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Making a 210, Need Help!
#16
(18-Aug-2016, 02:51 PM)Luc Wrote: Personally I would go with this one: 

Realacc HUBOSD

I just build a 210 quad with this PDB and I really like the layout.  It makes your build a whole lot easier.

On my other quad I have a RROSD and there are two things I don't like:
1. The placement of the ESC pads
2. The small font size on the display

Nice find.  I am going to give one a try in my next build.  The price is right - I just hope it performs well.  I'll report on the experience later...just ordered.
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#17
I would avoid Naze32 rev6... in fact get a F3 FC, the price difference is so little now can't justify to buy new F1 FC.
Don't be a LOS'er, be an FPV'er :)  My Gear - Facebook - Instagram - Twitter
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#18
(18-Aug-2016, 09:53 PM)Oscar Wrote: I would avoid Naze32 rev6... in fact get a F3 FC, the price difference is so little now can't justify to buy new F1 FC.

Whats wrong with the Naze 32?

(18-Aug-2016, 02:51 PM)Luc Wrote: Personally I would go with this one: 

Realacc HUBOSD

I just build a 210 quad with this PDB and I really like the layout.  It makes your build a whole lot easier.

On my other quad I have a RROSD and there are two things I don't like:
1. The placement of the ESC pads
2. The small font size on the display

That seems like a pretty good one, does it perform well?
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#19
(18-Aug-2016, 10:45 PM)Savage FPV Wrote: Whats wrong with the Naze 32?

search "Rev6 gyro" and you will find a lot of horror stories. here is one example: http://intofpv.com/t-new-betaflight-2khz...=rev6+gyro

Naze32 is just old, with same amount of money you can get something perform better, why not? Smile
Don't be a LOS'er, be an FPV'er :)  My Gear - Facebook - Instagram - Twitter
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  • BigglesFPV
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#20
(18-Aug-2016, 10:55 PM)Oscar Wrote: search "Rev6 gyro" and you will find a lot of horror stories. here is one example: http://intofpv.com/t-new-betaflight-2khz...=rev6+gyro

Naze32 is just old, with same amount of money you can get something perform better, why not? Smile

Which one would be the best opition?
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#21
Xracer F303 , SP3 racing, Cyclone, pretty much all of the F3 boards are good. 90% of my quads run Xracer F303's of all versions.
My youtube channel

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#22
XRacer is good but I sometimes see random problems being reported, and there seems to be always some little problems on each new boards and they had to fix them in little revisions (thus you see V1, V1.1, V2, V2.2, V3, V3.1 etc...)

Also check out Furious Kombini F3, it's got PDB integrated with SPI MPU6000 which is a recommend sensor at the moment. I am building a new quad with this FC and the wiring is really clean.
Don't be a LOS'er, be an FPV'er :)  My Gear - Facebook - Instagram - Twitter
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#23
I'm going to be doing tricks and races, I want a basic OSD. Which is the best flight controller and PDB? Thank you, sorry if I'm being a pain. It's a birthday present, I just want to get it correct. EDIT: Will the SP3 racing FC work well with the Realacc HUBOSD PDB? (I believe that has an OSD). For the ESC's, should I use BLHeli or Simonk?
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#24
(19-Aug-2016, 01:55 AM)Savage FPV Wrote: I'm going to be doing tricks and races, I want a basic OSD. Which is the best flight controller and PDB? Thank you, sorry if I'm being a pain. It's a birthday present, I just want to get it correct. EDIT: Will the SP3 racing FC work well with the Realacc HUBOSD PDB? (I believe that has an OSD). For the ESC's, should I use BLHeli or Simonk?

As far as I know, the hubosd is a standalone osd so it doesn't matter what fc you use. I got an spracing f3 clone from Banggood and I don't have any complaints about it except maybe that it uses the mpu6500 gyro and not mpu6000 which has less gyro noise. I haven't been much bothered with it though.

I don't know much about simonk, but I believe that it is said to be not as good as blheli. You should also check out the racerstar escs with blheliS on Banggood.com. They are quite good!
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#25
(19-Aug-2016, 06:51 AM)oyvinla Wrote: As far as I know, the hubosd is a standalone osd so it doesn't matter what fc you use. I got an spracing f3 clone from Banggood and I don't have any complaints about it except maybe that it uses the mpu6500 gyro and not mpu6000 which has less gyro noise. I haven't been much bothered with it though.

I don't know much about simonk, but I believe that it is said to be not as good as blheli. You should also check out the racerstar escs with blheliS on Banggood.com. They are quite good!

I think I'm going to use the Realacc HUBOSD ECO H ( http://www.banggood.com/Realacc-HUBOSD-E...01201408U4 ) as my PDB, The SP Racing F3 as my FC ( http://www.getfpv.com/sp-racing-f3-fligh...-acro.html ) These are the motors I'm using
http://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-rx2206-11...motor.html ). I need esc's that will work with them. I'm not good at this at all and I don't know what to pick. The racerstar escs u told me to get have a peak current of 25a but the motors have a peak current of 32a, I don't 100% know what that means but it doesn't really sound right to me.
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#26
(19-Aug-2016, 07:51 AM)Savage FPV Wrote: I think I'm going to use the Realacc HUBOSD ECO H ( http://www.banggood.com/Realacc-HUBOSD-E...01201408U4 ) as my PDB, The SP Racing F3 as my FC ( http://www.getfpv.com/sp-racing-f3-fligh...-acro.html ) These are the motors I'm using
http://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-rx2206-11...motor.html ). I need esc's that will work with them. I'm not good at this at all and I don't know what to pick. The racerstar escs u told me to get have a peak current of 25a but the motors have a peak current of 32a, I don't 100% know what that means but it doesn't really sound right to me.


It is good to be carfeul, and get your mind at rest.

Your motors will be fine with 20 Amp ESC's, but if you just want a little extra piece of mind get the Aikon 30amp Blheli S esc's.

You have to remember that bench tests are much different to real world flying, and as is often the case the bench tests confuse upcoming pilots in this hobby. Heck, they still confuse me..lol

But, seeing as I do not fly a test bench the only real results I am interested in are in my world of flying.

Ask yourself.

How often do you truly believe you will be at full throttle, 10% of the time, 20%, 30%..


I have runs where I may be at full throttle for perhaps 10 seconds max (does not sound much, but can really cover some ground in 10 seconds) and even then running 2205-2633 KV motors I am only pulling 84 Amps (according to my OSD), which divided by 4 is 21 amps per esc/motor, which is well within the range of operation for both esc and motor.


Your choice of props will also be a factor as to how amps you draw, but pretty much the 20 amp esc's are more than enough.

I, by choice, not because I need to, will run 30 amp esc's if the frame allows it, given they are not much bigger than 20 amp ones nor really cost that much.

Whichever ESC you plan to go with, I would stay with BLheli firmware  (for now..until something better comes along).


and no matter how well you plan beforehand, things can and will go wrong, faulty esc or motor right from the get go.

And if you have not yet seen one, Get a Smoke stopper to use while building and testing parts, can save you a lot of magic smoke grief.

http://intofpv.com/t-how-to-make-a-smoke...83#pid3683
My youtube channel

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#27
Max burst current - think on what prop that was tested. Look for some thrust tests on youtube etc. most guys are flying littlebee 20A ESCs and they hold up good amount of abuse. But now 30A ESCs are almost as small and light as 20A ones. Look for Racerstar 30A v2 ESC, these will give you some headroom if you decide to go for heavier props.

25A peak current is what manufacturer considers safe in a 10s burst. But really most ESCs are able to withstand even 100A peak current for a split second ie when starting motors or during rapid throttle changes with active braking on. Current is not what kills them - it's heat if you push them to the max too long. Also remember that in air you unload about 30% less current than on the bench.
Find me on Youtube and Instagram. I currently fly: DRC Aura, NOX5R, Minimalist 112 and drive a scrap RC car
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#28
Whole setup so far (long list)

Frame: QAV210 CHARPU Carbon Fiber  Motors: Lumenier RX2206-11 2350Kv  Flight Controller: SP Racing F3 Flight Controller  PDB: Realacc HUBOSD ECO H  ESC's: Aikon SEFM 30A ESC 
Camera: Lumenier CM-650 Mini  Transmitter: Lumenier TX5G6 Mini 600mW 5.8GHz  Goggles: Fat Shark Dominator HD V2  Antenna On Goggles: IBCrazy 5.8 GHz Mad Mushroom Antenna  Antenna on Drone: TBS Triumph 5.8GHz  Receiver: LaForge V2 Fat Shark  Battery for Goggles: Fatshark 7.4v 1800mAh  Battery for Drone: Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 4S 45~90C Lipo Pack  Props: HQProp 5x4x3R  Radio: FrSky Taranis X9D

Not sure if it all works with each other, I might have missed some stuff.
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#29
Looks good.

Just make sure your Antenna connectors match your VTX and goggles. IE: SMA to SMA, RPSMA to RPSMA, and Antenna are both either RHCP or both LHCP.

I do not see a RX in there, unless it is part of your Radio kit.
My youtube channel

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#30
What Biggles mention about the antennas are quite important to take into consideration, because you can accidentally fit an RP-SMA antenna on a SMA vtx, but it will not work very well, and chances are that you will ruin your vtx. The reason why I say it is because I have seen people do it
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