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PDB and FC Holder
#1
I am beginning a build of a F2F Nano 130 quad, and I designed this holder to mount my DemonCore PDB below the frame.  (I am also using the printed basher skids found on thingiverse.)

   

I decided I might want to do this for future builds and that it might be useful for others (and why not a slung-below FC sometimes), so I made a more generic design that is easily modified for almost any FC or PDB with 30.5mm mounting holes.  It's on thingiverse here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1622253

OpenSCAD is free and you should be able to modify the code (even if you don't know OpenSCAD).  Just change a couple of parameters, render, export to STL, and print.
Enjoy.
#2
Interesting. Are you mounting the battery top or bottom?
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#3
(06-12-2016, 06:20 PM)Trollhammered Wrote: Interesting. Are you mounting the battery top or bottom?

Battery will be on top. (Don't know why, but I'm not a fan of bottom-mounted batteries.) This will allow me to use only 20mm spacers between plates and get everything else in.
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#4
Very good idea! how much weight are the 3D printed parts?
Don't be a LOS'er, be a FPV'er :) -- My Fleet
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#5
(06-12-2016, 11:38 PM)Oscar Wrote: Very good idea! how much weight are the 3D printed parts?

The one I printed was for the DemonCore PDB with 5mm inside wall height.  It is 5.2 grams in Nylon w/20% infill.  (I used the shortened wall height because I'm using the basher skids which give me the additional 2mm clearance from the CF base.)  I'm guessing a standard height holder (1mm board + 6mm spacer) will be around 6 grams - then you have to add in the weight of the extra spacers...(maybe not, because the point of this is to remove some spacer height from between the CF plates).
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#6
My only concern is the PDB can get pretty hot if drawing enough current, and it might melt the 3D plastic... maybe give it a bit more space between the 3D part and PDB.
drill some holes on the PDB bay wall might help air flow too Smile
Don't be a LOS'er, be a FPV'er :) -- My Fleet
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#7
(06-13-2016, 12:28 AM)Oscar Wrote: My only concern is the PDB can get pretty hot if drawing enough current, and it might melt the 3D plastic... maybe give it a bit more space between the 3D part and PDB.
drill some holes on the PDB bay wall might help air flow too Smile

On mine, I will have a 1mm spacer below the pdb (and a 3mm spacer above).  There will be airflow on top and bottom of the pdb (and on all four sides with my mounting).  On the DemonCore, there are no components on the bottom, but I did think about adding some lightening holes in the bottom just to save weight.
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#8
(06-13-2016, 12:35 AM)sloscotty Wrote: On mine, I will have a 1mm spacer below the pdb (and a 3mm spacer above).  There will be airflow on top and bottom of the pdb (and on all four sides with my mounting).  On the DemonCore, there are no components on the bottom, but I did think about adding some lightening holes in the bottom just to save weight.

I can't imagine the PDB getting hot enough to melt nylon. Seems like most of your contact is on the mounting holes and the edges of the board. But 5.2 grams are you sure? The part looks like it should be a gram maybe 2 lighter. Some extra holes does sound like a good idea. Have you figured out how much weight your saving using 20mm spacers.
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#9
(06-13-2016, 04:19 AM)Trollhammered Wrote: I can't imagine the PDB getting hot enough to melt nylon. Seems like most of your contact is on the mounting holes and the edges of the board. But 5.2 grams are you sure? The part looks like it should be a gram maybe 2 lighter. Some extra holes does sound like a good idea. Have you figured out how much weight your saving using 20mm spacers.

I didn't weigh this fresh off the printer, and I was a little surprised too when I did go to weigh it.  I might print another in ABS (and double-check my infill) to compare.  Nylon is hygroscopic, but I can't believe that would account for a whole gram.

I don't think I'm saving any spacer-weight because I'm using spacers below (plus longer screws). Although I want to keep it light, I am more concerned with durability for this particular build.  This will be my back-yard learning (read "crash all the time") quad.  [I'm still hoping to come in at about 200-220 grams all-up. We'll see...]
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#10
I've had to change out my VTX on my Atom 122 and it won't fit inside the frame anymore. You've inspired me to mount it on top with a cover. I've been afraid of it getting to heavy for the little 1106 motors but if your aiming for 220 and that little Shrieker 130 Jordan Marinov built flys that good with a 1300mah, I'm probably hurting my brain for no reason. Maybe the 13xx would handle more weight. What motors you using?
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#11
(06-13-2016, 06:45 PM)Trollhammered Wrote: I've had to change out my VTX on my Atom 122 and it won't fit inside the frame anymore. You've inspired me to mount it on top with a cover. I've been afraid of it getting to heavy for the little 1106 motors but if your aiming for 220 and that little Shrieker 130 Jordan Marinov built flys that good with a 1300mah, I'm probably hurting my brain for no reason. Maybe the 13xx would handle more weight. What motors you using?

RCX 1105-4000 w/3020 props.  (I hope they don't disappoint.  I've got 1306-3100s w/4045 props on my 160 at 250g all-up, and they've got plenty of power for that frame.)

I too am feeling the pain of properly locating my VTx.  This is the main reason I wanted more room between the plates.  I am really frustrated by the form-factor of vtx's in general - even small ones.  I may yet spring for the AltitudeRC nano 25, but I hate paying that kind of money for a transmitter...
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#12
(06-13-2016, 09:57 PM)sloscotty Wrote: RCX 1105-4000 w/3020 props.  (I hope they don't disappoint.  I've got 1306-3100s w/4045 props on my 160 at 250g all-up, and they've got plenty of power for that frame.)

I too am feeling the pain of properly locating my VTx.  This is the main reason I wanted more room between the plates.  I am really frustrated by the form-factor of vtx's in general - even small ones.  I may yet spring for the AltitudeRC nano 25, but I hate paying that kind of money for a transmitter...

It looks to be close to the size of old Aomway 200mw to be honest - look how I soldered the VTX on my 130:



If You need pigtail, You can solder it the same way.
Find me on Youtube and Instagram. I currently fly: NOX5, NOX5RAirblade Assault 130 and drive a scrap RC car
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#13
(06-13-2016, 10:46 PM)Konrad Stepanajtys Wrote: It looks to be close to the size of old Aomway 200mw to be honest - look how I soldered the VTX on my 130:

Good idea.  I've done that on my brushed build, but I may do it on this one as well.
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#14
(06-13-2016, 09:57 PM)sloscotty Wrote: RCX 1105-4000 w/3020 props.  (I hope they don't disappoint.  I've got 1306-3100s w/4045 props on my 160 at 250g all-up, and they've got plenty of power for that frame.)

I too am feeling the pain of properly locating my VTx.  This is the main reason I wanted more room between the plates.  I am really frustrated by the form-factor of vtx's in general - even small ones.  I may yet spring for the AltitudeRC nano 25, but I hate paying that kind of money for a transmitter...

I'd never heard of that VTX so I looked it up. The pics look smaller than the dimensions given on RMRC. The Amoway is basically what I'm putting in it now. Give an update when you get your 130 in the air. My Atom is at 145g with 450mah now and I'm trying keep it below 150g.  
Something to consider that seems like it might save me some space is; I'm planning on ditching a PDB and just linking the ESCs running the wires along side the FC. Then I should be able to vertically mount a Pololu 12v almost anywhere. That's the plan anyway. The VTX might still end up on top with a cover. If yours does well at around 200g perhaps I can double purpose the VTX cover as a mount for an 808 cam.
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