Posts: 13 Threads: 2 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 2 Joined: Apr 2020 Reputation: 0 23-Apr-2020, 10:20 PM (This post was last modified: 27-Apr-2020, 07:17 AM by Brandonflys.) The oddest thing happened where I was able to fly, landed, went out later and all but one motor twitches when arming. No crashing or damage could have been done... Literally nothing changed besides time and location. ESC's all show up in BlHeli, flashed new firmware to them. Flashed new betaflight to FC, running proper Oneshot125 protocol in betaflight, recalibrated in motors tab. Problem persists in motor tab and arming. Waiting for soldering equipment to move around motors to determine motor vs esc problem, but hoping there is a simple fix with how randomly the problem popped up. Super new here and curious of this kinda thing has happened to someone, so any advice and tips are appreciated! • Posts: 12,098 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 If you want to continue using Oneshot, then I think your min_throttle is probably too low causing the twitch. Got to motor tab, on each motor individually run up the motor. See what is the lowest PWM required to get the motor spinning smoothly. Change min_throttle to that number. Otherwise, change to Dshot. It will likely cure your problem. • Posts: 13 Threads: 2 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 2 Joined: Apr 2020 Reputation: 0 29-Apr-2020, 03:17 AM (This post was last modified: 29-Apr-2020, 05:35 AM by Brandonflys.) Tried this and D shot as someone else had suggested but same problem. I took a video for a better idea of what the motors actually do when I powered them up under motors tab. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OZuRCdb...p=drivesdk I've reflashed every ESC and FC firmware version with the same issue, though after I switched around ESC firmware, the front left motor seemed to arm normally with the transmitter, but I don't think it's 100% because in the motor tab, it will still act funky when barely sliding up the bar, whereas the front left has been consistent and never twitches. I've switched the front left and back left motors, but the problem was still the same, so then I switched the ESCs also, and the problem followed the back left ESC to the front. I've calibrated and reflashed them many times after this, but same problem always. I haven't touched the left side yet with switching motors or ESCs, and this is how it currently behaves when armed. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O_zGGYT...p=drivesdk I never crashed it, so it just has to be it came with bad ESCs right? Idk what other diagnostics to run, and assuming I just need to buy a new set of ESCs and replace them all. Even if the one, or maybe two ESCs are working fine, the other place I found selling replacements for this ESC was banggood, and shipping is forever. They're also where I originally purchased the drone and hoping they'll do some sort of refund since I ordered a working wizard x220, not one I'd have to spend weeks troubleshooting. When I have to replace ESCs in the future, it will also be easier if I can reorder them domestically from somewhere like getfpv (I was looking at these https://www.getfpv.com/xilo-40a-blheli-s-2-4s-esc.html). If you've seen this problem of how it's behaving when armed or have any other ideas for a fix, awesome! Otherwise I'd love to know an ESC to buy for this drone that will be compatible and get me up in the air! • Posts: 12,098 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 Can you post the screen shot of blheli suite for the settings of all 4 ESCs? And your right motors do not seem to be motor 1 did spin in first video and motor 2 did not spin in the second video. Did you swap ESC or motor on the right side? Those ESCs you li ked should work. • Posts: 13 Threads: 2 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 2 Joined: Apr 2020 Reputation: 0 I'm sorry, I had mistyped... I meant to say I did not touch anything on the LEFT side, I did swap both motors and ESC on different occasions on the RIGHT side. Found the ESC as problem, that's why motor 2 works in first video, and motor 1 in second video. Referencing betaflights number assigning of the motors for better communication (starting in front right going clockwise, 2,1,3,4) I also wanted to note that the main ESC that appears to not be working, currently attached to motor 2, immediately gets super hot when I attach the battery. The others were not even warm. Maybe from my solder job? Let me know if there is other info needed not shown in these screenshots. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1...lK41EpzBpe • Posts: 12,098 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 Maybe next time, you can take the permission to share off for your files. • Posts: 13 Threads: 2 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 2 Joined: Apr 2020 Reputation: 0 Idk what's going on with drive, I uploaded and set it for anyone with link to view, but still got a request to view?? It might have been the folder sharing settings weren't right, but I fixed it now. So sorry about that! I'll make sure there isn't a problem accessing files from now on as soon as I post links. Appreciate your time! • Posts: 12,098 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 29-Apr-2020, 08:25 PM (This post was last modified: 29-Apr-2020, 08:26 PM by voodoo614.) I don't see anything wrong with your ESC settings. Hot ESC is not normal. That ESC is likely bad. Check continuity on the battery pads for the bad ESC. • Posts: 13 Threads: 2 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 2 Joined: Apr 2020 Reputation: 0 I have received the new Xilo ESCs to install, but want to make sure I connect it right. The stock ESC had one thinner white wire going to the main board, but the new one has a black and white. Do I need to attach both, or is it simply desoldering the black one? I am unsure of what the purpose of the black cylinder (3M1904) is (i.e. does it need to be removed to work with my quad being that the stock ESC did not have it). Here are photos to reference the wires in question. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LpRBR-z...p=drivesdk I feel that I am so close to getting this thing flying, but don't want to mess something up! • Posts: 12,098 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 05-May-2020, 02:11 AM (This post was last modified: 05-May-2020, 02:13 AM by voodoo614.) The white wire is the signal wire. You will need that to go to where the old white wire is. The thin black wire the signal ground wire. It is good practice to wire that up also for cleaner signal. You want to twist the black and white wire together. Don't confuse with connecting them together. If there is a signal ground, then you want to solder the black wire to that. If there is no signal ground on the FC, then you want to solder to the power ground along with the larger black wire. • |