I'm using cleanflight to set it up and one of the rotors doesn't seem to spin correctly
Video:
Top left motor doesn't spin at all and bottom left kind of works.
It's a custom Naze32 but I'm not sure what version

Anyone know whats going on with it? Is it possible this is a ver6? People say the ver5 is better but never say why.

what were you doing in the video? motor tab? or did you arm it?
have you tried rate mode?

warning: avoid testing your quad with props on, especially USB cable is connected.

(20-Aug-2016, 12:26 PM)Oscar Wrote: what were you doing in the video? motor tab? or did you arm it?
have you tried rate mode?

warning: avoid testing your quad without props on, especially USB cable is connected.

uhh, I armed it with the flysky transmitter and moved the stick left right up down.
I should have recorded it with just the tabs / sliders. I disconnected the battery, moved the master slider all the way to the top, connected the battery, then moved the slider all the way down again.

I also don't know what is rate mode.

Yes it's dangerous with props on, so I wore some gloves temporarily. I only put it on because it's hard to see it rotating properly without anything on it. I'll probably tie down the quad onto wooden block when I get some time.

I hope you google what rate mode is?
https://oscarliang.com/rate-acro-horizon...ode-level/

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remove the props, and check if the motors spin up correctly with motor tab in Cleanflight?
could you also check your battery voltage for me?

looks like i was already using rate mode. Is rate mode the manual mode? No assistance from the flight controller?


Also i checked again without propellers and it still doesn't spin correctly. (motor 4)


If i slide motor 3 from 1000 to 1100, it will behave the same as motor 4, but if i slide it all the way to 1500 then back down to 1100, it will spin properly for a while.

My battery says 0V and I don't know why.


I measured it with a multimeter

I would check battery voltage first.....if you're battery voltage was low enough you might have been right at the threshold of getting the motors to spin and due to manufacturing differences along with other things, the threshold may very slightly on each motor.......

Edit:  Sorry, I didn't see your last post....wasent there while I was typing this one.  So much or what I know....

if it's not working in motor tab, then it's probably something wrong with the ESC's...
do you know what ESC they are? can you try calibrate them?

If its the standard eachine racer 250, then it it 12A simonk escs, which you will need to calibrate.

Here are some more useful info about the copter:
http://wikirotors.com/index.php?title=Ea...0#Features

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(20-Aug-2016, 02:15 PM)oyvinla Wrote: If its the standard eachine racer 250, then it it 12A simonk escs, which you will need to calibrate.

Here are some more useful info about the copter:
http://wikirotors.com/index.php?title=Ea...0#Features

I see that you have flashed it with cleanflight and then you would need a custom motor mix, since it normally comes with cc3d and open pilot. There is info about this in the wiki

Edit: I'm sorry, I missed the part where you mentioned that it is equipped with naze32. Then the motor numbers could be correct, but I would check it.

Quote: I disconnected the battery, moved the master slider all the way to the top, connected the battery, then moved the slider all the way down again.

is this not how you calibrate your ESC's?

Also, I triple checked the motor numbers, 1,2,3,4 and they're correct.
With number 3, I just found out if i leave it at 1100 for 10 seconds, it will start to spin normally. I dont have to bring it up to 1500,
Number 4 is still not working however.

Do PID numbers affect it?


Do I need to set it to angle mode?

I also double checked my soldering and they're quite rigid on the chassis and ESC output pins

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Here I have uploaded a full video of it happening.

can you "Reset PID controller"?
I looks like motor 4 or ESC 4 is faulty though from the above video..

I reset PID control values and it doesn't really make it work perfectly. I also unplugged it and tried controlling it from the transmitter and didn't make any difference.

Would it be the ESC and/or the motor? Because otherwise I need to go ask for replacement

is it posible/easy in your quad to swap signal cables ?
ie. you know esc + motor on line 2 are working ok,
disconnect esc 3 (signal), put in that place esc 2 signal, try to spin 3 (REMOVE PROPS) - this will narrow it down to either fc (if this doesnt work as well), or if it works correctly to esc/ motor pair.

next steps if it is esc + motor, desolder the motor - and solder the one from line 2, (so you still have old esc from 3 and motor from 2) - try to spinup... if everything works well you know this was the motor, if it still fails you know it is esc... (or esc and motor)

final step would be to have esc ie line 2 and old motor...

this way you will have all evidence... and you know what fails

On my first build, one of my motors behaved exactly like your #4.  After much hair-pulling, I tracked it down to a bad solder joint (motor to esc).  It may look OK and feel solid, but it might be a "cold joint".  Inspect it under a magnifying glass for bridges or "dull" coloration (tell-tale of cold joint) of one of the joints. Won't hurt to touch each joint with an iron to make sure it flowed well.

(21-Aug-2016, 08:35 AM)Grisha0 Wrote: is it posible/easy in your quad to swap signal cables ?
ie. you know esc + motor on line 2 are working ok,
disconnect esc 3 (signal), put in that place esc 2 signal, try to spin 3 (REMOVE PROPS) - this will narrow it down to either fc (if this doesnt work as well), or if it works correctly to esc/ motor pair.

next steps if it is esc + motor, desolder the motor - and solder the one from line 2, (so you still have old esc from 3 and motor from 2) - try to spinup... if everything works well you know this was the motor, if it still fails you know it is esc... (or esc and motor)

final step would be to have esc ie line 2 and old motor...

this way you will have all evidence... and you know what fails

I don't really follow you since 1,2 and 3 are working. 4 is the bad one.



Anyway i swapped front left motor and front right motor, and the original front left motor still works. I had the motor rotating the wrong way however. The original front right motor was sort of working.
So now i swapped the ESCs around, without desoldering the motors.
Now the motors are back where they started and the front left ESC and front right ESC are swapped.
The front right motor is spinning inconsistently now. Also the back left motor is getting worse (number 3)

I think the motors are fine. Is it the ESC or naze32? probably ESC?

Also, I'm confident my soldering is good this time as well since I've been doing rework on smallest 0603 surface mount resistors, BGA , QFN parts etc. for years now. I want to get a nice hakko one day.

This debugging has really wasted my weekend lol. Really glad you guys are so helpful

(21-Aug-2016, 03:25 PM)tecnix Wrote: I don't really follow you since 1,2 and 3 are working. 4 is the bad one.



Anyway i swapped front left motor and front right motor, and the original front left motor still works. I had the motor rotating the wrong way however. The original front right motor was sort of working.

when you say you "swapped" the motors, do you mean you desoldered the motors from the esc's and resoldered to the different esc?

Quote:So now i swapped the ESCs around, without desoldering the motors.

Do you mean you plugged the esc signals into different ports on the FC?  

Quote:Now the motors are back where they started and the front left ESC and front right ESC are swapped.
The front right motor is spinning inconsistently now. Also the back left motor is getting worse (number 3)

I think the motors are fine. Is it the ESC or naze32? probably ESC?

Also, I'm confident my soldering is good this time as well since I've been doing rework on smallest 0603 surface mount resistors, BGA , QFN parts etc. for years now. I want to get a nice hakko one day.

This debugging has really wasted my weekend lol. Really glad you guys are so helpful

I'm really not knocking your soldering skills, honest!  But if you didn't unsolder and resolder something in the steps above, then I would still be suspicious of solder joints.  (I'm pretty skilled as well, and it turned out a bad solder joint is what bit me in the butt.)  If you are certain you eliminated that possibility, then maybe you have a bad FC or ESC for sure.

Good luck with your troubleshooting.  Hope you get it sorted out.