Posts: 2,416 Threads: 51 Likes Received: 1,861 in 1,175 posts Likes Given: 3,315 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 74 I just posted a 100mm FPV spider quad frame on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1478859 ![[Image: 5UjrpCGl.png]](http://i.imgur.com/5UjrpCGl.png) My Banggood parts won't be here until Monday. Once I'm into the build, I may update the design a bit. Here's what I designed around: Micro Scisky 32bit brushed FC from Banggood
8.5x20mm motors from Banggood
600TVL 1/4 Micro CMOS camera from Banggood
FX758-2 5.8G 200mW VTx from Banggood
8.5X13mm rubber gimbal balls from Amazon (gouduoduo2018) I'll probably post a build thread soon... 
![[-]](https://intofpv.com/images/collapse.png) • Posts: 5,315 Threads: 672 Likes Received: 3,155 in 1,743 posts Likes Given: 2,030 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 139 very nice! looks a bit heavy though... funny I am designing my own micro frame too I am planning selling it to fund my 3D printer haha so cannot share with you my files... yet! • Posts: 2,416 Threads: 51 Likes Received: 1,861 in 1,175 posts Likes Given: 3,315 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 74 (10-Apr-2016, 02:01 AM)Oscar Wrote: very nice! looks a bit heavy though...
funny I am designing my own micro frame too
I am planning selling it to fund my 3D printer haha so cannot share with you my files... yet! That brings up a good question - what's a good target weight (AUW) for a micro using 8.5x20 brushed motors w/2" props? I know lighter is better, but when do you start to run into trouble? When you get ready for the printer, check out Nicholas Seward's CoreXZ . (His idea inspired my own QuorXZ ) You should be able to build one with heated bed for around $400. Can't wait to see what you come up with (frame and printer)! That's the nice thing about having a printer - I can try several iterations of this design and come up with the best strength/weight/curb-appeal  • Posts: 5,315 Threads: 672 Likes Received: 3,155 in 1,743 posts Likes Given: 2,030 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 139 I already bought the printer! It's an ultimaker 2+ hehe
I am a bit concerned about all the troubles with a DIY one so...
I think micro frame should at least be in the range of 6 to 8 grams? • Posts: 2,416 Threads: 51 Likes Received: 1,861 in 1,175 posts Likes Given: 3,315 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 74 10-Apr-2016, 10:17 AM (This post was last modified: 10-Apr-2016, 10:19 AM by sloscotty.) (10-Apr-2016, 10:07 AM)Oscar Wrote: I already bought the printer! It's an ultimaker 2+ hehe
I am a bit concerned about all the troubles with a DIY one so...
I think micro frame should at least be in the range of 6 to 8 grams? Ohh - that's a nice printer!! Can't wait to buy your frame....  EDIT: Also can't wait to see the build/review thread on your new printer! • Posts: 918 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 533 in 271 posts Likes Given: 498 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 30 I printed off a 180 sized quad in a few stages, took ages to print all the bits. put all the electronics on it, test flew fine. went for a good FPV flight and second battery it actually blew apart in flight, now granted doing rolls and flips with it was perhaps not the greatest thing to do and on 4S. lol
But, it did fly. • Posts: 2,416 Threads: 51 Likes Received: 1,861 in 1,175 posts Likes Given: 3,315 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 74 12-Apr-2016, 01:57 PM (This post was last modified: 12-Apr-2016, 01:58 PM by sloscotty.) My Banggood order arrived yesterday and nothing fit my design! (That's the bad thing about designing from published dimensions  ) Anyway, I've replaced the files on thingiverse. I reprinted the frame and it's a little lighter now (10.6g including damper balls), and everything fits! ![[Image: H7Zn7Rol.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/H7Zn7Rol.jpg) Sorry if anybody wasted filament..... • Posts: 5,315 Threads: 672 Likes Received: 3,155 in 1,743 posts Likes Given: 2,030 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 139 I really think the dampers are unnecessary the vibration can hardly be noticed in FpV, and double sided tape can eliminate noise for FC.. • Posts: 2,416 Threads: 51 Likes Received: 1,861 in 1,175 posts Likes Given: 3,315 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 74 (12-Apr-2016, 02:25 PM)Oscar Wrote: I really think the dampers are unnecessary the vibration can hardly be noticed in FpV, and double sided tape can eliminate noise for FC.. AND they add 2 grams of weight, not counting the extra plastic to mount them. I'll try a stab at another design after this build. I'm committed for now....  Printed anything with your new Ultimaker yet? • Posts: 5,315 Threads: 672 Likes Received: 3,155 in 1,743 posts Likes Given: 2,030 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 139 (12-Apr-2016, 02:34 PM)sloscotty Wrote: AND they add 2 grams of weight, not counting the extra plastic to mount them. I'll try a stab at another design after this build. I'm committed for now....
Printed anything with your new Ultimaker yet? I have been printing lots of micro prototypes with it.. But the PLA that comes with it is too easy to break I am currently experimenting new filament ... Almost there now with the design • Posts: 391 Threads: 23 Likes Received: 50 in 41 posts Likes Given: 56 Joined: Feb 2016 Reputation: 8 (12-Apr-2016, 03:18 PM)Oscar Wrote: I have been printing lots of micro prototypes with it.. But the PLA that comes with it is too easy to break I am currently experimenting new filament ...
Almost there now with the design Is PLA not suitable for quadcopter frames then? I'm currently using PLA from Rigid Ink. Current quad: ZMR 250 / DYS SE2205 / Littlebee 20A ESCs / Drone Lab 1500 4S / Naze32 Rev5 / BF 2.7.1 FPV: Runcam Skyplus / Aomway 200mw VTX / Fatshark DomV1 >>>>>>>>>> Check Out My Build<<<<<<<<<< • Posts: 2,416 Threads: 51 Likes Received: 1,861 in 1,175 posts Likes Given: 3,315 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 74 (12-Apr-2016, 04:09 PM)HamsterFPV Wrote: Is PLA not suitable for quadcopter frames then? I'm currently using PLA from Rigid Ink. Not sure what Oscar is experimenting with, but since I installed a heated bed on my printer, I've been printing with ABS. ABS is not brittle like PLA. I've yet to try nylon, but I hope to soon. • Posts: 2,416 Threads: 51 Likes Received: 1,861 in 1,175 posts Likes Given: 3,315 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 74 Just FYI: For all of you 3D "printers" out there, Tom Sanladerer is the "Oscar" of 3D printing (if you know what I mean ). It's difficult to Google anything about 3D printing without landing on one of his Videos.... Good stuff! • Posts: 391 Threads: 23 Likes Received: 50 in 41 posts Likes Given: 56 Joined: Feb 2016 Reputation: 8 (12-Apr-2016, 04:42 PM)sloscotty Wrote: Not sure what Oscar is experimenting with, but since I installed a heated bed on my printer, I've been printing with ABS. ABS is not brittle like PLA. I've yet to try nylon, but I hope to soon. I've always had a heated bed in mine but I've never tried printing with ABS, something to look into. Do you have any problems with warping? Current quad: ZMR 250 / DYS SE2205 / Littlebee 20A ESCs / Drone Lab 1500 4S / Naze32 Rev5 / BF 2.7.1 FPV: Runcam Skyplus / Aomway 200mw VTX / Fatshark DomV1 >>>>>>>>>> Check Out My Build<<<<<<<<<< • Posts: 2,416 Threads: 51 Likes Received: 1,861 in 1,175 posts Likes Given: 3,315 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 74 12-Apr-2016, 10:36 PM (This post was last modified: 12-Apr-2016, 10:41 PM by sloscotty.) (12-Apr-2016, 10:06 PM)HamsterFPV Wrote: I've always had a heated bed in mine but I've never tried printing with ABS, something to look into. Do you have any problems with warping? No, I don't get warping. I have a glass plate (absolutely flat) on an aluminum heated bed. I use glue stick on the glass and my brim doesn't even warp. (I probably don't need to use such a large brim, but I always worry that flat objects (like the quad) will warp - but they don't.) ![[Image: 1cdwqVVl.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/1cdwqVVl.jpg) [The white stuff under the glass is silicone heat transfer paste to make sure I don't loose heat between the bed and the glass.] I set my bed at 110C and my extruder at 230C for ABS. Edit: Another nice thing about ABS is you can use acetone to weld parts together. • |
