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Racerstar RS20Ax4 20A 4 in 1
#1
I was looking through Banggood's products page and this jumped out at me. Only $23 for 4 20A esc? Seems too good to be true but the reviews I can find seem to say it works well!  Smile  You can get this with or without the wires to the motors soldered on. They also make normal esc's as well if you would rather not have the 4 in one version.
It supports oneshot42 and multishot.
   

Specification:
Brand Name: Racerstar
Item Name: 20A 4 in 1 Blheli_S Opto 2-4S ESC
Model: RS20Ax4
Input Voltage: 2-4S
Con.Current:20A
Peak Current(10s):25A
BEC:NO
Programming :YES
Installing Distance: 30mm
Weight:19g
Size(PCB):36x36mm
   


http://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-RS20Ax...68210.html
[-] The following 1 user Likes Xtopher98's post:
  • Oscar
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#2
I got the 20A normal escs, and they are really good! much smoother than littlebees
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#3
Bargain, ideal for clean builds without the ESCs on the arms.
Current quad: ZMR 250 / DYS SE2205 / Littlebee 20A ESCs / Drone Lab 1500 4S / Naze32 Rev5 / BF 2.7.1
FPV: Runcam Skyplus / Aomway 200mw VTX / Fatshark DomV1
>>>>>>>>>>Check Out My Build<<<<<<<<<<
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#4
There's V2 version on BB2 chip available for a few bucks more: http://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-RS20Ax...80541.html
Find me on Youtube and Instagram. I currently fly: DRC Aura, NOX5R, Minimalist 112 and drive a scrap RC car
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#5
(25-Aug-2016, 07:57 PM)Konrad Stepanajtys Wrote: There's V2 version on BB2 chip available for a few bucks more: http://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-RS20Ax...80541.html

Do you know if there is any difference from v1, except that they moved the soldering pads for the motors?
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#6
(25-Aug-2016, 08:13 PM)oyvinla Wrote: Do you know if there is any difference from v1, except that they moved the soldering pads for the motors?

Basically V2's are using a faster chip so you are able to use higher refresh rate on super high kV motors. But seriously, BB1 is fast enough for everyday flying. I still love my oneshot125 Littlebees driven by 2k/2k naze32 rev5 build and that's like 2 generations of "old". So to be honest, whichever you choose, you'll be happy.

But who knows what Boris and the gang will invent in the near future... I like to buy stuff that's futureproof, so I'd go with V2s but really it's just matter of preference right now.

Racerstars are rebranded Cicadas and that supposedly are very good ESCs - both BB1 and BB2 sort. I see there is Cicada 4in1 ESC and they also come in 2 revisions (check last photo): http://shop.fpv.ee/sunrise-cicada-20a-bl...1-esc.html
Find me on Youtube and Instagram. I currently fly: DRC Aura, NOX5R, Minimalist 112 and drive a scrap RC car
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#7
Do you use a PDB with a 4-in-1 like this, a just a couple of regulators?
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#8
I haven't yet. I normally sandwich my receiver, pdb, fc and vtx, so there is no room for a 4 in 1 esc for me. All the builds I have done so far had room for separate escs on each arm
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#9
I think 4in1 ESC is great to replace PDB when you strive for simplicity - some FCs use power from vbat, a cap or simple LC filter can be enough power for VTX and camera properly. In this case you only need a small pololu to power OSD if you use one.
Find me on Youtube and Instagram. I currently fly: DRC Aura, NOX5R, Minimalist 112 and drive a scrap RC car
[-] The following 2 users Like KonradS's post:
  • oyvinla, sloscotty
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#10
A question for you all, when I received my BB1 version, it of course had the M3 & M4 motor pad positions reversed from what Cleanflight & Betaflight want to see. 
My question is this; couldn't I just reverse the sense lines to the speed controller and then double check the rotation direction in the suite to accomplish keeping the wiring clean and simple?
I would greatly appreciate some input from you all.

Thank you much,

dave
That's not flying, that's just falling with style.
— Woody (Toy Story)
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#11
(15-Jan-2017, 10:45 PM)Hawki Pierce Wrote: A question for you all, when I received my BB1 version, it of course had the M3 & M4 motor pad positions reversed from what Cleanflight & Betaflight want to see. 
My question is this; couldn't I just reverse the sense lines to the speed controller and then double check the rotation direction in the suite to accomplish keeping the wiring clean and simple?
I would greatly appreciate some input from you all.

Thank you much,

dave


Yes, I'm pretty sure that you can solve it by just swapping the M3 and M4 signal wires from the FC like you say.
[-] The following 1 user Likes oyvinla's post:
  • Hawki Pierce
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#12
(15-Jan-2017, 10:50 PM)oyvinla Wrote: Yes, I'm pretty sure that you can solve it by just swapping the M3 and M4 signal wires from the FC like you say.

Thank you so very much for your quick response ... it's very much appreciated.  The longer I'm involved in this hobby, the more I appreciate the participants of it's community. 

cheers,  dave
That's not flying, that's just falling with style.
— Woody (Toy Story)
[-] The following 1 user Likes Hawki Pierce's post:
  • oyvinla
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