Im having trouble searching online for an answer because I'm not sure how to ask the question properly.

My receiver is showing that it is bound via LED signals, but the sticks are dead. Everything else is working just fine except I cannot fly it because the quadcopter isn't getting signal from the transmitter.

My equipment:

Frsky Taranis Qx7 
BFight 210 210mm
Frsky d4r-II

Everything was working fine until I took a little tumble then all of a sudden the sticks were dead. The OSD won't show armed. Nothing. When the battery is plugged in there is a normal start up... motors wiggle FC beeps. Etc.
Now that I'm thinking about it, the reason it took a tumble was because the quadcopter randomly spun out mid air. I lost video feed and it landed probably 100 feet from where I lost the feed. I don't know if that helps. Thank you in advance for any help! Let me know if you need any more info.

The only logical answer is that your receiver is no longer connected to your flight controller. Or, that the jumper that puts the D4R-II into PPM mode isn't connected any more.

Check your connections. Things can get broken or dislodged in a crash.

(01-Oct-2017, 08:13 AM)unseen Wrote: The only logical answer is that your receiver is no longer connected to your flight controller. Or, that the jumper that puts the D4R-II into PPM mode isn't connected any more.

Check your connections. Things can get broken or dislodged in a crash.

I agree! The BFight comes with a little mini Frsky receiver. I thought this was the problem so I disconnected it and soldered on the d4r. Initially it seemed to have a similar problem right out of the box. After watching some YouTube it seems the BFight comes with 1 white wire connected from the SBUS to the camera. Supposedly it interferes with the receiver, so I disconnected it. The other problem the BFight210 seems to have is that the Frisky receiver it comes with is too wedged into the stack. I had to reposition it on the outside on top. The connections are sound. Could something have reset in Betaflight that would throw things off?? Could the FC be burnt out? (the FC starts up normally though...)

Did it ever work with the D4R-II?

If I'm not mistaken, the receiver that it comes with this quad is connected via S.BUS. Your D4R-II is talking PPM, so you'll need to configure Betaflight for PPM input.

Depending on the nature of the cloned Omnibus F3 flight controller, you may also find that there are some solder pads under where that white wire was (I have no idea why they would connect the S.BUS input to the camera, that makes no sense) that may need to be reconfigured for PPM input.

Edit: If you're running the latest Betaflight, you shouldn't need to mess with any solder pads.

(01-Oct-2017, 07:49 PM)unseen Wrote: Did it ever work with the D4R-II?

If I'm not mistaken, the receiver that it comes with this quad is connected via S.BUS. Your D4R-II is talking PPM, so you'll need to configure Betaflight for PPM input.

Depending on the nature of the cloned Omnibus F3 flight controller, you may also find that there are some solder pads under where that white wire was (I have no idea why they would connect the S.BUS input to the camera, that makes no sense) that may need to be reconfigured for PPM input.

Edit: If you're running the latest Betaflight, you shouldn't need to mess with any solder pads.

Right, so the BFight came with a little mini Frsky receiver already in it. After I disconnected that white wire it worked fine for a while, it would randomly loose control from time to time, but it worked. Then After the "incident" where it spun out of control all together and the sticks remained dead, the first thing I tried was replacing the little mini receiver with the d4r-ii. Currently, the d4r-ii is set up for Sbus. Setting a boot pin on the last two pins top and bottom allows for this. So, I don't think the PPM is the issue, however I do have a X8R receiver which obviously does SBUS without mod. I will try that and report back. Im willing to go thugh all the checks at this point. Otherwise, what? just throw it away and start over?

(02-Oct-2017, 02:36 PM)maadprops Wrote: Setting a boot pin on the last two pins top and bottom allows for this.

No, it doesn't.



You need to re-configure Betaflight and tell it you have a PPM receiver.

Your right, Thank You. So, instead of switching up Betaflight I just used an X8R with Sbus. Here is a video of whats going on. You can see the receiver is receiving a signal from the controller they are communicating.
The OSD just went out for some reason now too. Could the FC be fried? Would the camera, transmitter, and receiver still work if it was fried? also now the startup beeps went from beep beep beep beeeeeeep beeeeeep beep to beep beep beep. Like its missing half the startup tune. Im nervous to try and reflash it, I looked for OMNIBUS F3 Pro with OSD in the beta flight drop down but there is only Omnibus and OmnibusF4. It will not currently connect to Betaflight anymore...Thank you for sticking with me on this one, I'm just very frustrated.

That's not good. There should be at least one LED lit on the flight controller.

It's past my bed time now, so I'll have to pick this up with you tomorrow.

(02-Oct-2017, 10:09 PM)unseen Wrote: That's not good. There should be at least one LED lit on the flight controller.

It's past my bed time now, so I'll have to pick this up with you tomorrow.

So is there a way to check if the flight controller is burnt? aesthetically it looks fine.

Either the flight controller isn't getting power any more, or the 3.3V regulator that powers the CPU has died. If the ESCs only make the first three beeps, that means the ESCs are getting power but they are not seeing any throttle signal from the flight controller.

I'm puzzled how this flight controller is wired up. I've used a genuine Omnibus F3 Pro before and it got power from the battery via the current sensor. In your photos, there doesn't seem to be anything connected to the current sensor.  

Obviously, the flight controller is being powered from somewhere as your receiver is getting 5V from the flight controller's onboard 5V regulator. 

So, the fact that the LED just next to the shut resistor for the current sensor isn't lighting up says that the 3.3V regulator is not working. Is there anything on the flight controller getting hot when it is connected to the battery? Is there any kind of short circuit anywhere on the board? Going over everything with a magnifying glass and checking for stray wires or balls of solder would be a good idea.

(05-Oct-2017, 06:27 AM)unseen Wrote: Either the flight controller isn't getting power any more, or the 3.3V regulator that powers the CPU has died. If the ESCs only make the first three beeps, that means the ESCs are getting power but they are not seeing any throttle signal from the flight controller.

I'm puzzled how this flight controller is wired up. I've used a genuine Omnibus F3 Pro before and it got power from the battery via the current sensor. In your photos, there doesn't seem to be anything connected to the current sensor.  

Obviously, the flight controller is being powered from somewhere as your receiver is getting 5V from the flight controller's onboard 5V regulator. 

So, the fact that the LED just next to the shut resistor for the current sensor isn't lighting up says that the 3.3V regulator is not working. Is there anything on the flight controller getting hot when it is connected to the battery? Is there any kind of short circuit anywhere on the board? Going over everything with a magnifying glass and checking for stray wires or balls of solder would be a good idea.

well the pictures are not wanting to upload right now for some reason...but when I am able to I will. There is nothing that clearly looks burnt out. There is one small resistor looking part that has some black on it but its too difficult to tell if its a black stripe or if that half is burnt. Nothing gets hot on the FC, the VTX on the other hand gets sizzling hot. If I did need to just get a new FC what would be a great recommendation that would work with this setup?

the one orange resister looking thing in the top left has some black on it so I'm not sure if its burnt out or if its suppose to be there. But do you have any recommendations on a FC to replace it that will work with this set up? I generally seem to get the wrong one... preferably thats available on Amazon because I don't want to wait a month to get it in the air again...  Thank you again brotha!!!!!

The more I see of this, the less I understand how the people who put it together were thinking.

There is a current sensor on the flight controller, but it's not wired up so that it can be used, which seems kind of pointless.

The yellow components you referred to are not resistors, they are tantalum capacitors and if one of them had failed, fire is generally the result, so I don't think there's anything wrong with them. Your VTX will get very hot if there is no air flowing over it and when bench testing, you should disconnect the power from the VTX to stop it overheating.

Do you have a multimeter?

(09-Oct-2017, 07:53 AM)unseen Wrote: The more I see of this, the less I understand how the people who put it together were thinking.

There is a current sensor on the flight controller, but it's not wired up so that it can be used, which seems kind of pointless.

The yellow components you referred to are not resistors, they are tantalum capacitors and if one of them had failed, fire is generally the result, so I don't think there's anything wrong with them. Your VTX will get very hot if there is no air flowing over it and when bench testing, you should disconnect the power from the VTX to stop it overheating.

Do you have a multimeter?

No I do not :-( Ill order one, but in the mean time I'm going to order a new FC from Amazon. Do you have any suggestions for a great one that will work with this set up? I really want to get in the air again.

I see in the picture that there's actually a current sensor on the 4-in-1 ESC, so some flight controller based on the F4 processor with a built-in OSD like the Omnibus F4 would be good.

I can't offer recommendations for Amazon as they do not operate here in Sweden.

Hopefully you have a good quality temperature controlled soldering iron and the experience needed to replace the flight controller?