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Matek PDB or Naze32 Rev 6
#1
I think i have an electrical issue on my Naze32 Rev 6 board. when I try and calibrate my motors, i cannot get the beeps that are supposed to come up to calibrate my motors
I plug in my USB cable, go to the motors Tab, and max them out, and plug up the battery but I dont get the beeps that are supposed to come up for calibration afterwards.
 
I have tried unplugged my 5V power servo lead that goes to the Flight Controller from the PDB.  I try it again, USB is in, and then attach the battery, and it works fine. beeps work but only when the servo lead is not connected, and I know it is supposed to be. From what I understood, a 5V supply is supposed to be attached to the FC for Naze32 from the PDB
but when i plug it all up together, put the servo 5V lead back to the FC, and try it again I cannot I cant get the beeps to sound
 
could it be possible that the 5 volts from the usb cable and 11.1 volts from the battery are too much together and somehow shorting or adding voltage which is not allowing me to setup the calibration correctly?

Is there even supposed to be 5V coming from the USB cable?


 
VDQ V2 [Image: REtbbhUl.jpg][Image: vVCNFLHl.jpg]
Matek  Pdb 3.1
Naze32 Rev 6
Little Bee ESC 20AMP
Cobra 2204/2300
Taranis Plus
Tattuu 3S 1300mah
5" Triblade Props
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#2
You have first revision of rev6 board which had no diode on 5v rail. That means that 5V from USB (which is supposed to be there Smile ) is passed to other components as well - including ESCs. I know that 5V is enough to initialize the littlebees, so they start receiving signal before You plug the battery in so they can't be callibrated this way.

Soldering a shottky diode or unplugging PDB -> FC 5v wire is the way to "solve" this issue.

Nice clean build BTW.
Find me on Youtube and Instagram. I currently fly: DRC Aura, NOX5R, Minimalist 112 and drive a scrap RC car
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#3
(15-Jun-2016, 12:06 PM)Konrad Stepanajtys Wrote: You have first revision of rev6 board which had no diode on 5v rail. That means that 5V from USB (which is supposed to be there Smile ) is passed to other components as well - including ESCs. I know that 5V is enough to initialize the littlebees, so they start receiving signal before You plug the battery in so they can't be callibrated this way.

Soldering a shottky diode or unplugging PDB -> FC 5v wire is the way to "solve" this issue.

Nice clean build BTW.

so how about instead of adding a shottky diode, how about i just replace the board with a Rev 6A, wouldnt that be easier or will i still have to add the diode?

[Image: Lqm0UQql.jpg]
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#4
maybe you can try calibrate with your transmitter with props off?
Don't be a LOS'er, be an FPV'er :)  My Gear - Facebook - Instagram - Twitter
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#5
or you can unplug all the signal leads that go into your esc from the FC, then set your max throttle on the motors tab, plug in the battery, plug the esc's back in one at a time and then slid the throttle down to the min
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#6
i really want to hear the calibration beeps to let me know that I am doing it correctly. This is my first quad, and i just want to follow the steps, at least this one for the first time. Later on once i understand more of it and really get into building them, then i can get into upgrading and using nicer equipment, and more issues

so as of now, couldnt I just take the old board out, and put in a newer REV 6 a, b, or C and move on to the next step after calibration please?/?/?
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#7
(15-Jun-2016, 09:01 PM)Malito77 Wrote: i really want to hear the calibration beeps to let me know that I am doing it correctly. This is my first quad, and i just want to follow the steps, at least this one for the first time. Later on once i understand more of it and really get into building them, then i can get into upgrading and using nicer equipment, and more issues

so as of now, couldnt I just take the old board out, and put in a newer REV 6 a, b, or C and move on to the next step after calibration please?/?/?

yes you most definitely can. as a matter of fact, that would probably be the easiest way.
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#8
(15-Jun-2016, 12:54 PM)Malito77 Wrote: so how about instead of adding a shottky diode, how about i just replace the board with a Rev 6A, wouldnt that be easier or will i still have to add the diode?

If that's not a problem for You, go for it. Look out for those cloned boards - they are often marketed as rev6a but have no diodes. Actually if You change FC, You may as well go for a F3 board. They are almost the same price nowadays...
Find me on Youtube and Instagram. I currently fly: DRC Aura, NOX5R, Minimalist 112 and drive a scrap RC car
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