It's on, boys.

The 1404's work just fine.  And the gyro traces look to be acceptable.  I may even be able to keep to my very aggressive filtering ...



Gyro scaled is now much more in line with what I would expect.  And frankly, after the fiasco earlier, I expected worse.  Of note, the gyro scaled with the 2004 motors had a thick, red band running straight up and down the motor noise line.





I've got some low frequency noise after filtering which I'm guessing is the thin bottom plate and no arm sandwich plate ...





Also, I should have prefaced these traces were during a very short living room hover in angle mode.  Still, I think I'm confident enough now to take this guy out and put it through the paces for some aggressive tuning.

I really don't know for sure what the issue was with the 2004s.  Too wide a motor for the geometry of this frame?  If I had the inclination I would try transplanting it to the Diatone Roma but I am freegin done with it lol.

Build pics forthcoming just gonna take a break for now lol.

P.S. 240ish auw

Build pics incoming ... just imagine those are Airblade Superman 1404s and not the T-Motor 2004s lol ...





I'm going with a Runcam Split 4 I had laying around because while it's 4K capable, it interferes with RapidFire's signal lock (same with the Caddx Loris).  But for close proximity freestyle, it should be fine ...





LOL at the teenie weenie Immortal T ...





I really wanted a ufl VTX with a mic and the HGLRC Zeus seemed to get decent enough reviews and it weighs close to nothing.  Not sure if I'll stick with it though, that oddball mounting is annoying my OCD more than I expected ...





Here are completed build pics with the Supermans ...










For reference, my auw with an 850mAh Tattu with the 2004s was 261g!!  That would have necessitated a smaller lipo and/or some weight cutting.  Raw frame weight was 162g.  With the Supermans, my raw weight is now 138g and auw ... drumroll lol ...



Sick.    

But let's see if it can still perform.  I have had my eyes on the 1606 variant of this motor.  For now though I think I'll stay away from these pancake style motors given the geometry of the frames I am making.

Awesome looking frame and build.   Strange to hear about the oscillation issue with the T-Motor  2004. 

Hope you will get it into production one day as I would join the queue to get a few and use one to  replace my porky IFlight Chimera 4/1404.

Thank you brother!  I am psyched to report the tuning went well.  Maybe I'm ultra sensitive for this tuning session but it just felt like I was lugging around a big butt when doing backward flips.  Forward flip felt fine at higher Ps and rolls felt fine at default.  I'm going to look at some traces now to hone in the P/D and head out again for FF fine tuning.

But nothing blowed up!!

[edit] Forgot - most importantly, motors were only warm to the touch using a D=40 for 4S.

They say a picture's worth a thousand words.  So here's a video.    

So awesome to have your own frame up and flying, congrats!

Regarding frame resonance, you may find the videos from this guy interesting: https://youtu.be/q2t61aSjj6M?t=1

While tuning my Diatone Roma F5 I learned that a fixed notch filter at the right frequency can make a big difference, without adding much delay: https://intofpv.com/t-diatone-roma-f5-re...#pid133669

And while re-tuning my small but aggressive Armattan Tadpole I learned that lowering the gyro_rpm_notch_q from the default of 500 to 400 or 350 can also help a lot to take away ALL motor related noise.

Hope this helps to find the perfect filtering for your frame!

very nice ronin!
performance on the superman motors looks good.

"what came across my way about 2004:
when i saw your post about the issue, i thought about magnet count... esc settings...
i use increased "startup power" for 1s settups."

Thanks guys. I do think kabab is onto something and agree that BF is really catered to standard 500g+ 5 inchers (they need to start getting away from this).

I'm making some final tweaks to the design but also designing a 1.5mm bottom sandwich plate to really up the rigidity. The flight video above is using the aggressive filtering with barely warm motors but the gyro_scaled shows there's some room for improvement. A sandwich plate should go a long way to address this.

Nice flight man! Looks like it's coming along nicely. Like that rubik's cube there towards the end. I think a sandwich plate might make a world of difference. Even if you do just 1mm. Just want to make sure my place is held in the preorder.

Lol no worries wllmlutz you'll get yours. After some thought, while the sandwich plate will really secure that middle portion from torque, it does nothing to address vibrations at the arms themselves. So since I've got a decent amount of headroom anyway, I decided opt for a thicker 2mm bottom plate (instead of 1.5mm) and 4mm arms (instead of 3mm). It's still a combined 6mm of CF thickness compared to using the 1.5mm sandwich plate I had in mind but will now give the arms a boost along its entire length in addition to some torque resistance at the body. Despite the thickness being a wash, I still would expect this to add I'm hoping no more than 10g which brings the weight dangerously close to 250 lol.

I've also shortened the body by a good 5mm taking 2mm at the front, 2mm between the stacks, and a mm at the tail. The thing just felt like I was swinging bags of potatoes on back flips lol.

Oh and lastly I redesigned the cam cage. I gave it a half mm extra girth but still using double 1mm plates. Also streamlined it a little bit so it doesn't look so phallic lol.

(27-Mar-2021, 07:04 PM)the.ronin Wrote: They say a picture's worth a thousand words.  So here's a video.    

Nice moves man and the Superman is not lacking doing those sharp moves. 

Thank you bro. I really put it through the paces this morning. I have confidence in this build now lol. The lady walking the dogs didn't even get all karen on me despite the flyby so that's always a good sign lol. Yea man I am kinda lovin this not gonna lie lol.

Alright boys. We've got v2 ready to cut just waiting to hear back.



I settled on the following changes ...

* 1.5mm brace plate. Thicker bottom plate and arms looks to be a good +10g delta while just a brace plate is about +5g. I figure it flies pretty darn good as it is, maybe this will do.

* Approx 5mm shortened. This may result in in some props in view (I hope not) but this was never meant to be a cine build and it really did feel a bit too long on the pitch axis.

* +0.5mm width around cam plates (still 1mm thick each) to give the streamlined plates a little more strength.

* now that I somewhat understand cnc bit sizes, I refined the graphics a bit to take full advantage of a 1mm bit which seems to be the smallest most shops will go.

Super excited to get this v2 going. I don't see the need for more changes after this so once I get this v2 tested and ripping, I'll see what I can do about getting this to retail somehow.

is the thikness of the topplate of the v1 1,5mm?
you told you cant get that low with filtering, im not sure about but i would order a second topplate with 2mm thinkness, had my empty source two frame in the hands today, the topplate does male the body stiff, probably there could come from resonance, as its topmounted battery there is some load; just a thought.

how is the power compared to your 1408, i believe you use some on 3inch?

I thought about that a lot hugs. Along with some combination of 2mm bottom plate and/or 4mm arms. In the end, I wanted to avoid "weight creep" making too many changes. I reasoned that 100g of lipo is ideally the max weight on that top plate so I figure I'd sacrifice potential gyro noise (I'm sure it's causing some especially on hard moves) for the weight savings.

Yes, I had 1408's on my Gecko and Acrobrat with those huge M5 bolts lol. Honestly, the power feels the same but I suspect it is because the 1404s are pushing 30g less and have 1 inch of extra prop. One big reason I want to avoid the weight creep is to leave room for bigger motors maybe 1408s or 15XX or even 16XX.

Anyway I'm refocusing my efforts now on the "Shinobi" sub250 endurance frame. I'm trying to think of a very different approach from the more traditional Ronin. But I don't think I'm going 5 inch and stick to 4 inch. The resonance issues the longer those arms are are a bigger pain than I anticipated.