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New build with no room for capacitor. Where should I put it ?
#1
Hi guys, 

I'm building a new quad based on LMultirotors LM2 V3 frame. The problem is thst in the Caddx Vista version there is very small room for components. I was already forced to turn the ESC 90° on the right with the battery pads on right side but... where should i put the capacitor ?

Since the battery connector is very short, (about 5 cm I would say) I was considering the option of soldering the capacitor to the XT60 connector on the pigtail.  I think it's better than connect it through longer (and thinner) extension wires around the frame.

What do you think ? Is it so bad to have tha capacitor at the end of a short pigtail ?

ESC is a speedybee 45A with 4 x Smoox 2306.5 1880kv motors (6s battery)
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#2
if there us no space, i mount the cap on the bottom of an arm. with extension wires.

i believe its better than on the xt60 itself, at least for durability/crash resistance, cap on the xt60 is bad.
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#3
I agree. Mount it on the arms or you can mount it on the standoffs. Just keep the extension wires as short as possible. Really short.
[-] The following 1 user Likes kafie1980's post:
  • ethr
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#4
the most important is to solder the wires as close to the capacitator base as possible, cut the two leads to about 3mm...
solder it directly doesnt allow to keep the cap leads short, i believe there is the huge downside of mount it on the xt60
[-] The following 2 users Like hugnosed_bat's post:
  • ethr, the.ronin
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#5
You could cover a capacitor in shrink-wrap, and zip-tie it to a standoff. Like the standoff next to the camera plate on that frame, and then run short extension wires to the battery pads of the ESC. Just make sure it will clear your props.

Or it might also fit in front of the ESC behind the camera, again with short wires connecting it to the lipo pads of the ESC.
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#6
(24-Sep-2021, 12:15 PM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: the most important is to solder the wires as close to the capacitator base as possible, cut the two leads to about 3mm...
solder it directly doesnt allow to keep the cap leads short, i believe there is the huge downside of mount it on the xt60

This is what I've heard as well. That it's not so much the distance from the cap to the pads but rather the leads off the cap to the wiring. Only thing is, you gotta have some serious cajones to be soldering 3mm from the cap lol. I'm at 5mm min and maybe more like 6 or 7.
roninUAV | Purveyor of fine sub-250g FPV drone frames. «» FPV threads

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#7
You can use Cap Caps.

You put the leads through the PCB and solder, then cut off the extra.  Then you solder wires to the PCB, so they are right at the capacitor without having to solder directly on the bottom of the capacitor.

https://fpvcycle.com/products/wafl-s-fpv...ors-2-pack

[Image: iez3I7ll.jpg]

[Image: 3rnzNqfl.jpg]
[-] The following 1 user Likes MrSolo's post:
  • Critterracing
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#8
I love that idea but I have not seen them in my neck of the woods. Last time I ordered Babytooth parts from FPVCycle, these were out of stock.

They make for a compact way to solder to capacitors compared to direct soldering wires to the legs and adding heat shrink.
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#9
There is no need to use cap caps or heat shrink sleeving. Just cut the legs off almost flush with the bottom of the capacitor so there is 0.5mm of leg remaining, then simply solder the wires to those remaining leg stubs...

[Image: OQg8Brnl.jpg]
[-] The following 2 users Like SnowLeopardFPV's post:
  • Trupik, ethr
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#10
1. Good low ESR like Panasonic FM or Elna RJF ( those are on top of Oscar Loangs list).

2. Leave 2mm on leads. Bend almost flush to cap.

3. Dont tin AWG20 with 2mm exposed. Dip in lots of flux. You need very hot iron because much better than keeping on cap too long.

4. Have damp sponge ready. Touch tinned iron onto wire and feed solder. The flux bubbles. Takes 2sec.
Quickly cover cap with sponge to cool it.
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