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Other beginner options to the X220
#16
Haha cool, we are something like building bros xD

Interesting to read about the research and comparison you did. Your statement about the PDB is really interesting. I really like the fact that there is some filtering circuitry on the PDB. I can't imagine that noise will not be an issue thinking about those high current draws and signal forms. LEDs are not really important to me right now but it's nice to know that there are already voltage outputs for LEDs on the PDB.

I gonna take a look into all the options of the OSD on the Diatone SP3. I think i don't really need all the fancy stuff but at least some inputs would be nice (of course like the voltage). Maybe i will switch to the Swift 2 and use only that OSD and switch to another Video TX.

Yeah I will probably go for some bang/buck antennas aswell now that you mention it ^^ Post me the link to your thread once u opened it
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#17
I would recommend an osd and a current sensor. I think the betaflight FC or the omnibus f3 or F4 with osd paired with a pdb with a current sensor would be a good combo.

The voltage sag is not the same on different batteries, which again makes the voltage monitoring not so accurate. Also, I find it much more hasle to look at the voltage all the time instead of the actual consumption. For example, just a quick look at your consumption and you know that you have about half the pack left.

It is also a good idea to have a quick look at your voltage before you start flying so you are sure the pack is fully charged.

I haven't puffed a pack yet, and I think that is because I'm flying with a current sensor. When I land, the cell voltage is almost never lower than 3.7V
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#18
Guys, don't look on MW on VTX as a "how far can i go" it doesn't work that way, it is better and safer to get a good antennas and not to boos the MW to high... im flying on overkill 200 mw... and i try to stay within 500m radius... i've successfully flown on 25mw for over 100 m from my self (it could be better but im not using specialized antennas
All the best
Grzesiek (Grisha/ Greg)

Curently flyable: Nox 5, Minimalist 112
Bench / in progres: fixing Nox 3,  Scrap
thinking about building: 450


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#19
(01-Feb-2017, 07:00 PM)Grisha0 Wrote: Guys, don't look on MW on VTX as a "how far can i go" it doesn't work that way, it is better and safer to get a good antennas and not to boos the MW to high... im flying on overkill 200 mw... and i try to stay within 500m radius... i've successfully flown on 25mw for over 100 m from my self (it could be better but im not using specialized  antennas

Yes agreed. I should have specified more. System performs as a whole. Also stronger signals produce more bounceback in obstacle heavy environments (e.g. indoors/carparks ect) but can be, cleaned up, so to speak, with high quality antennas. Ty Grisha0

Here is the link to my build plan Apicalis as requested! Build bro!  Wink Cool
The Obsession IS Real!
My Youtube and Instagram links
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#20
@oyvinla yeah i wanted to see the overall power consumption but i totally forgot that you can't measure the current without a precision resistor in the PDB. I just thought I jam that video TX/OSD board in there. Do you have a recommendable PDB with current sensing? The Demon RC PDB doesn't seem to have it :/ Maybe i read the description wrong

@Grisha0 it's still good to have the option to ramp it up and down for certain situations Smile

@Drone0fPrey Thank you for the link.

Well i just ordered the Flysky FS-i6X with X6B I-BUS Receiver and the 22 in 1 RC Flight Simulator Cable to use it on Simulators Smile What simulator would you recommend? I prefer Realism over Graphics. Maybe i can "find" the expensive simulators on my "online backups" ... ^^
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#21
There is a realacc/matek pdb on banggood which has a current sensor. I havent tried it yet, but I got it installed in a new quad right now.

Otherwise the pdb look quite similar to the realacc/matek hubosd which I have two of. One has been working great, but on the other, I have had trouble with elecrrical noise disturbing the osd. But both has been working fine as pdbs. The one with trouble osd, I have installed a micro minimosd and it works great as just a pdb. Keep in mind that I always try to use capacitors for noise filtering on my builds. 4x470uf low ESR rubycon or panasonic.

I have noticed that matek/realacc has released a new version of the hubosd, but I don't know much about it. I would assume they have addressed the issue where the osd is very sensitive to noise and giving blackouts.
Unfortunately I could find it now, but I do remember seeing it on banggood for 19.99usd or something

http://m.banggood.com/Realacc-Matek-PDB-...11981.html

http://www.fpvmodel.com/matek-pdb-xpw-w-...g1229.html

There is also a holybro pdb with built in osd and current sensor which looks interesting, but I don't know how it performs

http://m.banggood.com/Holybro-5V12V-Outp...97722.html
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#22
I got to test the quad with the matek PDB-XPW with two batteries today and it seems to work good. No noticeable video noise during punchouts or fast flips. This time I used 4 Panasonic low ESR capacitors and they seem to do the job as well. My camera is connected to 5V and the FC is connected to 12V
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#23
Very interesting to read. I really need to reconfigure the parts i gonna buy for my quad. Btw. did u immediatly add the caps or did you make a testrun before to compare it?

Where do you add those caps? I would guess the the Positive Voltage solder pads (corners of the PDB) parallel to the power wires that feed the ESCs or do you solder them directly to the ESCs which in my opinion would be even more effective regarding buffering and lowering noise.

EDIT: Did you mount the XT60 directly or did u add some wire between the PCB and the Connector? Heard they often break off in crashes
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#24
(03-Feb-2017, 07:45 AM)Apicalis Wrote: Very interesting to read. I really need to reconfigure the parts i gonna buy for my quad. Btw. did u immediatly add the caps or did you make a testrun before to compare it?

Where do you add those caps? I would guess the the Positive Voltage solder pads (corners of the PDB) parallel to the power wires that feed the ESCs or do you solder them directly to the ESCs which in my opinion would be even more effective regarding buffering and lowering noise.

EDIT: Did you mount the XT60 directly or did u add some wire between the PCB and the Connector? Heard they often break off in crashes

After having trouble with electrical noise before, I just add the capacitors without doing any further testing. The worst that can happen is that I have added a couple of unnecessary grams. I normally put then on the power pads on each ESC, but on my latest build (X210 pro) there wasn't enough room for it on the front ESCs, so I soldered those two to the PDB on the front ESC power pads. From my understanding it is best to install them as close to the noise source as possible, which in our case will be the ESC.

The XT60 that comes with the PDB is a new style that is soldered directly and points outwards instead of the old style which pointed down or up. I dont trust hard soldered plugs and just like you pointed out, I do believe they break more easily in crashes. Thats why i took an old style XT60 and soldered it to a pigtail.
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#25
Yeah that was my thought too for the caps. Ty for the info about the XT60, intended to do the same.

Btw. i just thought about the wires. Are they included in all the things I order or should i get some collection of wires that are often used on FPV Quads? Also Standoffs etc. (i got heatshrink tubing and a good amount of wires but not that fat diameter)
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#26
Normally, you get cables with the escs, but you should probably buy some for battery power and signal wires. For the battery, 12-14awg should do it and signals 26-30awg. I use 30awg because it is really nice to work with IMO. Take a look here for more information regarding amp draw etc

https://oscarliang.com/wire-awg-chart-quadcopter-rc/
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#27
Thank you for the Wiretable. I have to say, i really hate the that AWG system xD in germany we use mm². But that's not relevant. The good thing is, i work in radio communications so i can easly get the signal wires but i will order some wires for the actual power delivery somewhere here in germany since i had really bad expirience with el cheapo wires from china and their isolation under heat. Even the damn shrink tubing is absolute shit.
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#28
Here is some links to the wires I have bought on eBay. They have been the same quality as the power cables that comes with the escs.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/30AWG-Flexible-Sil...4040652010

http://m.ebay.com/itm/2x-18-Gauge-AWG-Bl...7794477018
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#29
Hmm i am still not sure which PDB to pick.

Looking for these specifications:
- 5V and 12V reg
- LC Filtered
- ESC +/- pads on both ends of the board. Preferably with separted solder pads rather than one big solder pad. In germany we call those "wärmefallen" which translates to "Heattrap" regarding that oversized solderpads "eat up the heat" and distribute it so it's rather difficult to solder them. But of course that's one of my least concerns.
- Onboard OSD with power consumption display.
- Preferably with an automatic buzzer (not controlled by the radio)


So far during my research i found these, but i can find totally different opinions :/ Nothing really reliable.
Btw. oyvinla, the PDBs with current sensor just means they have a precision resistor and the voltage across it can be measured by a separate OSD?

http://www.fpvmodel.com/matek-pdb-bec-5v...g1046.html

http://quadrevo.com/index.php?route=prod...duct_id=56

http://www.banggood.com/MXK-Power-Distri...01201408U4
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#30
(07-Feb-2017, 08:38 AM)Apicalis Wrote: Hmm i am still not sure which PDB to pick.

Looking for these specifications:
- 5V and 12V reg
- LC Filtered
- ESC +/- pads on both ends of the board. Preferably with separted solder pads rather than one big solder pad. In germany we call those "wärmefallen" which translates to "Heattrap" regarding that oversized solderpads "eat up the heat" and distribute it so it's rather difficult to solder them. But of course that's one of my least concerns.
- Onboard OSD with power consumption display.
- Preferably with an automatic buzzer (not controlled by the radio)


So far during my research i found these, but i can find totally different opinions :/ Nothing really reliable.
Btw. oyvinla, the PDBs with current sensor just means they have a precision resistor and the voltage across it can be measured by a separate OSD?

http://www.fpvmodel.com/matek-pdb-bec-5v...g1046.html

http://quadrevo.com/index.php?route=prod...duct_id=56

http://www.banggood.com/MXK-Power-Distri...01201408U4

The PDBs with current sensor normally has a current signal pad for connecting to the FC or OSD. I usually connect battery voltage and current to my FC and then connect the OSD on one of the UARTs on the FC. Now you will have to set up betaflight/cleanflight with a current sensor (described in the manual on FPVmodels) and set up your mwosd to get the current from the FC.

I would not recommend the MXK PDB you linked to, it is known to have some issues with noise and a problematic OSD. I ordered one, and it did not work, so they sent me a new one, but it is not very stable. Lots of noise on the video feed. It also doesnt have a current sensor, so you will have to add one, which is a bit hassle. It is also only rated for 70A/110A, which could be a potential problem if you are running good quality 4S batteries

BTW, you mention heat and solder. Check out the TS100 soldering iron on banggood. It solders thick wires and pads like a champ! Heats up in like 10 seconds. 200-400C. Just remember to get a 12-24V power adapter. the higher the voltage, the more wattage you will have at your disposal.
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