Hey Nihal

I assume the frame you order is ZMR from FPVmodel with PDB as one of the bottom plates: http://www.fpvmodel.com/zmr250-v2-250mm-...g1005.html
It looks like this PDB has 5V regulator, since you're planning using 3s pack, you don't need anything else.

As for rest of your parts:
- lipo will be too heavy, it will behave like a school bus. Aim in something like 1300-1600mah, 1800mah as absolute max. I'd aim for 4s packs rather than 3s. You will eventually regret buying 3s packs in the future. If you're afraid of having too much power, go for lighter props like 5030 or 5040.

- motors - while those DYS are not bad of a motor, this is king of old. I'd look for something more powerful, racerstar 2205 2300kv seem to be fine and they are at similar price. But then again - DYS aren't bad motors, I fly them still on one quad and they are awesome - BUT you have to keep weight at absolute minimum and that's not something a newbie will likely accomplish, especially, that frame you chose is not the lightest one.

- 600mw transmitter - that's a lot of power. For typical short range (i mean 200 metres with obstacles and lets say 500 metres with none) flying with 200mw is enough and also generates less heat and won't interfere that much with other pilots if you come across some.

- ultrasonic module - that's fine if you just want to play with it a bit, you won't use it for very long

- prop choice is good for a larger motor (ie. 2204+), for 1806 it will be too much, but if you stay at 3s, will be fine even for those DYS.

- radio is matter of preference, however most choose Taranis and frsky modules for reliability and receivers price.

EDIT: remember that 1806 DYS have 2mm mounting holes, larger motors usually have 3mm. I don't know if you already bought the frame or not - check size of mounting holes. You can choose motor size on fpvmodel website (I see only 1806 size is available right now).

i think you also left me a comment on my blog looks like Konrad has got you sorted

Racerstar 20A ESCs and 2205 2300KV are really good. I have that on my favourite setup matched with kingkong 5045 Tri-blades. For less power in the start I would go for the 5040 kingkong prop.

A nice PDB with osd can be found here:
http://www.fpvmodel.com/matek-hubosd-eco...g1177.html
http://www.fpvmodel.com/matek-hubosd-eco...g1176.html
http://www.banggood.com/Realacc-HUBOSD-E...68098.html

The two last ones are the same product, and I did a quick test of one yesterday and I was quite happy with it. The only downside was the missing abbility to tune your PIDS and etc like you can with a minimosd. But the minimosd is a bit tricky to set up and it is also known to be problematic if you don't supply it with clean 5V

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FYI: You dont need LC filter with the HUBOSD

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It looks like the PDB on the frame has got a LC filter already, but the text is a little vague "Optional 12V regulator w/ built in LC filter is now available"

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I guess this is the 12V regulator they are talking about:
http://www.fpvmodel.com/mini-dc-dc-12v-v...g1045.html

Thank you guys for the valuable insights.

Konrad, you got it right, i did get from FPVmodel but it was from ebay. The arms comes with are 2mm so that is why i chose 1806 size motors. I was not aware of Racerstar Racing Edition 2205. But i will keep them in mind and have already include them in my list of upgrades in the future. But i need to upgrade the arms as well or i just have to drill bigger holes to the current ones. As for the batteries, reason i chose these are that i have 10 of them and all are brand new as i'm also flying 450 size heli. i do not want to get so many different types of battery for now. But with that said i can still use them right? With the 2200mah with 60c discharge rate. This is my first attempt for quad and i'm just trying out my luck in FPV. I'm not into racing with others, just flying around but with some speed. I have also ordered Aomway Mini 5.8Ghz 5.8G 200mW 32CH and TS832 32Ch 5.8G 600mw. Just want to see which once is the best for me. What do you think? I know i got extra so i could always fix it to my Savage X 4.6 nitro for the fun of it
As for the radio, as i said i also fly 450 size heli so i do not want to have too many radios around.

Oscar, i have been reading your blog and i have to tell you, Thank You. I have learn alot in your blog. I seen alot of videos from RCModels, Painless360, Project BlueFalcon and yours. very informative. Really appreciate.

Oyvinla, Thank you for the recommendation, I have added them to my upgrade list.

As long as there is room for the batteries it is no problem to use them since you already got them lying around, but Konrad has got a point

Yeah it will fly on those packs and since this is your first quad it will be hell of a ride Just don't invest in more 3s specifically for this model and when you decide to go 4s, remember to add 12v regulators or in case your FPV equipment accepts wide voltage, at least some filter/capacitor to clean power for FPV.

You can either invest in 2205 arms or drill bigger holes if you can align them properly. A lot of people have flown ZMR250 with drilled arms last year until frames with 3mm holess started to be more popular. Just keep in mind safety when cutting/drilling carbon fiber - avoid inhaling and wear hand and eye protection, best do it outside and use vacuum cleaner to suck dust out while you work.

(26-Aug-2016, 06:51 PM)Konrad Stepanajtys Wrote: Yeah it will fly on those packs and since this is your first quad it will be hell of a ride Just don't invest in more 3s specifically for this model and when you decide to go 4s, remember to add 12v regulators or in case your FPV equipment accepts wide voltage, at least some filter/capacitor to clean power for FPV.

You can either invest in 2205 arms or drill bigger holes if you can align them properly. A lot of people have flown ZMR250 with drilled arms last year until frames with 3mm holess started to be more popular. Just keep in mind safety when cutting/drilling carbon fiber - avoid inhaling and wear hand and eye protection, best do it outside and use vacuum cleaner to suck dust out while you work.

Can you point out what camera have wide voltage. I have been searching and could only find 5v or 12v.

http://www.surveilzone.com/DC5V-plastic-...ns-for-fpv

I heard some rumours that there will come a new version soon that will handle the voltage spikes from certain ESCs better than the current one. unfortunately, I can't remember where I read it

You were looking at this camera right? http://www.securitycamera2000.com/produc...u-BNC.html

Before I forget - pick something with 2.8 or 2.5 lens

That camera is also kind of old school stuff, quality is fine, but it's big - it won't fit most frames right now. You probably chosen it because of price and I see you will be able to use it elsewhere. But in case you are considering something else, look for runcam 600tvl  (either cased or normal) or foxeer 1177 - very good quality cameras . I see now they will accept 4s in theory, but power surges happen in our quads and they can kill this equipment. But  most VTXs have 5V out and you can use this to power your camera. Aomway 200mw is a good example (other members may suggest something else as this VTX is getting old too)

Few additions to what everybody has said:

1. Motors - the DYS BE1806 are not that powerful. They do a bit better on 4S, but ZMR with PDB will get heavy and the motors will struggle. If on a budget, try the RCX either 2350KV if you plan on flying 6" or the 2633KV for good 5" power.

These DYS motors will do better on a very light build without an HD. I have them on a super light tweaker and they fly fine.

2. While true that 200mw would be enough and recommended when flying with others, 600mw is about the same cost and will offer better penetration with trees and other obstacles.

3. Konrad is right about the camera too - get a HS1177 they are cheap and easy to find. The Foxeer HS1190 is also a good alternative, it has built in voltage and timer OSD

4. Antenna - invest in a good FatShark or if really on a budget these are not bad - https://amzn.com/B01J9N0GDO but anything with protective hood over the lobes. I also wrap some cloth tape all around it and have pretty much eliminated antenna issues during crashes.

Last thing I would say, as a first build, keep it simple. Don't worry about an LC filter, the ImmersionRC VTX has pretty clean power - use that for the camera. Skip the MinimOSD and sonar, get the bird in the air, make sure all flight essential parts work good, then accessorize. There are so many things that can go sidewise in a build, it is easier to not deal with them all at the same time

I'm coming across 2 different types of cameras. IR sensitive and IR Block.
Sorry for the stupid question but can i know what is the difference?

Ir block is generally good for daytime use and ir sensitive better for low light use, go for ir block

Thank you guys for your valuable advise.

Here is a video showing the difference in daytime flying. In general, the colors will look more "washed out" on the IR sensitive. A bit off topic but one thing I find quite interesting with that video is the difference in sharpness. Look at how much sharper the Foxeer image is compared to the Runcam. I got the opposite setup (Foxeer IR sensitive and Runcam IR block) and I find the Foxeer to give a sharper picture as well.