I started with the top plate which would contain the cam/vTx, and the receiver. I designed a mount to hold the Boldclash camera and allow the angle to be adjusted. (There are proper holes for this in the side plates, but the included mount was for a different camera.)
The Boldclash will take max 5.5v, but the filtered Vid+ on the Piko is at VBat voltage (which was going to be at least 8.4) so I prepared a step down regulator to solder in the Vid+/Gnd with female plugs for the camera. I replaced the plug on the Boldclash to match the plugs on the regulator. (I also mounted the Rx below the camera plate at this time. You can see the antennas in the second photo - I later secured these to the side plates with dental floss.)
I tinned the ESC pads on the PDB portion of the Piko, and then soldered the step-down regulator, the buzzer, the main battery pigtail, and the Rx pigtail to the Piko. I mounted the assembly on the base plate with 4 anti-vibration mounts (from GetFPV).
I knew this would be very tight build, and I was trying to keep the stack as short as possible, so I opted to use individual ESCs instead of a 4-in-1. Now because of the short arms, I wasn't going to be able to mount the ESCs on top of the arms between the FC and the motor, so I decided to mount the ESCs underneath (wrapping the motor wires around the ends).
With the ESC wires crossing over under the frame, this meant the flight controller would need to be mounted 180 yaw degrees to have everything attach properly. After wrapping the ESCs around and underneath, I cut the ESC wires to length. I then remove everything and soldered ESCs to the FC/PDB.
After re-wrapping, and re-attaching the motors, I realized my original battery mount design, while covering the main wires, wouldn't provide any protection for the fragile motor wires. So I redesigned the battery mount cover to include protection for the wires all the way to the end of the arms. It added a couple of grams over the original design, but I think the overall protection is worth it.
Finally, mounting the camera plate after plugging in the receiver and Cam/vTx. (And temporarily leaving out the side standoff so I can access the USB port to configure the FC.)
All that was left was installing the standoff, securing the buzzer (taped around one arm), and mounting the props. The prop shaft is 1.5mm as is the hole in the prop. I used the technique of tying a strand of dental floss through the center hole and one of the side holes. Racerstar now makes the 1103 with T-prop mounting holes, but I already had these press-fit only style and the floss trick works well. (You should be able to see the floss in the photo below.)
The weather is pretty bad here today so the maiden was brief. Can't wait to get her out on a nicer day!