not precise enough to submit but at least precise enough to know where you stand during practice!

it's a much better option than dvr from the goggles. especially since dvr footage is easier to tamper with, and also drops frames.

(18-Jun-2017, 11:42 PM)JimmyLe813 Wrote: it's a much better option than dvr from the goggles. especially since dvr footage is easier to tamper with, and also drops frames.

Well.... They do let you time with a stop watch if you don't have a transponder timing system and its got to be more accurate than that so maybe you have a good point there.

I just found this on Race Day Quads, I thought its height might go some way to getting the props out of the shot..? 30.5mm mounting holes fit the Split board too. It does look like you might still get the edges of the plate in view though. Also starting to look less like a tower and more like a skyscraper!


edit to add link - https://www.racedayquads.com/products/up...-top-plate

observation tower anyone? lol...

Interesting way to try to deal with it though at least... I think you're right about getting the plate in view... I'm not sure about that part...

I'll probably still get one someday when I build a 3rd or 4th quad after someone comes up with a frame with just a slightly raised camera mount... It's just not going on my July build... Alternatively I could get a frame with a longer body putting the camera further forward... but I've already picked out my frame for the next build so still have to wait.

hopefully there are frame designers out there going "wow these guys are ready to buy a frame based on just that one feature? I better build one!" lol... I can't be the only person who has a problem with things being in-shot on action cam. It'd be great if Pirat's 3rd frame had an option to mount the camera in a raised position (hint hint, in case Zerpo is watching lol... I'm still getting a sloop next anyway though.)

Trying a new lens on the Split...



The result is great! Because it's longer it won't see the frame nor the props... (well most of it)



The colour is actually better as well IMO...



I will upload some footage later today.

I'm confused about this camera. In the first post, it says:

"The Split features a replaceable, manual focus lens which provides 130 degree (4:3 aspect ratio) FOV for FPV live-streamed via PAL or NTSC and 165 degree ({widescreen}16:9 aspect ratio) FOV for the 1080p video captured on the DVR."

So, does this mean that the sensor is actually a 16:9 sensor and that the 4:3 FPV video is cropped from the 16:9 frame?

It certainly doesn't make sense the other way around as the field of view is determined by the lens and sensor - you can't make the field of view wider than what the sensor is actually capturing.

(19-Jun-2017, 03:41 PM)unseen Wrote: So, does this mean that the sensor is actually a 16:9 sensor and that the 4:3 FPV video is cropped from the 16:9 frame?

(Quote from Oscars blog)

(19-Jun-2017, 03:41 PM)Oscar Wrote: The FPV camera settings are shared with the HD camera, which means you can adjust them independently. So for example, if you want to your FPV feed brighter, you will need to increase exposure in your camera and it will affect your HD footage as well.

I guess, that's supposed to be "...can't adjust them independently" isn't it?

in FPV video, users can choose between 16:9 and 4:3.
The 4:3 video is cropped from 16:9 video. HD video is 16:9.

(19-Jun-2017, 03:41 PM)Oscar Wrote: Trying a new lens on the Split...

...

The result is great! Because it's longer it won't see the frame nor the props... (well most of it

The colour is actually better as well IMO...

....

I will upload some footage later today.

much better! I look forward to footage

Here is the test with GoPro lens

A little bit of props... but maybe I could tolerate a touch of prop... hmmmmm... interesting...

Hi Everyone....we need a bit of help

We have recently taken stock of our Runcam Splits and installed them into our quads.

We are encountering a subtle but annoying jello effect. it manifests on horizontal and vertical lines, wobble and line breaks. We have run a gopro and RC split together, the Gopro does not see the problem. But the split does.

We have scoured the web for suggestions of how to eliminate it. The flavour of the month is soft mountings...which we've tried. It has little effect.

Here is a list of what we have tried thus far.

Powered directly from MATEK PDB 5v 3a

hard mounting RC split camera
soft mounting RC split camera (foam mounted)
hard mounting Flight controller
soft mounting Flight controller
reset of all PIDs to default Betaflight 3.1.7
tuning of PIDs to try and remove wobbles
2 different flight controllers (SPRF3 and BFF3)
PT1 d_lowpass filter
Notch1 and Notch2 filters removed
Soft mounted motors
Brand new props
Different brand new props
different prop types, DAL T5045C T5050C
DSHOT600 and Oneshot125 protocol
different gyro and PID loop frequencies
Using: CHOAS 30A ESCs (DSHOT600) and EMAX 2205S 2300kv motors

We are somewhat stumped how to get non jello footage out of the split.

Any help is appreciated.

(21-Jul-2017, 11:29 AM)Redpilot Wrote: Hi Everyone....we need a bit of help

We have recently taken stock of our Runcam Splits and installed them into our quads.

We are encountering a subtle but annoying jello effect. it manifests on horizontal and vertical lines, wobble and line breaks. We have run a gopro and RC split together, the Gopro does not see the problem. But the split does.

We have scoured the web for suggestions of how to eliminate it. The flavour of the month is soft mountings...which we've tried. It has little effect.

Here is a list of what we have tried thus far.

Powered directly from MATEK PDB 5v 3a

hard mounting RC split camera
soft mounting RC split camera (foam mounted)
hard mounting Flight controller
soft mounting Flight controller
reset of all PIDs to default Betaflight 3.1.7
tuning of PIDs to try and remove wobbles
2 different flight controllers (SPRF3 and BFF3)
PT1 d_lowpass filter
Notch1 and Notch2 filters removed
Soft mounted motors
Brand new props
Different brand new props
different prop types, DAL T5045C T5050C
DSHOT600 and Oneshot125 protocol
different gyro and PID loop frequencies
Using: CHOAS 30A ESCs (DSHOT600) and EMAX 2205S 2300kv motors

We are somewhat stumped how to get non jello footage out of the split.

Any help is appreciated.

any footage showing the problem?
ideally if the quad if noisy/oscillating you want to turn on the filters not removing them
it would be nice if you could provide some blackbox log too that would help see where the problem is coming from.

(21-Jul-2017, 11:52 AM)Oscar Wrote: any footage showing the problem?
ideally if the quad if noisy/oscillating you want to turn on the filters not removing them
it would be nice if you could provide some blackbox log too that would help see where the problem is coming from.

Hi Oscar,

thanks for the reply, I will upload some example footage and try and find some black box to share too.

for removing the filters, it was just part of the elimination process. motors were not hot so I thought I would try it. (no change in HD footage apparent)
everything that was listed to be tried was also tried in the other manner too. (so a completely stock BF 3.1.7 installation was tried)

Its a rather frustrating problem, I see some people with perfect images from the RC Split.

I guess a simple question would be, using stock BF 3.1.7 PIDs, DSHOT600 protocol, EMAX RS2205s 2300KV motors on a typical 5 inch quad result in jello with a RC Split HD feed?
Or would I need to tune PIDs specifically to remove the HD feed jello

Thanks