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@ the RC park today and here are my results so far

Batteries 1,2,3=lumeniers on Diatone, moderate to simi agressive flying. A little warm no puffing. (Control)
Battery 4 =tattu on bumble, light flying 2 min flight time. Battery cool, no puffing.
Battery 5 =lumenier on bumble, light flying 2 min flight time, battery cool, no puffing
Battery 6=tattu on bumble, agressive flying 2.5 min flight time, warm but no puffing.
Battery 7 =lumeniere on bumble agressive flying 2.5 min flight time, warm with possible puffing but im not sure

I know it's OT, but did the Diatone feel any better to you?

(03-Jun-2017, 05:42 PM)sloscotty Wrote: I know it's OT, but did the Diatone feel any better to you?

When I used the lense from the bumblebee and jammed the camera into the right position it felt a little better but it's still not right.I think I just need to get it tuned and to get used to it.

I think I am starting to understand the issue. It draws much more current than either of the other quads and I think that is assisted by agressive flights. Ultimately I am rapidly overdischarging. I suspect the c ratings are only any good while the battery has more charge. As it starts to get lower the high draw is damaging it.

2.5 min of flight time took me down to 14.8: 3.69 3.70, 3.69, 3.70

Just as a comparison, i always have timer set to 2min 30sec, and depending on how aggressive i was flying i know i'll have to land quickly, or can cruise just a little bit longer...

My rage210 has higher kV motors but also very light (2.6g) hq5045 2blades.

All in all i think what you see is pretty normal. Also, over time you'll get a feeling for how to convert speed to height, so getting hangtime won't depend so much on pure straight-up punchouts anymore.

As hinted to above I understand my issue better now. As suspected it's a combination of the 3 following things. Resolving any one will fix the problem for me but I am going to fix two.

1. Lumenier batteries puff easier, but not all puffing is the same as damaged battery puffing. By the end of the day I learned that the lumeniers puff a little but go back down once they are cooled. This may be a different gasses issue than the typical puffy battery issue. I have actually only ruined 1 battery. The others have simply been abused a bit.

2. Giving an already sensitive battery an aggressive load with tons of punchouts and wild moves past the point where it's already worn down isn't a good idea... of the battery needs to be landed soon I shouldn't do one less punch out trick just for fun... that is the point to take it easy

3. If I don't overdo it on the battery it won't get hot enough to be a problem... This is the root cause that I won't be doing.


Ultimately if I switch to a better battery and set THs to 2.5 min as fftunes suggests I should be good.

The guys for helping me troubleshoot. I've learned a ton on this one!

Helping to prevent battery abuse is the best thing about having a current sensor on a craft.

Not only can you see how much current a full throttle punch out actually draws, you can also use the sensor's data to record how much power you have removed from the battery. If you can do that, you can land when the battery has delivered 70 - 80% of its rated capacity instead of just basing the decision on the battery's voltage. Actual consumption is a much more reliable metric.

(04-Jun-2017, 08:58 AM)unseen Wrote: Helping to prevent battery abuse is the best thing about having a current sensor on a craft.

Not only can you see how much current a full throttle punch out actually draws, you can also use the sensor's data to record how much power you have removed from the battery. If you can do that, you can land when the battery has delivered 70 - 80% of its rated capacity instead of just basing the decision on the battery's voltage. Actual consumption is a much more reliable metric.

Agreed... in fact the top priority for a second build is proper OSD with current draw and voltage displayed. I've got it on the sedan and minivan... I just need it on the sports car now... 

I may re-wire the receiver so that I can get proper telemetry on this one.

So it's flying day again (maybe... I am not clear as to what is going on at the field today). I decided to pull the batteries out of the garage (the ones that were scary before) and check them out. Consistent with the rest of my learning they were no longer pufft'. So I charged them at my coffee table in a lipo bag (this way I could check them every few minutes).

IR on both was at OK levels (<10 on all cells) and they both charged in a reasonable amount of time. One was warm at the end of the charge though so that one will be retired. The other was cool and fine so I am going to try flying it and see how it goes.

I also have a couple of new square Tattu R-Lines that I bought from crowncityfpv (Thanks JimmyLe for showing me the site, they have some of the better prices on the R-Line). So I'll give those a try as well. I fully expect them to do as well as my other R-lines.

These batteries are so bad...

So I finished a flight, didn't overuse the battery... but I needed to wait to recover my quad from the field because someone else was flying.

By the time I got my quad the battery was practically a sausage:



After it cooled off cell 4 was obviously damaged... The swelling had gone down but the casing had been stretched... it was like a blister that had been popped, but there was no pop involved. I hooked it up to check for internal resistance and sure enough cell 4=52... So this battery is now officially retired.

Hopefully I don't end up with one of these catching one of my quads on fire! I will be pissed.

So far I haven't decided to just scrap all of them yet though... maybe I do need to consider flying only the tattus on the bumblebee though.

who knows, the ghost pirate may not be as thirsty (although I seriously doubt it... even the diatone guzzles power if I fly it like the bumblebee... I think I've discovered that the real issue is the nut behind the sticks!)