PLA is harder than ABS but at the expense of being brittle. It's good for prints with small details. ABS is the work horse of filaments though it's not perfect. Nylon can be bitch to keep stuck to your bed. Check out Airwolf 3d's product (wolf bite I believe it's called...eeh you'll find it on there web site) it's supposed to improve nylon adhesion by 200%. Nothing sticks it nylon, and maybe it wouldn't matter for a micro quad but it's quite flexible. Polycarbonate I'm on the fence with. It's takes a lot more heat to extrude and with some parts it actually snapped where ABS will give a little. I need to go back and play with it some more. Alloy 910 from Taulmans seems to be my go to for strength. Twice the price of ABS, can be hard to find at times, and still not perfect. Ninjatek has two new products I've yet to test but they keep pushing it back. Considering how great Ninja and Simiflex are I'm excited to try them.

I'm still waiting for a Pololu regulator for my Cam/VTx to arrive, but in the meantime, I made a non-FPV version of the quad.

By placing the gimbal balls below the plate, it provides space and protection for a battery mounted on the bottom.  43.7g AUW this way.

  

It's a "convertible"  

I have been trying Polymaker Max with great result... It has similar characteristics to ABS, but prints just like PLA..

I will be using this filament in my micro frames which will be on sale next week hopefully

I've seen a guy connecting the vtx and cam directly onto the flight controller

(14-Apr-2016, 08:57 PM)matas Wrote: I've seen a guy connecting the vtx and cam directly onto the flight controller

Yeah, I've seen that video, but I've also read several recommendations against using those onboard 5V pins.  I decided to err on the side of caution (and add 0.4 grams).

cool, can you link the regulator, so i can put one on my build also?

(14-Apr-2016, 09:59 PM)matas Wrote: cool, can you link the regulator, so i can put one on my build also?

This is the one I got: https://www.pololu.com/product/2115

It's fixed 5V out.  Some people are getting the adjustable step-up regulator and setting it at 4V, but I think this is the lightest one.

(I got mine on amazon, more expensive but I have prime with free shipping and I got it in 2 days  - I was in a hurry and it just came today  )

I think you can get them other places as well - just search for "pololu step-up U3V12F5"

(10-Apr-2016, 10:07 AM)Oscar Wrote: I already bought the printer! It's an ultimaker 2+ hehe
I am a bit concerned about all the troubles with a DIY one so...
I think micro frame should at least be in the range of 6 to 8 grams?

hi Oscar, how's it going?  you could print out camera angle mounts as well, maybe  put in the into fpv logo  i would by one  if the price was right

Finished my micro quad this morning and flew it this afternoon.  Flies great!  I get a little over 5 minutes of gentle flying with a 410 mAh lipo.

   

43 grams without battery.

I've added "Version 3" files at thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1478859

Minor tweaks including clips to hold the Scisky more securely, and optional tabs for bottom-mounted battery.  (Also added ~2mm of space between plates.)  

   

All parts are interchangeable w/V2. 400mAh battery is about largest that can be mounted on top. (Other tweaks allowed the weight to stay the same.)

what software do you use for drawing?

(19-Apr-2016, 08:28 AM)matas Wrote: what software do you use for drawing?

This design was all done in OpenSCAD (free).  I've tried Sketchup and Inventor, but just too hard to learn (for me).

I sometimes use QCad (2D-design), then import the dxf's into OpenSCAD for extrusion and finishing.  (I should have done that on this design - it would have been easier.)

I have a computer programming background and the way OpenSCAD works fits my way of thinking - it's not a graphical interface for design; it's command oriented.

Example: to make a simple bushing (6mm tall, 8mm OD, 6mm ID), I type:

difference(){
  cylinder(h=6, r=8.0/2);
  translate([0,0,-0.5])
  cylinder(h=7, r=6.0/2);
}

Then I click a Render icon in the interface.
Not to scare anyone away.  Like I say, it fits the way I work - I love it!

you might want to try hexagons instead of round holes for the plate, as you nice mesh, and you minimize the material used... try it

(19-Apr-2016, 09:40 PM)matas Wrote: you might want to try hexagons instead of round holes for the plate, as you nice mesh, and you minimize the material used... try it

I actually thought about a hexagonal mesh for the FC and VTx compartments, but it would be tedious to program with OpenSCAD.  However, I might be able to trick my slicer into doing it - I might try a little experiment and see if that's possible.

(19-Apr-2016, 09:40 PM)matas Wrote: you might want to try hexagons instead of round holes for the plate, as you nice mesh, and you minimize the material used... try it

Is something like this what you had in mind?



I removed the lightening holes to end up with a solid plate on the bottom:



Then in my print program, I made slicer settings for 30% honeycomb infill, 0 layers top infill, 0 layers bottom infill, and 4 vertical perimeters (at 0.4mm nozzle, that took care of all the rest) - thus "tricking" my printer into printing the nice honeycomb pattern you see.

20% might have been better, but this was just a test.