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Is the Eachine Wizard x220 a good drone?
#1
(BASICALLY, I WANT YOUR GUYS' OPINION ON THIS)

I'm trying to get into FPV and it has taken me almost a month to get around and understand slightly how all of this works. Now that I feel "experienced" (by that I mean I just kind of know what people are talking about when I see it) I want to get a drone myself. I am no expert at building anything. I think that the best route for a beginner like me is to buy a RTF drone or at least a ARF drone.

For now I've taken into consideration the Eachine Wizard x220 drone, I've seen more reviews than anyone ever should about it and I'm pretty confident that it would be a good choice for me. However, I'd like to ask more experienced people about this topic. I've heard that it's camera isn't the best and an upgrade is recommended. 

(I also thought of getting the QAV-R by Lumenier which is also RTF, tell me if this could be a viable option please)

For now this is the set up that I'm planning on buying:
-Eachine Wizard x220 (ARF)
-Kylin/JJPro Vision Goggles
-FlySky FS-i6 Controller

    Still not sure about the batteries
-One 3S 1300mAh or 1500mAh baterry
-Three 4S 1300mAh or 1500mAh baterries
(I'll be using this website to find the batteries I want/need: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/lipo.html?ca...fig=53,54&)

Another thing that really pushed me to consider buying this kit is the fact that there is a video on Youtube by UAVFutures in which he explains in detail every step needed to get the drone up and going. (video below)



I've been thinking of getting different antennas, different goggles, a different camera, etc. but I don't know how to know if the parts that are interesting me would be compatible with the rest of the build.

I'm open to any recommendations/opinions regarding this build!

(In case anyone wonders, I can push up by budget up to ~500-600 dollars if anyone wants to recommend a better kit)
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#2
as you will be buying new stuff,
i'd switch the radio from Fsi6 (i use it) to i6x (new version) link http://www.banggood.com/Flysky-FS-i6X-2_...90406.html
if you have the $ go for http://www.banggood.com/Diatone-Crusader...95494.html

as for the goggles, you can lookup something that has diversity build-ed in (look for 2 antennas)
All the best
Grzesiek (Grisha/ Greg)

Curently flyable: Nox 5, Minimalist 112
Bench / in progres: fixing Nox 3,  Scrap
thinking about building: 450


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#3
I am by no means an expert at this but in my opinion i wouldn't go for a RTF or ARF quad. My reasoning behind this is if you take of for your first flight crash and rip apart the quad you will have no idea about putting in back together. if you build it in the first place you will already be partially familiar with getting it back together.

I think that building the quads is also part of the fun but if you really don't want to have to build a quad the Wizard could be a good starting point.

I also wouldn't bother with getting the 3 cell batteries go straight onto 4 cell Smile

That's just my take on this but im sure other people may disagree with me lol
lol FPV
Ragg-e WBX 5"
BUILD
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[-] The following 1 user Likes lolFPV's post:
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#4
Skip the 3s batteries imo. I got to many I don't use. Used them for about a month when I started. If you are concerned about too much power, you can just reduce max throttle in cleanflight/betaflight
[-] The following 2 users Like oyvinla's post:
  • Drone0fPrey, lolFPV
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#5
(21-Dec-2016, 01:39 PM)Grisha0 Wrote: as you will be buying new stuff,
i'd switch the radio from Fsi6 (i use it) to i6x (new version) link http://www.banggood.com/Flysky-FS-i6X-2_...90406.html
if you have the $ go for http://www.banggood.com/Diatone-Crusader...95494.html

as for the goggles, you can lookup something that has diversity build-ed in (look for 2 antennas)

Thanks for the recommendation! This seems like a very good option to take! If it's newer it must be better right? Hahhah. 

I was watching a video/review on the new controller that you are recommending and noticed that the receiver is very different, do you know of a tutorial video on how to connect the receiver to the drone and how to bind the receiver to the controller? (If you can guide me through it right there it'd be even better!)

Also, I think I'm gonna stick with the Wizard x220, but thanks for taking the time to give me your opinion! Anything helps!

(I think that when I have the drone in my hands I'd be able to connect the receiver and everything properly, but I'd much rather know what I should be expecting/what I should do to get it up and flying)
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#6
(21-Dec-2016, 01:42 PM)lolFPV Wrote: I am by no means an expert at this but in my opinion i wouldn't go for a RTF or ARF quad. My reasoning behind this is if you take of for your first flight crash and rip apart the quad you will have no idea about putting in back together. if you build it in the first place you will already be partially familiar with getting it back together.

I think that building the quads is also part of the fun but if you really don't want to have to build a quad the Wizard could be a good starting point.

I also wouldn't bother with getting the 3 cell batteries go straight onto 4 cell Smile

That's just my take on this but im sure other people may disagree with me lol

Thanks for taking the time to give me your opinion! I think I will stick with an RTF or ARF quad. I trust the quad can and will sustain and if any wires or parts come loose, I can go back to UAVfutures' video to see where it went Tongue .


Regarding the batteries, I purposefully placed only one 3S battery in there just to start, the last thing I would want would be to learn how to pilot my drone on a 4S battery lol. (The crash damage would be even greater with a 4S battery)

Again, thanks for your recommendation! The more opinions I get, the better I can judge the situation myself Smile
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#7
(21-Dec-2016, 01:52 PM)oyvinla Wrote: Skip the 3s batteries imo. I got to many I don't use. Used them for about a month when I started. If you are concerned about too much power, you can just reduce max throttle in cleanflight/betaflight

Thanks for your quick response! I thought of skipping the 3S batteries when making my sort of kit (even though it's ARF Tongue ) but I purposefully put in the build just one 3S battery. This way I can learn how to pilot my drone at a more casual speed, of course I could follow your recommendation of reducing the max throttle in betaflight but I'd rather just have a different battery to learn, and then other, more powerful batteries to have fun!

Thanks again for your recommendation! I'll keep this in mind when actually buying the build!
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#8
(22-Dec-2016, 07:00 PM)halpmechoose Wrote: Regarding the batteries, I purposefully placed only one 3S battery in there just to start, the last thing I would want would be to learn how to pilot my drone on a 4S battery lol. (The crash damage would be even greater with a 4S battery)

Imho that's not a bad idea. There's worlds between flying with 3s and 4s.
4s doesn't feel like 1/3rd more power, it feels like DOUBLE the power. Cool
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#9
connecting the receiver is very simple it is actually "press bind on radio and powerup - it will go in bind mode. then get the receiver.. press the bind button and powerup" you are done...

as on how to connect it is dependent on do you want pwm/ppm/ibus/sbus - i'd go for ibus/sbus as of now

now all you need to know is where to solder the signal wire Smile
All the best
Grzesiek (Grisha/ Greg)

Curently flyable: Nox 5, Minimalist 112
Bench / in progres: fixing Nox 3,  Scrap
thinking about building: 450


Reply
#10
(23-Dec-2016, 10:19 AM)Grisha0 Wrote: connecting the receiver is very simple it is actually "press bind on radio and powerup - it will go in bind mode. then get the receiver.. press the bind button and powerup" you are done...

as on how to connect it is dependent on do you want pwm/ppm/ibus/sbus - i'd go for ibus/sbus as of now

now all you need to know is where to solder the signal wire Smile

Thanks once again for the response, but in case you were wondering, I'm going to purchase the FS-i6 controller with the receiver bundle (old version) as that one doesn't involve any soldering  Tongue . I wish it was easier hahaha.
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#11
you will endup in soldering stuff one way or the other.
ordering fs-i6 has its drawbacks,
1. it is old (less functionality)
2. it comes with bulky receiver (new version receiver is much smaller)
3. amount of soldering is the same Tongue
All the best
Grzesiek (Grisha/ Greg)

Curently flyable: Nox 5, Minimalist 112
Bench / in progres: fixing Nox 3,  Scrap
thinking about building: 450


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#12
(27-Dec-2016, 10:52 AM)Grisha0 Wrote: you will endup in soldering stuff one way or the other.
ordering fs-i6 has its drawbacks,
1. it is old (less functionality)
2. it comes with bulky receiver (new version receiver is much smaller)
3. amount of soldering is the same Tongue

Thanks for all the help in this topic Grisha! From what I saw in the tutorial attached in this thread there wasn't any soldering required for the older version.

By any chance do you have the receiver and a drone? It would be of great help if you could show me where it should be connected/soldered. The only reason why I wouldn't buy the new version would be because of the soldering (as I wouldn't know where to solder) but if someone showed be where I'm supposed to solder it together and where to connect everything I'd buy it in no time!


Thanks again for the continuous help! I didn't even know a new version of the transmitter existed!
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#13
now i have both 6b and the new receiver.. let me get some shots tomorrow... what FC you have there ? if you could snatch a photo i could think it out...from the description it is "generic f3" which is ... not specific...
All the best
Grzesiek (Grisha/ Greg)

Curently flyable: Nox 5, Minimalist 112
Bench / in progres: fixing Nox 3,  Scrap
thinking about building: 450


Reply
#14
(30-Dec-2016, 01:55 AM)Grisha0 Wrote: now i have both 6b and the new receiver.. let me get some shots tomorrow... what FC you have there ? if you could snatch a photo i could think it out...from the description it is "generic f3" which is ... not specific...

Thank you so much Grisha! On the banggood page it says that the flight controller is a "F3 6DOF". 

[Image: 94CIHscl.png]

When I search this up on google the first thing that appears is the following:

[Image: HGo84FJl.png]

Also, when you search F3 6DOF Flight Controller this is what appears:

[Image: 2dr16E1l.jpg]
[Image: sdhgyEsl.jpg]

Tell me if this helps in any way. It'd be better if banggood themselves were more specific  Tongue









In case you wanted to see what actually appears in google when you search "f3 6dof flight controller":
[Image: agalAwHl.jpg]




Once the drone arrives, I'll refer to your tutorial on how to connect the receiver  Rolleyes If I get lost somewhere in that process I'll private message you if that's not a problem  Tongue
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#15
Do you have any RC fixed wing or helicopter experience? From what I've gathered over the internet the x220 Wizard should make a great FIRST fpv racing quad. However, anything in the RC (outside of toys) realm there's a learning curb. I too purchased the x220 earlier this month and it's still in transit, so I decided to order the Eachine QX95 to learn from before I attempt to fly the x220. If I were to crash and I know I will it'll be relatively less expensive than the x220 to repair and it has the same FC so you could flash Betaflight onto and get familiar with that as well. My only multirotor experience has been with a Dromida Vista and a DJI Phantom 3 PRO that's far from a racing quad, so yeah going from that to a faster more agile quad I'll definitely be relearning so to speak when it comes to a racing quad.
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