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Quad cleaning & maintenance
#1
Hello Forum,
I'm starting this thread on the suggestion of "DroneofPrey", who gave me the idea:
It indeed is not as obvious as it may seem: Cleaning your quad after lagging behind the usual noob-second on disarming your quad in the field, watching (..and hearing, somewhere behind your fpv-goggles, *heheee..) it greedily stuff itself (..in case anyone has troubles remembering propeller directions: They all move towards stuffing the quad's front and rear end with all sorts of stuff - like a hungry Italian stuffing himself with Spaghettis.. This is not a racist statement, I'm Italian myself and not a pretty sight in front of a dish of my favorite pasta.. ROFL ROFL ROFL)
So how do YOU clean your quad from grass, rubble, dust, oily etc. substances? Which products do you use and what are your experiences?
DroneOfPrey suggested spraying mild cleaners from the electronic and automotive industry UPON THE CLEANING/MICROFIBRE-CLOTH, not upon the quad (!!!), picking it clean with tweezers that you take along flying at first (..to which I might add an old toothbrush..)
Concerning cleaning, there's a linear equation for the necessity:
Cleaning time(proportional to amount of organic debris inside your quad)=(Lag to disarm*available debris on the field - your quad will find it!)/level of proficiency of the pilot.
Cleaning / Field packing list so far:
Tweezers
Old toothbrush

Cleaning / maintenance list:
Mild alcaline cleaner (e.g. window cleaner, or from the automotive industry)
mild electronics cleaner 
microfibre cloth
Patience

Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance,
Emanuele
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#2
I make sure I always have one of those cans of compressed air for cleaning keyboards, etc. on hand.  If nothing else, using one of those air dusters first will remove the easy stuff, reducing what requires a more painstaking process.  

Cotton swabs come in handy as well.  I'll use the Q-Tip type meant for ears only if I have to since they're not wound very tight and loosen up too easy.  Dental swabs work better for general work on the hobby bench.  I also have two sizes of Tamiya fine pointed swabs sold specifically for hobby use.  They're comparatively expensive, but the fine tip on those goes into just about any crevice.     Swabs can be dipped into water, Iso alcohol or lightly sprayed with a cleaner as required.
Kevin B.
Quads:
Custom 110mm FPV, NanoQX w/DX6i
Other: 3D printing (printer buildThingiverse), electronics, AVR microcontrollers
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#3
(27-Mar-2017, 01:08 PM)Thank you!! Wrote: Thumbs Up
Great input and really good ideas,
I'm sure it will make life easier for a lot of people Big Grin
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#4
I tried the canned air thing....not enough power for me....so I used the my electric compresser....150 lbs/sq in is a little too much....ok, ok...WAY too much (don't ask).  Now I settle for just picking the grass, pine cones, mud, dirt, bark and flowers out of the innards and light it off again....  I do try and keep the moisture level down and all my soldered connection are covered in liquid tape.  I oil my motors (lightly) about once every 6 months depending on their level of use and for me, that's about it. Big Grin
"Damn the torpedoes!!!  Full speed ahead!!!"
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#5
(27-Mar-2017, 04:51 PM)sirdude Wrote: I tried the canned air thing....not enough power for me....so I used the my electric compresser....1...

That's all that showed up in the reply notification email.  Before I had the chance to read the whole reply, I thought, man, that had to be a real messy machine and/or a *really* large one. Smile
Kevin B.
Quads:
Custom 110mm FPV, NanoQX w/DX6i
Other: 3D printing (printer buildThingiverse), electronics, AVR microcontrollers
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#6
(27-Mar-2017, 04:51 PM)sirdude Wrote: .so I used the my electric compresser....150 lbs/sq in is a little too much...
all my soldered connection are covered in liquid tape.
I oil my motors (lightly) about once every 6 months depending on their level of use and for me, that's about it. Big Grin

Heya Sirdude!
compressor.. - wheehh!!  Big Grin
One thing about the "poowaahh-solution" might be the degree of condensed humidity in the compressed air as well - for those not using liquid tape like me..
..but I've read about it a few times already and now you got me seriously curious:
Which product do you use and where do you get it?
seems to work out fine for you if you're sticking to this solution Big Grin
What kind of oil for the motors? Regular sewing machine oil (light organic), or fully synthetic stuff, or modified gooey red stuff?..
I was indeed wondering about motor maintenance: On quite some videos and as well my motors sometimes sound sort of "dry", and I wonder about the durability of the factory oiling. If the factory would use long-lasting oil, it would be some viscous, sticky stuff - which they don't, probably in order not to add friction to the moving parts (..which would immediately heat up considerably), so they opt for a very light and low-drag variant, which on the other hand evaporates quickly with heat and is readily blown away by the thrust of the propellers, I imagine..
Ask a "senior" automotive mechanician about motor oils, and you'll get an afternoon-long lecture. It's actually quite interesting!
Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up High Five

(27-Mar-2017, 06:45 PM)Helibus Wrote: That's all that showed up in the reply notification email.  Before I had the chance to read the whole reply, I thought, man, that had to be a real messy machine and/or a *really* large one. Smile

ROFL ROFL ROFL
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#7
This is what I use:

[Image: 610f7h2s-LL._SL1000_.jpg]

High and low speeds.  Use it on my computer and car too.
Can get at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Multi-Use-...B00V8S9XU6
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#8
(27-Mar-2017, 07:34 PM)campagnium Wrote: Heya Sirdude!
compressor.. - wheehh!!  Big Grin
One thing about the "poowaahh-solution" might be the degree of condensed humidity in the compressed air as well - for those not using liquid tape like me..
..but I've read about it a few times already and now you got me seriously curious:
Which product do you use and where do you get it?
seems to work out fine for you if you're sticking to this solution Big Grin
What kind of oil for the motors? Regular sewing machine oil (light organic), or fully synthetic stuff, or modified gooey red stuff?..
I was indeed wondering about motor maintenance: On quite some videos and as well my motors sometimes sound sort of "dry", and I wonder about the durability of the factory oiling. If the factory would use long-lasting oil, it would be some viscous, sticky stuff - which they don't, probably in order not to add friction to the moving parts (..which would immediately heat up considerably), so they opt for a very light and low-drag variant, which on the other hand evaporates quickly with heat and is readily blown away by the thrust of the propellers, I imagine..
Ask a "senior" automotive mechanician about motor oils, and you'll get an afternoon-long lecture. It's actually quite interesting!
Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up High Five


ROFL ROFL ROFL
I've never had a problem with the condensation in compressed air....not to say I won't at some point.  As far as the liquid tape goes, I just go to the heardwear store and get Liquid tape brand liquid tape.  Works for me.  With the motors, I use a synthetic oil.  Most people use too much, all that is needed is about a half a drop on the edge of the bearing race.

Back to the air...I like Scotty's solution and I may order one. Cool
"Damn the torpedoes!!!  Full speed ahead!!!"
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#9
Thanks for starting this thread Campagnium! ( ROFL You always make me laugh man!)

I threw a pair of tweezers in my flight pack to pick out debris after day one Wink they work great when the compressed air... I mean my face... cant blow it out haha Tongue
The Obsession IS Real!
My Youtube and Instagram links
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#10
You shouldn't use oil on your motor bearings!

Bearings are packed with grease. If you oil them, the oil will dilute the grease and allow it to run out of the bearing. Then you will have to oil them regularly!
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#11
(28-Mar-2017, 08:30 AM)unseen Wrote: You shouldn't use oil on your motor bearings!

Bearings are packed with grease. If you oil them, the oil will dilute the grease and allow it to run out of the bearing. Then you will have to oil them regularly!
I agree.
I have not put enough time on my quad motors for the need to maintenance them yet. But when it comes to my ground vehicles the biggest concern is just keeping dirt ect OUT of the bearing. Once they start to develop a catch/rough spot from dirt, you CAN use a light oil to help loosen/free it up BUT once damage is done to the internal sides of the races or the ball bearings, further damage is exponential and inevitable Wink leave them in long enough and you will eventually have a failure and risk damaging other components. (I have ruined pricey alloy parts before by seizing the outer race.) So I just install new replacements when there are signs of wear.
As for miniquad motors I am learning. Is it possible to replace their bearings? Even possibly upgrade to some very high end ceramic bearings (if they dont already, idk Wink )
The Obsession IS Real!
My Youtube and Instagram links
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#12
You can replace the bearings on most brushless motors, and the shafts as well. If you buy your motors from MyRCMart.com, they nearly always sell replacement shafts and bearings for them.

Of course, you also need spare retaining clips for the shafts as they're not meant to be re-used and you need a good way to hold the motor's base so that you can drive the old bearings out. The same for getting the shafts out of the bell.

Many shafts are glued in and are a tricky job to replace. Sure, heat will break down the glue, but you can't just torch the bell to get the shaft out as the heat will demagnetise the magnets. It's a time consuming process and really it's only something that I'd suggest to the most determined and thrifty. How much is your time worth to replace parts on a motor that only costs $12 to replace with a brand new motor?

It's certainly nice to see modern motors using screws instead of clips at the bottom of the shaft and using grub screws to hold the bell onto the shaft. These are much more maintainable than the older motors with glue and clips.
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#13
(28-Mar-2017, 06:18 PM)unseen Wrote: You can replace the bearings on most brushless motors, and the shafts as well. If you buy your motors from MyRCMart.com, they nearly always sell replacement shafts and bearings for them.

Of course, you also need spare retaining clips for the shafts as they're not meant to be re-used and you need a good way to hold the motor's base so that you can drive the old bearings out. The same for getting the shafts out of the bell.

Many shafts are glued in and are a tricky job to replace. Sure, heat will break down the glue, but you can't just torch the bell to get the shaft out as the heat will demagnetise the magnets. It's a time consuming process and really it's only something that I'd suggest to the most determined and thrifty. How much is your time worth to replace parts on a motor that only costs $12 to replace with a brand new motor?

It's certainly nice to see modern motors using screws instead of clips at the bottom of the shaft and using grub screws to hold the bell onto the shaft. These are much more maintainable than the older motors with glue and clips.

Thanks, that answered all my questions Wink :thumpsup:
The Obsession IS Real!
My Youtube and Instagram links
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