Posts: 3 Threads: 1 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 0 27-Mar-2016, 07:26 AM (This post was last modified: 27-Mar-2016, 07:51 AM by iamnew. Edit Reason: I had an idea! ) Hi IntoFpv. I am new to this quadcopter stuff and have purchased a Naze32 Rev6a from banggood. Link: http://m.banggood.com/DALRC-NAZE32-REV6-...20774.html I bought it without reading the reviews. (big mistake! I just saw the 4-5/5 stars and thought it would be good.) I see a lot of reviewers speaking of an issue, a diode is missing causing the board to power everything when plugged in via usb. The escs, motors, buzzer, receiver. My question is how will this missing diode issue affect my use of the board? I see some people mention that you can't calibrate the escs through cleanflight motors tab because of the missing diode. How can I calibrate them? Servo tester? I've also seen a few say that if you have the escs plugged in the board will get fried when powered by usb. This would be annoying because I plan to direct solder. So to sum it all up what problems will be caused by the missing diode? How can I work around/fix them? Sorry to post such a wordy question, I couldn't find the info I needed after half an hour of searching. EDIT: Could I work around it by: 1. soldering ground and signal of each esc to the board. 2. going through the calibration process. 3. soldering positive of each esc on to the board. ![[-]](https://intofpv.com/images/collapse.png) • Posts: 1,070 Threads: 70 Likes Received: 742 in 378 posts Likes Given: 577 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 44 27-Mar-2016, 05:59 PM (This post was last modified: 27-Mar-2016, 06:00 PM by KonradS.) I had a rev6 (first version with no diode), I didn't "callibrate" with throttle range. I just set throttle values in blheli on each ESC manually (1046-1998 if I remember correctly) with betaflight/blheli passtrough.
My rev6 powered the ESC's trough USB and I haven't fried anything, but I'm not saying it can't happen. Note that this only happens if You power Your FC with a crappy bec that lets 5v back-feed to the power line. A good PDB eliminates this problem.
Just be sure that You ALWAYS plug the board with props off.
Other problems? Don't really know. I have been flying on this board for maybe 2 months, had no mayor problems. • Posts: 3 Threads: 1 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 0 (27-Mar-2016, 05:59 PM)Konrad Stepanajtys Wrote: I had a rev6 (first version with no diode), I didn't "callibrate" with throttle range. I just set throttle values in blheli on each ESC manually (1046-1998 if I remember correctly) with betaflight/blheli passtrough.
My rev6 powered the ESC's trough USB and I haven't fried anything, but I'm not saying it can't happen. Note that this only happens if You power Your FC with a crappy bec that lets 5v back-feed to the power line. A good PDB eliminates this problem.
Just be sure that You ALWAYS plug the board with props off.
Other problems? Don't really know. I have been flying on this board for maybe 2 months, had no mayor problems. Hello, thanks for replying. I did a but more digging and it seems that the rev 6 has the missing diode issue and the rev 6a fixes it. If banggood really has sold me a 6a there should be no problems. I am going to use hobbyfan simonk 12a esc. I know they are no where near spectacular but they are what I have lying around from months ago. I guess I can't do the bleheli pass through thing you did with a simonk. Each esc has a linear 5v bec. Perhaps I could snip the positive bec lead off three esc and leave it on one. Then direct solder everything on. maybe add a pin for the bec + wire so I can remove it when needed for things such as calibration. Do you think that direct soldering the bec in one of these esc to the fc would cause the back feed issue? Thanks again for your help. • Posts: 5,315 Threads: 672 Likes Received: 3,155 in 1,743 posts Likes Given: 2,030 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 139 Yea just connect only one BEC to the FC, leave others unconnected you should be fine.
I did that on my builds when I started, works like a charm. • Posts: 1,070 Threads: 70 Likes Received: 742 in 378 posts Likes Given: 577 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 44 One user reported the his rev6a board shipped by banggood doesn't have this diode. Here's a link to rcgroups post with attached picture of rev6a, diode marked: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost....tcount=227 • Posts: 3 Threads: 1 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 0 14-Apr-2016, 10:27 AM (This post was last modified: 14-Apr-2016, 10:38 AM by iamnew.) (28-Mar-2016, 01:45 PM)Oscar Wrote: Yea just connect only one BEC to the FC, leave others unconnected you should be fine.
I did that on my builds when I started, works like a charm. Hi Oscar, I've only just seen your message. I finished my ZMR250 build a few weeks ago. It took a little extra effort to calibrate the escs and to snip the wire off three of the becs but for a otherwise fully functional Naze32 for only $15 Australian dollars it was worth it. Thanks!
(29-Mar-2016, 09:54 AM)Konrad Stepanajtys Wrote: One user reported the his rev6a board shipped by banggood doesn't have this diode. Here's a link to rcgroups post with attached picture of rev6a, diode marked: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost....tcount=227 I received mine a few weeks ago. It turned out to be the rev 6 not rev 6a. It's annoying that banggood is selling rev 6 as rev 6a but for $15 AUD I don't mind.
To anyone not sure if they should order this board or how to work around the missing diode: http://www.banggood.com/DALRC-NAZE32-REV...20774.html This Naze32 is a rev 6 not rev 6a. This means it has a missing diode which causes the board to output 5v when connected via usb. This means that if you have a bec connected to your pdb the Naze32 will try to power your escs when it is plugged into the usb. To work around this simply follow these steps, they will allow you to calibrate your esc. 1. Solder esc battery leads to pdb. 2. Solder/connect esc signal and ground leads to Naze32. DO NOT attach your bec yet. 3. Open cleanflight. Connect Naze32 by usb. 4.Go to motors tab. 5. Make sure props are removed and tick the little box in the bottom right corner. Slide master throttle to maximum. (Make sure you have set min and max throttle to what you would like before this.) 6. Plug lipo in to pdb. Wait 5 seconds, you should hear the escs making little songs. 7. After 5 seconds slide the master throttle down to zero as quickly as possible. The escs should all sing. Wait another 5 seconds and unplug lipo. 8. Done! all motors should now be synced. You can now solder your bec to your Naze32 and continue on with your build In conclusion the missig diode is slightly annoying but for just $15AUD it is not a big deal. I even bought another one for my next build! • Posts: 1 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jun 2016 Reputation: 0 (27-Mar-2016, 05:59 PM)Konrad Stepanajtys Wrote: I had a rev6 (first version with no diode), I didn't "callibrate" with throttle range. I just set throttle values in blheli on each ESC manually (1046-1998 if I remember correctly) with betaflight/blheli passtrough.
My rev6 powered the ESC's trough USB and I haven't fried anything, but I'm not saying it can't happen. Note that this only happens if You power Your FC with a crappy bec that lets 5v back-feed to the power line. A good PDB eliminates this problem.
Just be sure that You ALWAYS plug the board with props off.
Other problems? Don't really know. I have been flying on this board for maybe 2 months, had no mayor problems. Hi Konrad, I think I must have a crappy PDB. When I plugged the PDB in to the Naze board then plugged in the USB I saw the magic smoke come out of the Naze board  . If I keep the PDB unplugged then plug in the USB it still works sort of. My PDB is one of those CC3D PDB's, can you or anyone recommend a better one? Thanks! • Posts: 1,070 Threads: 70 Likes Received: 742 in 378 posts Likes Given: 577 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 44 You have some choices: Demon Core v2.3 RROSD (not tested personally, but had good reviews) Probably a lot more of good stuff I don't know about because I'm happy with my Core  tested it here: • Posts: 2 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jul 2016 Reputation: 0 I am also very Pi55ed 0ff that BangGood are allowed to lie like this. False Advertising?
I am using an Overcraft PDB with Opto escs, so this shouldn`t be a problem, right?
I only solder signal wire on, so there should be no power feedback, right? • Posts: 1,070 Threads: 70 Likes Received: 742 in 378 posts Likes Given: 577 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 44 Hard to tell - how do you power your FC? Best way actually is to just test it. • Posts: 328 Threads: 76 Likes Received: 191 in 85 posts Likes Given: 39 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 16 I tried using a diode, it worked. Problem was that I wasn't getting power to the FC from the PDB. I ended up removing the diode and placed a header pin on the +5v power supply to the FC. If I want to calibrate or program the esc, I just unplug the power from pdb to FC • Posts: 2 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jul 2016 Reputation: 0 (18-Jul-2016, 08:39 PM)Konrad Stepanajtys Wrote: Hard to tell - how do you power your FC? Best way actually is to just test it. The Overcraft PDB has a 5v regulator installed. When I plug in USB, only the Naze is powered. When I plug in my battery, the Naze board and Receiver and Vtx are powered using the 5V line. There is no problem having the USB and Battery connected at the same time. My ESCs are Opto, so I only have the signal wire connected. Yeah, just giving it a go is what scares me. So, if I plug in the USB to the Rev6 and ESC get powered, then I shouldn`t plug in battery, right? If the ESC are not powered, then should be OK, right? • Posts: 1,070 Threads: 70 Likes Received: 742 in 378 posts Likes Given: 577 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 44 19-Jul-2016, 08:28 PM (This post was last modified: 19-Jul-2016, 08:31 PM by KonradS.) Generally there shouldn't be any problem with plugging lipo in when USB is connected. I had this problem with callibration (throttle set to 2000us in motor tab, littlebees got initialized in my case from USB +5v) to the point when my ESCs went full throttle instantly after plugging the pack in. No hardware got burned. I was powering FC with additional old ESC I had laying around (BEC one with all three wires connected) - that is what I mean by a 'crappy BEC'. Most BECs actually shouldn't have this problem. If your onboard BEC 'stops' the voltage from backfeeding into main power line, you're good to go. Plug USB in and check for voltage on lipo connector. Note that some ESCs don't initialize on low voltage - for instance DYS XM20A don't do it even if you plug a fully charged 2s in. My XM20A initialization test here (first 3s, then 2s and 3s again): EDIT: ah, and this is on rev6 no-diode version on a simple diatone 5v PDB. • |
