I’m hoping to see a number of build threads with this frame from others who also got one during the $1.95 TBS blowout sale, so I’ve tried to differentiate mine in the thread title.
At the moment, these frames are still available for $1.95 here:
https://www.team-blacksheep.com/products...t_sb5_race

Frame: TBS Stardust SB5 Race Edition
FC: Holybro Kakute F7
ESC: Holybro Tekko32 F3 Metal
Motors: iFlight Cyber Xing 2207.5 2555kv
Props: Azure Power 5050 bi-blades (TBS has these on blowout for $0.45)
Receiver: Happymodel EP1
Camera: Caddx... something. 19x19.
VTX: TCMM XF5804 5.8ghz 30x30... I dunno, SmartAudio 600mw max vtx.
VTX Antenna: TrueRC Blaze 5.8ghz
Batteries: CNHL Black 4s 1550mah, and maybe 4s 850mah for shorter flights.
And whatever random led racewires that are currently connected to these motors.

Components were chosen because… they’re what I had on my shelf.


The Holybro stack is the one I won during intoFPV’s first trivia night.
I’ve been wanting to try it out, but I usually build smaller birds that a 30x30 stack wouldn’t fit in. I think it’ll be perfect for this frame.

Some of these Tekko32 4in1 esc’s have continuity between the mounting holes and the closest motor pad for some weird reason. This is one of them, so I’ll be mounting the esc on nylon standoffs, with rubber vibration isolation standoffs between it and the FC.

I won’t be doing my usual conformal coating on this build, because this is not a bird I’ll ever be flying in inclement weather.

This frame is hand moulded. There was some debate about what “hand moulding” meant, and whether or not it just meant “forged” carbon fiber (chopped up carbon fiber compressed into shape).
It’s not forged carbon fiber. You can see from the pics below that it is using long strands of carbon fiber running lengthwise along the arms:



Motors and esc are mounted. Usually I do all soldering off of the frame, but, this bugger is big enough for me to solder on frame.
I was multiple drinks deep when I soldered this, so I’ll definitely need to double-check the quality of my work.


I haven’t decided on the vtx yet. I have at least one random 30x30 vtx. It may get a TBS Unify Pro HV. It might end up with something small like a HM ovx300. I’m not sure how much room I’ll have in the stack yet.

I also haven’t decided on the cam. I’ve got a bunch of nano size cams and a few mini size cams. This thing needs a micro size. I’ll have to dig around and see if I have one, if not, it’ll end up with a nano size cam in a adapter.

Edit- updated final build bits- cam, vtx, antenna.

LemonyLeprosy Wrote:Props: Azure Power 5050 bi-blades (TBS has these on blowout for $0.45)

They had quite a few things on blowout that I would've bought, had I lived over your side.  The PDB's, props (especially the 4 blade whoop props at 5 cents a pack, I would have had 10-20 packs of those), 2207 Ethix motors at $8 each, to name some of them.

Your build looks sweet so far.  Looking forward to the rest of it.

mine doesnt offer that much surface difference :-)
every frame looks unique :-)

nice! beautyfull fets on that esc :-)

I’m making real slow progress on this bird. I’m taking my sweet time- because I’m a little afraid to fly this thing.

Anyhow. One of my motors had a stripped screw. I wouldn’t typically care, but, this frame only has 3x screw holes per motor, and I’m using some heavy duty motors. I’ve got two spares, so I’m just gonna replace the motor that has a stripped screw. I’ve got no reason not to. I’m running racewire on this thing- the whole point of that (other than the shiny leds) is to be able to do a quick motor change.

I looked over my drunken soldering job- all is good, because I’ve got skills, yo.

I did go back over a few joints to reposition them. I wanted my main power wires to come towards the left so that I can strap them to the rear left arm for strain relief, and I wanted my capacitor wires to come off towards the rear right so that I can strap my cap to the rear right arm.



There was a couple motor pad wires that I wanted to run at a different angle, so I resoldered those as well.

I thought that the copper running up the middle was a ground bus bar- I was actually pretty excited about that, because that’s something that I add to my diy audio equipment. NO! That bugger is a positive rail.
Cool, but sketchy- I tossed some kapton tape over it because I’m not looking to short something out.
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Those nice long arm leds. Which ones are those, they are single colored or they will stardust glitter ?

its realy needed to care about a short over carbon, as there is no coating at all on the carbon.

16leds thats the requirementa of the local racing league :-) you are raedy for a competition :-)

I don’t see it going well for me if I tried to race a 5”. I’d end up pulling a ph2t and taking out a car window.

I’ll definitely keep an eye out for shorts to carbon.

I have absolutely no idea what color these led racewires are. I mean, I could look and see what solder pads I’d previously jumped and figure it out, but I think I’ll just let it be a fun surprise when I go to check my motor direction.

i destroyed a lamp in ph so far, there would be cars needed on the track for crashing a window ;-) parhouses are pretty empty sometimes, choose wise :-)
pretty sure the stardust would survive, fast enough you might be able to come out of the opposide window of the car xD

to start racing, a 5inch is easy compared to whoops or nimble micros. 5inches have some spare torq pretty everywhere, it changes when the battery doesnt matches the requested power well anymore, but thats very fast. 5inches has some momemtum, they are more forgiving than a whoop about flight line and needes presicion. dont mind 5inch as more difficult for racing.
you might own many micros, not as powerfull about power to weight, but very nimble and unforgiving therefor...
i bet you will feel comfortable to fly your carport on adjusted motoroutput with the stardust :-)

I hope I’ll feel comfortable flying it here. I might start it out on 3s, maybe still with a motor limit.

Just take it to an open space in the suburbs then connect up a 6S LiPo and send it 

I only fly at home, but I just might have to wander out into the world to find a place where I can properly open this thing up.

Cool build so far!

I just got my frame(s). I ordered 3 to justify the shipping cost and not worry about crashing it (need more bangers in my fleet). Also got some blowout 5" props. Pretty excited to start my own build....

The 3 hole motor mounts are weird! I wondered if that is why they were discounted? Manufacturing mistake? The photos online all show a 4th hole.... I am left wondering if I should drill another hole?

three hole settup is a result of frame progress, while the motorholes can be the waek point - they shouldnt be...
a well thought framegeometry should break on the arms. 3 holes offer the few mm more carbon to move any weak point from the motor position.
its not a mistale for sure ;-)

mine has 4 motorholes, i doesnt care about... but if i could choose, i would pick the 3hole version. i would appriciate a 3 motorhole version with a 1-2mm less carbon where there is a round part made for that particular motorhole which isnt there.

That’s exciting! Please start a build thread.
What are you considering for motors and electronics?

I’ve got a number of frames that only have 2 or 3 motor screw holes. Granted, those frames all use much smaller motors.

Still, I think they’ll be secure with 3 screws.

Hugnosed, does your stardust have 3 motor screw holes or 4?

Edit- Hugnosed answered while I was typing up the question.

two screws well tightened and checked frequently does work too :-) its all about carefull or careless, 4 screws does let you survive carless; just replace one and tighten up the others if there is one missing... but it doesnt need to happen, so im looking for that route on less than 4 screws