hi, thank you, i will try that the only wiring diagram i found is this https://imgaz.staticbg.com/images/oauplo...5.jpg.webp but that not necessarily contradicts what you wrote. i didn't find a mount for the geprc mrk4 frame which mounts the immortal t vertically AND the bn 880. this looked fine: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3874685 but is for bn220 and R9. also, i found it relatively expensive to order 3d-prints but i will continue searching. fornow, i ordered this https://de.banggood.com/GEPRC-3D-Printed...40894.html and this https://de.banggood.com/URUAV-3D-Printed...ds=myorder maybe i can put it together. since it is better to mount the crossfire antenna vertically i thought about use one of the wire antennas in the starter kit to build an immortal L with zipties. i am a bit confused since i heard that crossfire wire antennas with grey heatshrink are for american frequency (900MHz), not for the european (868MHz). Some say, that doesn't matter. Regards.
(29-Apr-2021, 11:57 PM)Cyfly Wrote: hi, thank you, i will try that the only wiring diagram i found is this https://imgaz.staticbg.com/images/oauplo...5.jpg.webp but that not necessarily contradicts what you wrote. i didn't find a mount for the geprc mrk4 frame which mounts the immortal t vertically AND the bn 880. this looked fine: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3874685 but is for bn220 and R9. also, i found it relatively expensive to order 3d-prints but i will continue searching. fornow, i ordered this https://de.banggood.com/GEPRC-3D-Printed...40894.html and this https://de.banggood.com/URUAV-3D-Printed...ds=myorder maybe i can put it together. since it is better to mount the crossfire antenna vertically i thought about use one of the wire antennas in the starter kit to build an immortal L with zipties. i am a bit confused since i heard that crossfire wire antennas with grey heatshrink are for american frequency (900MHz), not for the european (868MHz). Some say, that doesn't matter. Regards.
That wiring diagram is correct, the only place where it differs from mine is the 5V, which works out the same, I just recommended you get 5v from the buz + pad since you were low on 5v pads.
Sounds good, interested to see pics once you piece it together.
I'm not sure on the antenna, technically they are tuned pretty precisely, but the difference in range would probably be quite small, especially since 900mhz isn't as picky with antenna tuning as some of the higher frequencies we use.
06-May-2021, 11:01 PM (This post was last modified: 07-May-2021, 12:12 AM by Cyfly.)
Hi,
i finished mostly everything now and send some pictures attached. Thanks for your help! If you like to, please consider discussing this bunch of points with me:
i think the guy who published the parts of this copter as his longrange build didn't really attune the components to each other. the frame is so narrow that the contacts of FC and VTX are pretty exposed. What would you do here? Also, the VTX antenna doesn't really looks like a long range antenna to me.
My temporary mounting solutions for GPS, VTX-Antenna and selfmade "Immortal L" (which i hope won't get chopped off) seem to work, but i think i should look for a more enduring solution. Also for the VTX Antenna, which cuddles with the battery and its cables.
strangely the magnetometer only works fine, when i configure it to an alignment of CW 90° flip
because i was used to, i switched off default Airmode and tried to configure "Stop motors on low throttle" but i get a warning. Here: https://github.com/iNavFlight/inav/blob/...ontrols.md i found this: "With multirotors, the motors will spin at a slow speed when armed (this feature may be disabled by setting MOTOR_STOP, but for safety reasons, that is not recommended)" I am wondering what "safety reasons" that could be. Maybe meant is that people are more careful with a copter when they see that the propellers are rotating? Stabilisation when the Copter drops? And are you flying with airmode always on? Why? Do you have to disarm to land then?
i switched failsafe to "drop". lateron i would like to use RTH or configuring a RTH switch. what are your experiences with RTH in INAV?
i didn't find a good howto for how to configure the camera settings. do you do that? i don't have any UART left, just the for led-stripe-plugs. on my image in the cheap googles the borders of the video are getting chopped off.
maybe it could be a good idea to mount one or two white position leds on front of the copter so its easier to see which side is front when the copter is in sight. i would use the led pad for that. what do you think?
i finished mostly everything now and send some pictures attached. Thanks for your help! If you like to, please consider discussing this bunch of points with me:
i think the guy who published the parts of this copter as his longrange build didn't really attune the components to each other. the frame is so narrow that the contacts of FC and VTX are pretty exposed. What would you do here? Also, the VTX antenna doesn't really looks like a long range antenna to me.
My temporary mounting solutions for GPS, VTX-Antenna and selfmade "Immortal L" (which i hope won't get chopped off) seem to work, but i think i should look for a more enduring solution. Also for the VTX Antenna, which cuddles with the battery.
strangely the magnetometer only works fine, when i configure it to an alignment of CW 90° flip
because i was used to, i switched off default Airmode and tried to configure "Stop motors on low throttle" but i get a warning. Here: https://github.com/iNavFlight/inav/blob/...ontrols.md i found this: "With multirotors, the motors will spin at a slow speed when armed (this feature may be disabled by setting MOTOR_STOP, but for safety reasons, that is not recommended)" I am wondering what "safety reasons" that could be. Maybe meant is that people are more careful with a copter when they see that the propellers are rotating? Stabilisation when the Copter drops? And are you flying with airmode always on? Why? Do you have to disarm to land then?
i switched failsafe to "drop". lateron i would like to use RTH or configuring a RTH switch. what are your experiences with RTH in INAV?
i didn't find a good howto for how to configure the camera settings. do you do that? i don't have any UART left, just the for led-stripe-plugs. on my image in the cheap googles the borders of the video are getting chopped off.
maybe it could be a good idea to mount one or two white position leds on front of the copter so its easier to see which side is front when the copter is in sight. i would use the led pad for that. what do you think?
regards!
Hi Cyfly,
I will answer each of your dotpoints below,
i think the guy who published the parts of this copter as his longrange build didn't really attune the components to each other. the frame is so narrow that the contacts of FC and VTX are pretty exposed. What would you do here? Also, the VTX antenna doesn't really looks like a long range antenna to me. Looking at your pictures, this is pretty standard, you normally have a bit of components sticking out the side of the frame. If you are worried you could heatshrink the VTX and mount it differently, but it won't really matter.That VTX antenna should be fine for long range, you have to remember that with antennas, if they give longer range then you are shortening the range in a different direction (to some degree) this is why we run antennas like this on the quad but then use a big patch antenna on the goggles, because you want signal in any orientation of the quad, but it will generally only be infront of your goggles.
My temporary mounting solutions for GPS, VTX-Antenna and selfmade "Immortal L" (which i hope won't get chopped off) seem to work, but i think i should look for a more enduring solution. Also for the VTX Antenna, which cuddles with the battery. Look into 3D printed mounts, there are some real nice ones that will mount a GPS, SMA and a Immortal T that you could make work nicely. I think you need to get your VTX antenna up and out the back of the frame a bit more, remember that when flying your quad will be at a 35 degree tilt forward or more normally so you need to adjust the vtx antenna to be vertical at this tilt, and still be above the top of the frame at this tilt. (FYI, you never fly a FPV craft backwards, always keeping moving forwards)
strangely the magnetometer only works fine, when i configure it to an alignment of CW 90° flip I havent messed with magnometers much so I dont have a lot to add here.
because i was used to, i switched off default Airmode and tried to configure "Stop motors on low throttle" but i get a warning. Here: https://github.com/iNavFlight/inav/blob/...ontrols.md i found this: "With multirotors, the motors will spin at a slow speed when armed (this feature may be disabled by setting MOTOR_STOP, but for safety reasons, that is not recommended)" I am wondering what "safety reasons" that could be. Maybe meant is that people are more careful with a copter when they see that the propellers are rotating? Stabilisation when the Copter drops? And are you flying with airmode always on? Why? Do you have to disarm to land then? When your motors are armed and at idle, the FC will still use them to keep the quad at the attitude it's currently at, if you tell them to stop it can't do this anymore and your quad will just tumble out of the sky when you go to 0 throttle. I recommend you don't make the motors stop at 0 throttle for this reason.
i switched failsafe to "drop". lateron i would like to use RTH or configuring a RTH switch. what are your experiences with RTH in INAV? I have no experience here sorry.
i didn't find a good howto for how to configure the camera settings. do you do that? i don't have any UART left, just the for led-stripe-plugs. on my image in the cheap googles the borders of the video are getting chopped off. What makes you think the borders of the video are being chopped off? Do you have some other kind of reference?The only image settings you can set are NTSC/PAL, and then some colour and light options. Most cameras come with a little plugin controller to do this.
maybe it could be a good idea to mount one or two white position leds on front of the copter so its easier to see which side is front when the copter is in sight. i would use the led pad for that. what do you think? I believe the LED pad is for controlling addressable LED's like WS2812B LED's, You can get a little strip of them, or individual ones, you connect 5v and gnd to them and then daisy chain the LED pad through the signal pads of the LED's. Then in betaflight you can map them to turn on when you turn or something or to turn on and off or change colour by flicking a switch on your radio.If you get normal LED's you can just power them with 5V and gnd.With any LED's, make sure your voltage regulators have enough headroom to power them, or you might need to get a seperate BEC if you have too much running off of 5V.
thanks for your answers. one last thing: ther eisn't enough space under the ESC for a battery strap i would like to dtrsp s bigger battery to the bottom. maybe it could be better to get longer screws and put some more o-rings under the ESC, but there is not much space between top and bottom plate so i am thinking about how to solve that.
i hope very much that i would be able make the maiden flight this weekend.
(06-May-2021, 11:56 PM)Cyfly Wrote: thanks for your answers. one last thing: ther eisn't enough space under the ESC for a battery strap i would like to dtrsp s bigger battery to the bottom. maybe it could be better to get longer screws and put some more o-rings under the ESC, but there is not much space between top and bottom plate so i am thinking about how to solve that.
i hope very much that i would be able make the maiden flight this weekend.
Really the only solution here is just to change the spacing of the FC and ESC as you already mentioned.
18-May-2021, 06:04 PM (This post was last modified: 18-May-2021, 06:06 PM by Cyfly.)
(06-May-2021, 11:30 PM)bffigjam Wrote: Look into 3D printed mounts, there are some real nice ones that will mount a GPS, SMA and a Immortal T that you could make work nicely.
dear dave, i am trying to find sth like that. the one i like ost for compass & vtx antenna is this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3907990 but my vtx antenna with u.fl connector needs 2 little holes on the side so i could mount the antenna holder like on the backplate itself:
do you have experiences with software i could use to change the part from thingiverse? could you recommend one?
(18-May-2021, 06:04 PM)Cyfly Wrote: dear dave, i am trying to find sth like that. the one i like ost for compass & vtx antenna is this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3907990 but my vtx antenna with u.fl connector needs 2 little holes on the side so i could mount the antenna holder like on the backplate itself:
do you have experiences with software i could use to change the part from thingiverse? could you recommend one?
For a beginner editing 3D files I would recommend tinkercad.
In this instance I would probably get it printed from TPU and just cut/drill the holes through the mount.
Otherwise I might be able to draw something, but I have a 2 week lead time at the moment on 3d Modelled parts due to my workload. A part like this would take me less than an hour to produce.
unfortunately in german, but since i find the time to translate it into english, maybe you could use google translate or similar, if you are interested:
![[-]](https://intofpv.com/images/collapse.png)
